I am making solid surface bath vanity top with undermount sink. I am doubling the edge (surface to surface) to 1″ thickness and will need to double up where the sink mount anchors will go. I was going to buy the proprietory glue and rent the gun, but thinking about it, why do I have to use their glue? It’s just that I assume there probably is a rental period and there is the trip there and another trip to return the gun. I don’t need a lot of glue, either. I also don’t have to join any edge to edge pieces. I need to glue the pieces (surface to surface) to form the thicker edge and reinforcing pieces that will never see the light. In this case, can I use clear epoxy? Did anybody try this? Without using the manufacturer’s glue, just how much of the joint line shows? In fact, I plan to make a test piece using gel superglue I already have, but if test works well, I plan to use those 2 parts epoxy that comes in double syringe. Thank you in advance for any opinion.
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Replies
k,
We changed out some door casings in a bath. The top was corian. In doing so we needed to scab in a small pc on the tops edge and the splash. I used 2P10 from fastcap and it held, very minimal glue line, don't believe it's failed.
For the whole thickened edge.......
beats me. Might work. Try it on the faucet buildup-see how it looks from the backside. To me, epoxy would be a thicker glue line.
Thank you for the reply. I will search for 2p10 from fastcap. You mention doubling up at the faucet. Do you mean the faucet mounts should be more than 1/2" thick? I did not consider this point. I was just going to mount the faucets on the 1/2" solid surface, although now I think about it, even the formica counters are 3/4" thick.
Do you mean that the usual mounting methods such as nuts will not thread to 1/2"? I did consider that 1/2" solid surface may break if someone grabbed at the faucet. Thank you.
Do you mean that the usual mounting methods such as nuts will not thread to 1/2"? I did consider that 1/2" solid surface may break if someone grabbed at the faucet.
No, I'm sorry......I meant on the back, but not because of the faucet. I see you mentioned buildup around the sink and just plain blew it in my response.
I would try it where it won't show. I've glued pvc trim, some corian pcs like I mentioned and wood. I was amazed at the holding power.
2P10 is Fastcaps form of "crazy glue". Many woodworking suppiers have their own too. What you have might be just fine.
Give it a test run. No use wasting your time if it won't work the way you want it to.
Or, find a corian fabber and "borrow" some of the real thing.
Best of luck.
Find a corian installer and buy some glue from him. I've even bought it at a counter-top manufacturer.
I know super-glue doesn't work well...
They have some adhesive on ebay for about 10-15 bucks a tube delivered....half price at least compared to my local supplier. I've never matched the color up perfectly, but the seams I had were satisfactory to me (barely disernable) I didn't use the gun either. I just squirted out equal porportions,(10/1) mixed and used a putty knife to apply. I'm happy with the results
Thank you. That is just what I thought, except the supplier put the fear of god in me about mixing the glue in your way and ending up with a mess. Did you find the same brand glue as your solid top or did you just use any glue for the solid surface? Is solid surface adhesive universal? Mine is Formica. Thank you.
I don't know about the
I don't know about the universal traits of any adhesive, but I used what was available. I was never sure of the manufacturer of my counter top.
We did some genaric Corian counters for a restaurant 15 years ago and mixed and matched at least 4 types of adhesive. Edge build up only-- no seams. Still perfect today
Thank you for the reply. I did think the superglue joint may be too brittle. I thought any epoxy that may give a little may work. I will do more research on this point. Thank you.
Yeah, never use "super glue" for anything you want to be permanent. Except in certain special cases it's too brittle and prone to chemical breakdown to be trusted.
k1c;
Your expoy idea will work. Depending on the color of the solid surface, I would tint the epoxy to get a color match. Less tint is better, just enough to fool the eye.
Kowboy
Thank you all for the replies. I made a test piece with superglue gel. Thin film of glue and clamp for 1/2 day. The test was to hold one piece with plier and smash down on the other. The bond held. I really had no doubt the superglue would hold, but wanted to see if the bond will break at the seam.
However, I plan to use epoxy that has some flex, and mix in some paint tint. Again, thank you.