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OK. Usually I overbuild and don’t worry about it. But because of the “crawlspace entrance” I couldn’t put a post where I normally would. So the question: is the way I built it sufficient? (see drawing). The 2×6 joists sit on top of the 2×10’s. The woman using the chair looks pretty big and it’s an electric chair, so I figure 400 pounds at least.
And no, I did not post this just to show off my draftsmanship (I know some will wonder).
Thanks
Rich Beckman
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Replies
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I assume, since you use the word 'built', it is too late to go back and change anything. I would like to have seen a 2x10 where the red 2x6 is. Failing that, at least putting a couple pieces of all-thread through at the green marks would help to hold it together. Running the all-thread all the way through would be even better.
Use 3/4 all-thread, nylocks and fender washers, (doubled, then a standard washer). Put 2x6 blocking right beside the all-thread, between each joist on the longer run. And if you run it all the way through, put washers and nuts outside the 2 2x6's in the middle there anyway. (Where the red one is.)
*Rich,I think you built it plenty strong. Hell, your joist spacings appear to be less than 12" OC and the tie-in with the bolts is for a span of only 30" long, so where's it gonna go? One 3/8 dia. bolt can handle a shear load in excess of 400lbs; and you had 4 of them in place.Would not worry. Blocking underneath as suggested by Luka would certainly stiffen things up a bit; not a bad idea. I kinda disagree with using the all-thread suggestion; IMHB I think it would be a waste of time in this particular application. (especially since the dimensions of this ramp is so small.) You did install toe-kick boards, mid rails and handrails? If not, go back and do so, as this is code required.Nice job.Davo.
*Davo,Yes, the toe-kick boards (or curbs), mid rails and handrails are installed. All nicely ADA. The part in the drawing is only a small part of the ramp which runs about 48 feet all told. Only waiting for some nice weather to apply a non-slip surface.I've routinely run six foot sections using 2x6's (I've built quite a few of these now) and have never blocked. There has never been a problem.Rich Beckman
*Rich - Did you bolt that short doubler 2X6 to the last 5 foot long joist? Is that what I see there? - Jim
*Yes.Rich Beckman
*Luka,Too late to change anything? Yes and no. I have to say that when I first started reading your post, you had me going....."red 2x6"???? What red 2x6? My drawing is black and white! "green marks"????? What the hell...?????? Oh! He has his own drawing! Nice colors.Thanks for your thoughts...I'm waiting for concensus (HA!)Rich Beckman
*Well, do you think maybe you are overloading that one joist by hanging all those little guys on it? Is there a post under there you're not showing in the drawing?
*Yes, that is my concern. It feels solid enough (I only weigh 160), but when I look at it I don't think it looks strong enough (but appearences can be deceiving). I only weigh 160. There is no post underneath that I am not showing.Rich Beckman
*Can you get back under there and double it from the back side, or maybe add a post right at the point that doubler starts?
*I know I'm not an engineer, but this is my take on it, and the why and wherefore of my earlier suggestion.
*OK. Well I have three votes and doing something to strengthen the ramp wins two to one. Luka, your idea makes some sense to me, but adding a post is possible and (to my mind) easier (and cheaper!) than trying to put the all thread in. I can't put a post in the corner, but I can get one underneath at the halfway point of the doubled joist.So that's what I'll do. Thank-you Luka, Davo, and Jim.Rich Beckman
*Putting a post in there is a much more better solution.b : )I gave the solution I did because I was under the impression you couldn't put a post there. And yer welcome.
*Anytime, Rich. Sorry I couldn't have said different.
*Hi Rich,The way I first read your question, I didn't think you had room to put a post underneath.....and I still think what you originally did was "A" OK....but a little insurance goes a long way...so if you can fit a post underneath that joist, then I agree with Jim and Luka and say; "Go for it!"Davo.
*Yeah, agree with me all over the place, but when I need the support for me, where are you? In Luka's corner!Oh well, as long as you're sorry....Rich Beckman
*Just to be clear. If I had made it sound real easy to reinforce it, then people would have said "If it's so easy, just do it!" and I wouldn't have gotten the nice discussion of whether or not it is strong enough. In other words, I didn't want to prejudice the jury!If I had been able to do, I would have put a post where the blue post is in this drawing. And then I would have run a 2 x 6 (8?)(10?)(whatever I had handy) where the red 2 x is (b underthe joists, bolted to the posts). But the position where the blue is isn't available, so I will stick one under the double joist, where the green is.Hope this makes sense...Thanks everyone!I double posted! ARRGGH! Hence the delete.Rich Beckman
*Rich,I wonder why no one suggested taking out that short 2x6 and replacing it with a 2x6 the same length as the last joist, supported on both ends by the 2x10? Nail or bolt the two together and you now have a good header to hang the perpendicular short joists from and no need of a post. If you still thought you had a problem with the span (it's only five feet) then the last joist and the sistered member could be made of 2x8 material and notched down to fit over the carrying 2x10's.And if you are still wanting overkill, make it a triple or a flitch beam with a length of steel plate sandwiched.
*Ralph,I'm sure one reason no one suggested that is because it was already built. The question is, why didn't I think of it!!! If the situation ever arises in the future, that's what I'll do. Thanks.Rich Beckman
*where angels fear to tred... what me worry ?rich the 4x4 original post asre supporting the 2x10's , right /and the 2x6 bears on teh 2x10's right ?so the 2x6 is spanning less than 5' at it centeryou could have doubled teh 2x6 if you felt you wanted some extra support.. but all you needed was to thru bolt the long 2x6 to teh short 2x6 .. just as you did...now if teh 4x4's are NOT supporting teh 2x10's then forget everything i just said ...b but hey, whadda i no ?
*Mike,Yes, the 2x10's are through bolted to the 4x4's with two 3/8" bolts at each end.Where were you when I needed you? Now that I've gone back and stuck another post underneath you show up! Although that still seems to leave the vote at 3-2 in favor of adding a bit.Still, it's nice to know that I didn't do too badly with what I did.Thanks,Rich Beckman
*Another thought. Did you cough up the extra nickle for galvanized hardware or just grab the bolts out of the bin on the top shelf?I know some deck builders who can't understand why the perfectly maintained, regularly cleaned and recoated PT deck dropped off the bolts after a few years.
*I confess that I have used other hardware in the past, I do use galvanized now. Of course, most of the ramps I build are not used for a long enough period of time for that to matter.Rich Beckman
*sorry , rich, i thought it was obvious.. then when i went back , i figgered it wasn't so obvious...that's my old A&B rule biting me again..if you think the obvious answer is A...the person you're talking to thinks it's B... since it is obvious to each of you .. the fact that you are both thinking of different solutions never comes up until you see the finished product....this has always been the biggest source of disagreement between me and my guys.b ...ALWAYS state the OBVIOUS
*Mike,I like it. "ALWAYS state the OBVIOUS" I have tried to practice it myself, but it is hard to learn how to be aware of all the things you are "aware" of so you can state it!If that made sense....Rich Beckman
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OK. Usually I overbuild and don't worry about it. But because of the "crawlspace entrance" I couldn't put a post where I normally would. So the question: is the way I built it sufficient? (see drawing). The 2x6 joists sit on top of the 2x10's. The woman using the chair looks pretty big and it's an electric chair, so I figure 400 pounds at least.
And no, I did not post this just to show off my draftsmanship (I know some will wonder).
Thanks
Rich Beckman