I’m replacing an old under-counter plywood cutting board, and thinking of making a new one out of solid surface material. I’ve never worked with solid-surface material before, so I have a few questions:
1. Is solid surface strong enough to withstand weight/pressure when it’s only supported at one end? (This board will be installed under a countertop, and may be used for cutting, bread kneading, etc.) Approximate dimensions 16″ wide by 23″ long (long being the distance from the edge of the counter to the tip of the cutting board).
2. What thickness(es) is solid surface material? I’m limited to 5/8″ due to clearance needed for the board to pass the lip of the tiled countertop. The old plywood board was 3/4″, and I was extremely lucky that I was able to force it out without cracking the tile or grout joints.
3. What is the best source of material for this? I’ve contacted two local solid-surface fabricators, and both said they don’t do small pieces. I’m thinking that what I need is essentially a “scrap”, maybe from a sink cutout or from a countertop that was returned for whatever reason. Any ideas?
4. Are there any other materials I should consider besides solid-surface? I’ve thought about laminate, but it’s typically adhered to a 3/4″ substrate, which is too thick as mentioned above. I suppose I could do laminate over 1/2″ UL for stiffness, but I’m not crazy about the idea. Solid-surface just seems like the ideal material – easy to clean, easy to mill, etc…
Edit – forgot to mention that I’m trying to keep costs down on this. It’s for my M&FIL. They would spend the money if needed, but if I can get a scrap for free or close, I’d rather do that. I say I’m thrifty, DW says I’m cheap…
TIA
Edited 3/26/2006 2:01 pm by torn
Replies
If you Google for it, you will find it. There is a biz near Buffalo, NY, that apparently is licensed by Dupont to sell small pieces up to some maximum size.
Not big enough for countertops, of course. That would be like dealing dirt to their licencees who fabricate. This biz is selling Corian pieces to hobbyists, furniture makers, etc.
They have a website, do biz by e commerce, and ship everywhere.
Thanks, Gene. I had checked eBay earlier, and didn't find much, but apparently I didn't use the right keywords. I tried again a few minutes ago and came up with some decent results. Still not sure about the strength of the material, though - any thoughts?
You should be able to get big enough pieces from local fabricators also.But you still pay.The place that I got some from charged by the sq ft. But IIRC the smaller pieces where less per sq ft.What I got was 1/2".
As an idea, why not make a slide out tray that "captures" a white plastic cutting board that is purchased in any supermarket or housewares section of many stores. Buy a dozen of the large sized boards that have a built in anti bacterial agent in them. Cut them all to size. You can route a groove around the surface perimeter to catch liquids.
This way the board is removeable for washing and transport of the cuttings.
A dozen boards will last a very long time. Readily available, can be cut, and inexpensive.
Phil,I like this idea, and I'll remember it in the future. For this job, the board will be used primarily as a dough board, so it needs to be smooth. Most of the plastic cutting boards I've seen are pebbled or textured somehow, which is great for their intended use.The other restriction that is more of a problem is the thickness of this assembly. I'm not sure how I would manage to install a track or carriage that would hold the board and be at or under 5/8" total thickness. The lip of the tiled countertop comes down just far enough that the old 3/4" ply cutting board was basically locked in; I had to force it out and luckily didn't deflect the countertop enough to crack any grout lines or tiles...The concept is a keeper - thanks!
most all solid surfacing material is 1/2" thick. I would think you could find a fabrication shop in your area that would get your some scraps...although when I was in the business, we kept a large piece from each job and catalogued it for any future repairs or color matching...so some shops may be unwilling to part with it
as far as strenght, up to 16" should be strong enough to handle what you are looking to do...just make sure to don't drill directly into it with screws, but to put in a snug plastic plug and drill into the plug...and don't use brad point drill tips...any thing like that could add a stress point.
I would guess your going to spend at least $25 for a scrap piece....
(you did not hear this from me, but you could drive by their dumpster late at night and check for any thrown scraps....)
knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain
http://www.cobrajem.com
Go back to the solid surface shops. Whip out $25.00 cash and say, "I need a 16" x23" piece of acrylic solid surface and I'm not fussy about the color." You'll get your material.
I've visited many solid surface shops across the country and every one, without exception, has a wall full of drops about the size you need.
It is plenty strong enough for your application.
Personally, I like my knives to stay sharp, so I would be leery of cutting on solid surface material. I know it's basically plastic but it's also abrasive. I'll stick to my big maple boards and the smaller polyethylene one I have.
Zodiac, while the best looking series of this material, IMO, has actual quartz chips in it so that wouldn't even be an option for me.
