I’m going to be pulling/leveling the concrete ( screeing ? ) over a 27′ length. I’m looking for the name of the blocks you put in to hold a steel pipe with. You put a steel galvanized 3/4″? pipe on some concrete blocks every 8-10′ and pull off the pipe when you are done so the is just a 3/4″ slot to fill. I’ve done it before but have forgotten the name. I could do it with 3/4″ wood material but would rather use the pipe method.
I went to a concrete supply house today and they didn’t know what i was talking about. Niether did I aperently.
I’m new in town and haven’t found suppliers that know me yet. i just need a little help. ;^)
Replies
Not sure about the blocks but for rebar the items are refered to as chairs. They're wire frames that elevate the steel within a pour. They make them for all sizes of rebar so I'm sure there woud be one for your pipe.
http://www.rebarchairs.com/html/wire_chairs.html
Edited 10/8/2007 4:40 pm by jagwah
I now what you talking about, I have some in my tool box but I never knew the name. thingofajig
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BOB is always right, ALL HAIL BOB
chairs are what hold it, but I would never use a 3/4" pipe. We use 2", some guys use 1-1/2"
The 3/4" will lift and sag and float and bounce around without supporting the screed
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I'm remembering from a few years back. I think we used 3/4" but with more support. Anyway, it's been a while. I don't want to buy pipe for one pour. I'm cheap.
I re-read my post and it isn't real clear. The pipes would be placed every 8-10 feet so the ends of my straight 2x4 would reach them. The pipes would be supported every couple of feet.
The nice thing about the 3/4" is that when you pull it out it leaves very little area to fill back in with mud.
I'm wondering if i can do the pour myself if I get a pumper. The slab is about 8 1/2' by 27'. I'd just scree it in 8'-10' sections. I don't know anybody who could help.
Edited 10/8/2007 9:11 pm ET by popawheelie
You are where?
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I'm in Ft Collins, CO. We've only been here three months. I'm leary of help that doesn't have experience. I wrecked a slab once because I hired help that didn't know what to do. He just froze up on me. Thank God the client didn't take action against me. It was a botched pour.
I should have had good help and at least two guys. Stupid.
I went down and got the permit today. I tried to pick the brain of the plan checker? guy but he kept saying the plans were o.k. and go with that.
Edited 10/8/2007 9:21 pm ET by popawheelie
ask the dispatcher at batch plant if he knows who is slow right now
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
In Los angeles there was a pool of finishers that you could call. I worked on a large slab with two of them. Top notch.
I will ask the dispatcher. Good idea.
problem with the block, your subgrade would have to be perfect or it affect your finish grade. blocks are not adjustable.BOB is always right, ALL HAIL BOB
I use something like this, too dark to go out and dig out of tool box. I drive a 8 inch long piece of electrical conduit 1/2 into the ground and then set these chair. after I pull I drive the conduit down and keep the chair
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BOB is always right, ALL HAIL BOB
My concrete guy uses "screed hooks" that attach to steel stakes, and then lengths of steel plate ~ 1/2" x 3" x 10' as screeds. No pipe. They are set in the pour and you have to know how to get them out and fill the holes.
Go here and go about 1/2 of the way down to the cast iron screed hooks. That's them.
http://www.dhcsupplies.com/concrete/conmiscellaneous.htm
I would use 2x4 before I'd use pipe.
Popa, you are trying to describe a method of setting temporary SCREED RAILS.
I'm guessing you have used a system where they lay 3/4" galvanized pipes as rails and the pipes are set on some form of concrete block that can be left in the concrete. After screeding, you pull the pipes up and have to fill in the mud.
I've used that system when doing mudbases inside the house for tile substrate.
I've never seen anyone use the blocks that you are trying to describe.
Or, I might be way out in left field and you are trying to decribe something else.
jim
fka (formerly known as) blue
Jim, that is what I'm trying to desribe. They have to be on concrete blocks or something you can leave in the pour that rests on the ground.
I think the reason they are used is because they are cheap and that is why i like them.
They probably used the old style bricks with the rounded relief in the back. They probably just pack a little sand under the brick to bring it up to the right height.
jimfka (formerly known as) blue
I found these. http://www.rebarchairs.com/html/concrete_spacers.html
The concave area on top would keep a bar on it. I'd set them high and pound them down to where I wanted them with a rubber mallet. That way they would be set pretty well height wise. You'd have to be carefull not to knock them over during the pour.