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   Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 03:58am | #1

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   Suggest an acoustical tile ceiling with sound attenuation batts above the tile. You can try gyp on RC-1 channel or a suspended channel-iron/hat channel system w/gyp, but nothin's gonna cut down the sound like an acoustic ceiling. If you just got to have a gyp ceiling, check out the Gypsum Association's Fire Resistance Design Manual. It gives fire rating and STC data for most common wall and ceiling/floor assembly designs.

   Whatever you choose, remember that most sound transmissions come around, not thru, the partition. Be generous with the acoustic caulk.

   Bill

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   Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 01:33pm | #2

   *Karl:I used the "Search" button here at BT and searching for "soundproofing" gave me a lot of hits. Give it a try.

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   Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 02:20pm | #3

   *karl - Remember to keep sound transmission and sound absorption separate in your mind. The acoustic tile will make things more bearable in the shop but will do little to help transmission through the floor. Also, tile will get dirty/dusty and is harder to clean than a smooth surface. Mineral fiber batts help a lot but nothing works better than mass. The thickest gypsum board you can conceive of hanging is my suggestion. Resilient channel is a good idea too. What about doing a suspended drywall ceiling? There are several companies making these components. Also, watch out for gaps - a 1/16" gap can defeat the whole scheme. For instance, you could seal the gypsum board joints together with sealant or fill with patching plaster - a bit tedious but it all adds up.Jeff

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   Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 06:02pm | #4

   *Well, where I live, if I put in a ceiling in my basement workshop, then it becomes "finished space" subject to a reassessment of taxes. It also means that I would have to get a permit for all of the work I've put into the shop because it would then constitute a "change of use" when it became finshed. I don't know if the same rules would apply where you live, but it's worth checking out. Some additional suggestions: in my home, the most effective sound proofing turned out to be a thicker carpet and premium underpad on the first floor. I also made up some theatre flats and a couple of "Chinese" screens and use them to baffle noise. The theatre flats (just a big light frame with material stretched over it, like a painting canvas, and sitting on a couple of trestle feet) not only helped with containing noise in the workshop, they reduced the noise in the workshop. Now that I've figured them out, I also use them to localize sawdust/chips to just one area of the shop during a lot of operations.

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   Guest_ | Sep 17, 2000 09:55pm | #6

   *I agree that you must seal the cracks. The best stuff to use is a Dap latex foam sealant. Unlike the polyurethane products out there that dry hard the Dap latex squishes down next to nothing when necessary. I use it around all window and door crevices in a new home. Unlike the other products out there this stuff will not move framing. The disadvantage is that it will not cure well below 60 degrees. It is okay but it is soft compared to when it is applied on a hot day.

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   karl_r_miller | Sep 17, 2000 09:55pm | #5

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   I am in the process of setting up a new workshop in the basement and would like to prevent as much sound transmission of equipment to the upstairs as possible. any ideas for construction practice on the ceiling ? i have already come up with a double wall system for the partioning wall in the basement - its the ceiling Im concerned about - is there a way to prevent 90dB from resonating through the ceiling/ upstairs floor, and if so how do you construct it ?? thanks