I need a stacked-head dado cutter for occasional use on my table saw at home. Anyone care to recommend one or any particular features that I should look for?
Thanks in advance.
I need a stacked-head dado cutter for occasional use on my table saw at home. Anyone care to recommend one or any particular features that I should look for?
Thanks in advance.
The Mr. Cool DIY minisplit system comes with precharged line sets that don't require special training to install.
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Replies
I'll give you a few answers for your ponderance......
1 -- maybe you'd like to post this question over at Knots -- the woodworking forum run by the same folks as this one.
2 -- If you can afford it, get a dado set that produces a truly flat-bottomed cut. Most of them don't, and the ones that do are more expensive. If the ad, or catalog listing, or package does not specifically say that it produces truly flat-bottom cuts, then assume it does not.
3 -- To avoid question #2 altogether, and to avoid the time involved with changing setups on your table saw, you might consider spending about the same amount of money on router bits. Unless you work with custom-milled wood which is of odd thickness, a bit is available for anything you'll need to dado. If you do use custom thicknesses, then perhaps the stacked set is the better idea.
4 -- I have had reasonably good luck woth both blades and bits from Freud -- and their stuff in general is not too pricey. (I have no association with them or their dealers.)
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
I have a frued stack set that I got maybe 10 years ago, used it half a dozen times. I think it's 8" anti-kickback, but it's hard to tell from all the dust on the case.
Which leads me to me point ... unde what circumstances would you need a dado blade rather than a router?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
unde what circumstances would you need a dado blade rather than a router?
Actually, I can't think of any -- except there can be situations in which the stacked set might be easier than setting up for a router cut. Mostly if the woodworker has not used the router for dado's in the past, and doesn't have a jig made.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Dado blade wins hands down anytime a non-standard dado width is required. Also is much faster for multiples work, ie. set once and go to it instead of rejigging each cut or rejigging twice for multiple passes each nonstandard width cut.
Seems like a Dino EZCut would solve that problem.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
What's a Dino EZCut? Google gives me nothing.
Search for thread 81473 and start reading. It gets mentioned in the second post. I got the name a little wrong, but you'll get the idea.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks, I found it.Even that jig has to be set on every board. TS fence gets set once, run as many boards as you like at any width you like. Router has its place, but so does a good dado blade.
I have had the Forrest for a few years and like it.
The table saw seems a better way to go for dado work
if you have more than just a small job.
"under what circumstances would you need a dado blade rather than a router?"
Need? Probably never. Which leads to the question: Under what circumstances do you *need* a router rather than hand tools?
It really almost allways comes down to whatever is easier for the task at hand. I can think of a lot of examples where it's easier to use a dado blade. For example, when building a kitchen full of cabinets with fixed shelves and/or bottoms let into dados -- lots of cuts, not necessarily stock router bit width. For me, it's way easier to set up the dado on the TS and cut them all at the same time.
Also, I like cutting deep grooves with a dado where I can do it in one pass and the DC takes care of most of the dust. The router takes several passes, can't go as deep, is slower and, on my setup anyway, it makes a much bigger mess.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks to all, great feedback. You guys brought up some issues that I hadn't thought of such as an even groove bottom and kickback.
The reason I was leaning towards using a dado instead of my router is that I have a decent table saw with a nice fence system and dust collection. I don't now have a decent router table and my router is not the greatest. I've had trouble in the past with the bit "lifting" up out of the collet and wrecking my work. I do sometimes end up doing custom thickness pieces and I'm more comfortable using a table saw. On the other hand it would be faster setting up a router than the TS (I think) and this might be a good time to consider upgrading my router. I'm always looking for reasons to buy new tools.
semipro
I have the Freud 508 and it does a very good job. At work we have the Forrest dado king and it does a better job but it also cost a bit more.
You cant go wrong with either one.
The Freud 208 is a fairly cheap dado cutter and no where near as good as the 508 - FYI
Doug
It depends on what your going to use it for. general dadoing for case work I would get a fores or frued or systematic. But I wouldnt get the 8". If all your going to use it for is like I said case work then get a 6" it can go 3/4 x3/8 all day long and wider. The difference between the 8" and 6" is debth of cut ad cost.
View Image "We fight not to enslave ,but to set free"
Thomas Paine
I love my Forrest - http://www.forrestsawblades.com/dado.htm. Best in the world.
Of course!
Forrest
Without looking it up, I think I've seen a magazine or two that rated the Freud 508 as being the best. But there were a few the ranked high, including the Forrest Dado King, and the Freud Dial-a-width. I haven't bought a dado set yet, but I could use one soon...looking forward to more replies.
Freud 8" 508. Does great clean flat-bottom cuts in all veneer ply and melamine.
Forrest
Systimatic
Freud
In about that order - I love my Systimatic Super Fine, but I bought it at a big discount, otherwise I'd own the Freud.
The Freud 8" Stacked Dado set with kickback reducing shoulder. Rated editors choice by WOOD magazine and Best Buy - American Wood Worker magazine. I use it all the time on a Powermatic 66 and it cuts a nice flat bottom through hard woods easily. The kickback reducing feature is a plus with my high school students.
I have a Forrest dado, and can recommend it highly.
I also have one of the Freud dados that I use where splintering is not an issue.
I would suggest you take your question over to Knots, and title the thread something like "Which Freud Dado to buy." Describe what kind of work you want to do with the dado.
There is a Freud guy who seems to check all the relevant threads (CharlesM), and he will probably pick up your question and give you a run down on the many Freud dados that are available. He is very helpful, and his comments are always very straight forward.
Over there, most posters will push the Forrest dado.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I have had good luck with the CMT 8" set.
I have both a Freud with positive rake and a Dimar with negative rake tooth angle. Dimar crosscuts with zero splintering and tearout on ply, melaimine and hard and softwood, Freud doesn't. Both cut clean with the grain.
Like most of the others I have the Freud (even though all my standard blades are Forrest). The flat bottom cut is a must-have feature. The price was right and the quailty - as much as I use it - is great. I also have a great router table and fence, but when you have a lot of stock to cut or the size is non-standard the dado is the only way to go IMHO.
Anybody try the Dadonator from Infinity Tools?
Haven't tried it, but seen very favorable reviews in a couple of magazines. In the top 2 or three models