Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 1999 02:07am | #1

   *
   Robert:

   "Sounds" like you pretty much got it covered. By the way, what is "resilient channel"

   Also, here is a link that may be a bit of help:

   http://www.askthebuilder.com/cgi-bin/bulletin?071:00066

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 1999 11:51am | #2

   *Hey Matt, thanks for the askthebuilder site tip.He had an informative bulletin on sound deadening.The resilient channel is a product that you attach to the joists, or wall studs to create a1/2" airspace btw. drywall and framing member.It is made of sheet metal and comes in 12'lengths. Hard to describe exactly what it lookslike, you could inquire at your local H.D. etc.I hope it'll help out, my three year old is feisty!

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 02:43am | #3

   *Robert:Actually, I picked some of what I call metal firring strips up at an commercial building supply house today. When I called them on the phone they described them as "hat shaped".. and called them 7/8" firring channel. The 7/8" dimension is the height in the below diagram._/-_ nice art work, hu!I expected it to have some holes in it to make it easier to attach to wood - I'm using it for a sound barrier just as you are. Wonder if I can shoot it to the wall with a nail gun? How did you attach yours. While I was there I picked up some of those drill bit tiped screws.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 07:53am | #4

   *Matt,Hi. Around here (NYC area) that material is called hat channel, metal firring, or Chicago bar ( Anyone know where that name comes from?) and yes, you can nail through the flanges with a gun. Richard Max

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 07:46am | #5

   *Actually guys, the resilient channel is not to create an air space but is properly installed perpendicular to the joists, and thereby the contact of the drywall to the joists is only at the cross points where the channel is attached to the joists. You see the drywall acts like a drum surface-any movement of the joists is transfered to the drywall and is a big surface, hence big sound transfere. There is a good sound isolation information at the Western Wood Products Association wood frame design bulletin. They have a web site-don't remember address though.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 09:13am | #6

   *Correct on the way resilient channel works. Also caulk ALL of the gaps in the gyp board before taping. There is an acoustical caulking but I have used acrylic with good results. Caulk around each and every electrical box where it meets the gyp board. Caulk along the base plate. Don't forget that electrical boxes must be mounted farther out due to the channel. Use 3" wide filler strips of gyp board along the base plate to provide a backer for the wall board and base trim.The R-30 is overkill. It reportedly does no better than R-11 when it comes to sound attenuation. Make sure that when you screw the gyp board to the channel that your screws are short enough to not touch your joists or studs. And use Type S (fine thread) screws going into the channel.If you have forced air heat sound is going to travel through the ductwork. Supply plumbing should be installed in resilient (vinyl) mounts. DWV noise depends on materials used. With your age house you probably have the quietest by default (cast iron) PVC is the noisiest and can also squeak as it expands/contracts when hot water flows through it.Well, all that really does a better job of keeping sound IN your basement apartment rather than OUT. Footfalls on hard surfaces, dropped toys on tile floors, etc. seem to sound like you (your son) are in the same room. I think the sound produced when striking a component must move differently between rooms (floors) than say a voice or TV being on in the room. So, rent the basement to a tenant with a 3 year old...no complaints! Thor