Existing tile where it meets the bathtub, much black nasty growth.
Already dug out the caulk, grout, and disgusting stuff. Turns out that the old framing chisel with a coarse edge is the perfect tool.
What chemical can be used to kill whatever is left in there?
What is the very best quality caulk to use?
Thanks.
Replies
Jeff Clarke posted links to a whole range of mold killers in the Does Bleach kill mold thread. Very useful.
Dig it out perfectly clean and you shouldn't need to "kill" anything. Do wash the area well, first with detergent, then plain water, then make several passes with rubbing alcohol.
Re the type of caulk to use, there are two schools here: Those who feel that good quality silicone "bathtub caulk" is perfectly adequate in most cases, and those who feel it's an abomination. I'm of the former category, but I'll admit I haven't seen a wide variety of situations or tried a wide variety of caulks.
Most bathtub caulking jobs fail not due to the type of caulk used, but due to inadequate pre-cleaning (ALL old caulk must be removed), improper application (the caulk goes IN the joint, not ON it), and improper maintenance (soap scum will develop mildew even on the best of caulks).
Oxy-clean may be better than bleach. It certainly de-stank the washing machine that bleach didn't touch
Tell me more about de-stinking a washing machine. Mine is about 15 years old and has a musty/mildew smell. I've been assuming that it's outside of the tub since the tub basically gets washed with every load and should be clean.
Did you just add oxy-clean to the wash or did you dissassemble and clean inside the cabinet and outside the tub?
If it is inside the drum, then a load of hot water, a half cup of bleach, and detergent will kill what is causing the smell. Then run a load of cold water with nothing in it to rinse. Then an oxygen producing wash, like Oxy Clean. If that doesn't do it, then the smell is outside the tub.
When not in use the lid should be open to let the machine dry. Lots of people leave the lid closed for looks. But who looks anyway.
Thanks. And yes, the lid stays open when not in use.
My applaince repair guy told me to run a drain cleaner threw the cycle.
So I went to the dollar store got some cheap drain cleaner, dumped the whole bottle threw, ran a few cycles threw to rinse it out.
Smell gone, soap skum build up!!!
if there's a smell you probably have a load of fibres wrapped around the agitator stem, take the agitator off and "de-fur" the stem, if it's never been done you wouldn't believe the stuff that's in there!
Don't have a smell now!! Used the drain cleaner.
Now that I think about it, the smell went away shortly after I got divorced and the ex moved out!!!
1. Get some 12% hypochlorite--commercial-grade bleach. (Just for comparison sake, domestic laundry bleach is 3-4%.) You can usually find the 12% stuff at a restaurant wholesaler as it's often used to sterilise work surfaces in commercial kitchens. No mould spores I know about will live through a bath of that stuff.
2. Mulco Flextra or Supra (the two brands are the same product but Flextra is sold in big boxes; Supra is only sold to pros, is guaranteed air-pocket-free, and is made in more colours). The product is a thermoplastic caulking that outperforms anything I've ever seen. Guaranteed 20 years interior/exterior. Easy to apply; sticks to anything; resists mould and mildew very, very well.
It's a Canadian product that is not, AFAIK, sold in the US so if you're going to the Fest, you might wanna get ahold of one of the Canukian attendees and ask him to bring you down a tube of the colour you need.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Thanks everyone for the advice. It's one of those little jobs you don't mind doing as long as it's not very often. <G>
When you do the recaulk with silicone, you can run a few pieces of painters blue tape ~ 1/16 inch parallel to the joint. Run the bead and immediately pull off the tape for a clean joint that is in the joint and not around it.
One important point about silicone caulk: DO NOT use bleach products to clean the installed caulk. The bleach damages the surface of the caulk and makes it more prone to mold.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Catskinner, I saw another post by you concerning a house foundation technique. Would like to talk to you about it. (no reply link on the relevant post)
This thread was from 2009.
For killing whatever's left, try a bleach solution or a commercial mold and mildew remover. Make sure to ventilate well! For the caulk, look for a high-quality silicone-based one, which is more resistant to mold and mildew. Brands like GE Silicone II or DAP are good options. Just make sure the area is clean and dry before applying.
Try a mix of equal parts water and white vinegar. Spray it on, let it sit, then scrub with a brush. Rinse thoroughly afterward. As for caulk, go for a high-quality silicone one, like GE Silicone II or DAP Alex Plus. They're durable and mold-resistant.
The above post is BS
Alex plus?
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