I am beginning to lay out my framing work plan for a kitchen/laundry addition (approx. 20×20). Foundation and floor joists are in place. Wife would like the ceiling detail to match 4×6 beams and 1×12 shiplap in our living room. Kitchen ceiling space is approx 16×18 of the overall room.
I had originally planned on placing 4x6x16 beams under the real ceiling joists and hanging the beams from joists on opposing walls before the drywall was installed. Beams are to be finished prior to installation then drywall would then be inserted in between the beams and carefully taped off. Ceiling is 9.5ft.
If we were to go with the shiplap idea, seems like the beams would have to be in place before the ceiling joists or roof is installed ? Am I thinking about this correctly. Then what happens to the drywall?
In our living room, shiplap is on top of the beams. Blown-in insulation is on top of shiplap and although this was done 40 years ago, I am not sure it is the most energy/fire efficient construction method.
Help always appreciated.
Replies
Well, if you are putting up a wooden ceiling, you might want some osb to provide a nailing surface. You might want to rabbet the beams to fit the ceiling boards, this will aid construction a bit.
Interesting - Do I understand the order to be:
1 - Frame entire room (including ceiling and roof)
2 - Drywall as usual
3 - Install plywood or strapping to ceiling over kitchen
4 - Blind nail shiplap to ceiling, leaving gaps for beams
5 - Install beams (with cut outs for shiplap)
6 - Stand back and admire handywork
2 - Drywall as usual
Only on walls, not on ceiling. I'd put the osb on the ceiling, then nail in the finish ceiling.
Is this a beaded board, a Tongue & Groove, or an actual lapped board ceiling? I'm assuming that it's a beaded board, since you said "blind nailing." The osb "sub ceiling" will give a better nailing surface for the finish ceiling. Strapping could introduce "waves."
The suggestion of a "flat" bridging to carry the beams, is good, too. I'd lag bolt down into them, though. Notching the edges with a rabbet makes for a cleaner edge, and not having to scribe the borads to fit. Shorter boards also makes for easier work over one's head, too.
I'd get the ceiling in, and at least prime it, then drywall, then beams. Unless, as is far too common, the beams take up too much room in the rest of the project. Then, I'd get them in the air, and DW around them. Good masking at each step will pay off in the end, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Thank you. That is a better plan. The boards will be tongue and groove.
I will see my inspector today and double check on the drywall requirement over the kitchen. I would like to eliminate it as you suggest.
With the price of OSB these days, the price of the ceiling substrate could out price the finished wall... go figure?
I used osb reflexively, I suppose you could use flake board, or the like--your goal is a nailing surface. Any requirement for DW over a kitchen is likely more about airtightness--so you might wind up caulking the joints for the inspector. But, given that you are going to wind up with two layers on the ceiling, it might just be ok as is.
Now, you do get a slight benefit, the subceiling makes a nice surface to markout for lighting & electrical. Remember that extra thickness when getting or specifying the ceiling electrical fixtures, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Spoke to the inspector yesterday as she signed off (and complimented) my rough plumbing (DWV and gas). She said, as you implied, that there is no requirement for drywall in the kitchen. I am surprised - with the increased risk from new residential/commercial type ranges and all...
She went on to joke that if I covered all the romex, she would sign off on the structure with exposed insulation - as long as the printing on the bats was not upside down. The only requirement for DW in a SFH she was aware of was to create a fire break if the structure had an attached garage. She was more than OK with the OSB substrate and tongue and groove ceiling as long as the ceiling dead load was not exceeded.
Thanks again for your help.
Edited 12/4/2003 4:02:14 PM ET by Dean
No problem. But then again, I'm not the one who will be blind nailing over my own head either (shoulders hurt just thinking about it . . . <g>)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Dean,
What is the spacing of the 4x6's? I would consider attaching a 2x4 flat ( laying on its 4 side) to the side of the modern 2x's you are using for floor joists. Then I would nail off the 4x6's from above through the 2x4. You might throw in some screws as well.
Curly
Restoring the past for the future.