I am a woodworker who makes and sells cutting boards and a cook.
Colid surface is NOT a cood cutting board - it will dull the blade of a good knife quickly.
If you want to replace the existing board, make one from rock maple - it is the best material by far for a cutting board.
Not all solid surface materials are =
I agree with the maple
But I have squared up some corion & wilsonart plastic sink cut outs & gave them away as cutting boards.
I have abused my Henckels & Sabatier on just about everything I didn't notice any dulling in paticular when cutting on corion.
Not to highjack the thread but, quick question on sharpening in your opinion what's a good idiot proof sharpener?
I have a steel & yes I actually know how to use it, but when it was neglected for too long I use a Gatco sharpener Lanski style knock off I'm sure of.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
You can go 2 ways. aA1000 grit water stone or a 1200 diamond stone , both from LEE VALLEY. Nice company to deal with. Both stones will put a factory edge on all of your knives. The diamond stone is cleaner and requires almost no care, but is not cheap (approx $100.00 Canadian). The water stone will need some care and may be more trouble than worth for you. but is the cheapst ($ approx 50.00 Canadian). Diamond will last for many years and can be just throwen in a drawer after rinsing off under a tap.Water stone is brittle and messy. Up to you.You need approx a 30 degree angle on the blade.
Tom B
Edited 3/26/2006 7:14 pm ET by TomB
I have stones & a couple of diamond ones as well
I was looking more for idiot proof than free handing it.
I free hand with a steel - I grew up with that being one of my chores every other day.
My gatco locks the blade in then has guide holes for the different angles---- I was just curious if there was a better system out there.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
Thanks for your comments and suggestions thus far, guys. My wife just told me that her mom will use this board mostly for rolling out dough, so dulling knives shouldn't be much of an issue. (And if you saw her knife drawer, you'd know that dull knives have never bothered her anyway LOL ;-)Agree that the maple would be an excellent choice, both for cutting and for rolling dough; maybe I'll look into that. If I could get some 5/8" maple and do up a laminated board...that might be nice...would 5/8" maple have the strength I'm looking for? I think it probably would, but I'd like another opinion before I spend the $$ for it.My sharpening procedure depends on how bad the edge is. If it's really bad, I start with a belt sander laid on it's back, running at slow speed. Once I have the edge cut back, knicks and/or bent tips ground out, then I'll move to whetstones or diamond stones, moving to progressively finer grits, and then I'll finish with a steel.Touch ups are usually just a diamond stone or whetstone; I use a steel every two or three times I use each of my nice (Henckels) knives...
2 things
1 5/8" maple is plenty strong.
2 rolling out dough yeah maple will work but the pros use stone. It stays cooler I'm not a pastry chef so I'm not gonna stick my foot in my mouth & give ya all the reasons why they prefer stone.
My mom uses a chunk of marble, my sister got quartz counters, My other sister has a chunk of granite, I put soapstone counters in my kitchen so I just use the counter.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
for dough, I like marble or granite - the thicker the better. - The coolness of the stone is bettter for rolling out dough.
For the cutting board, 5/8 is indees thick enough, but if you have it, and can edge grain, 1" is a nice solid board. Make sure it is not too wide to fit in the sink for cleaning. If you have a single basin sink, I would make one large enough to fit in it flat - makes cleaning and sanitizing easier.
FYI the only finish you need is mineral oil - get it at the pharmacy. and to sanitize, once a month make up a gallon of water with 1tsp of bleach and wipe down the board, let dry and then wipe down with a paper towel and mineral oil.
To all that suggested stone:Being that this is a pullout board that will be essentially unsupported for all of it's approx 23 inches, I would think that 5/8" thick stone would not be a good choice (would snap off when someone rolls out dough). Am I right, or am I underestimating stone's strength? (by stone, I'm being general - I know different stones have different strengths, but I'm not sure any would be good in this application...)??
I don't know what thickness that it comes in but I think that quartz composite would be perfect.It has the mass and density of stone, but being an engineered composite it won't have any structural flaws. But I have no idea of the strength, but it would probably be strong enough.You will want to get it cut to finished size and the edges smothed as it needs stone working tools.Silestone and Zodiac are two common brands.
thanks, Bill - I'll look into these...
If she's rolling out dough or makes candy then you want marble or granite.
for kitchen knives, I like the 120 I have, if I were to replace it, I might consider the 130
http://www.chefschoice.com/page2a.html
you might be better going to yur local plastics place and getting 1/2 white poly stuff that used in all commercial kitchens... or go to a commercil kitchen supply... 20 x 20 x 1/2" last time i got one was maybe $20
and it'll save your knives
p