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Discussion Forum

Stains on Popcorn Ceiling

JasonPharez | Posted in General Discussion on September 30, 2005 11:39am

I have a customer who had water damage (staining) on their popcorn ceiling due to Katrina. Yesterday we masked the two rooms off, scraped the old popcorn off, sprayed the affected areas with Kilz Odorless oil-base, and resprayed the popcorn. Today you can see not only the old stains, but also where we primed the affected areas.

My thought is to remask and spray the entire popcorn ceiling with 1) Kilz 2 latex primer, and then 2) flat white ceiling paint. Anyone have any other techniques that hide stains and match existing better? I’ve got two more to do next week, and I can’t afford to back two or three times.

Jason Pharez Construction

   Framing & Exterior Remodeling

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Replies

  1. plumbbill | Oct 01, 2005 12:37am | #1

    Your sealing techniques look sound. Assuming the rock is dry.

     But I have to ask the obvious is the source of the stain fixed.

    Can't seal a roof with killz

    1. Danno | Oct 01, 2005 03:19am | #2

      I was going to be a smart guy and say that the stains were probably butter stains (since it was apopcorn ceiling). Glad I didn't. ;-)

      1. DanH | Oct 01, 2005 06:01am | #5

        Gee, I was considering that, but figured it would sound stupid.

        1. HeavyDuty | Oct 01, 2005 06:08am | #6

          Yeah that would sound stupid.

          Anybody smarter than that would say "the works".

        2. Danno | Oct 01, 2005 03:44pm | #9

          Well, good thing I jumped in with it then! I was also going to suggest the old regular pigmented shellac that gets you high, but I see that he already considered and rejected that idea.

          [I see you also go by the name "Xbert." I feel like I'm an "exbert" too in the sense of an ex-Dibert. I used to work in an office just like the one Dilbert works in on the comic strip. The pointy-haired boss is so much like my old boss it's scary.]

          Edited 10/1/2005 8:51 am ET by Danno

    2. JasonPharez | Oct 01, 2005 05:33am | #3

      Yes we repaired the roof three weeks ago and have had two weeks for the rock to dry...was in the attic yesterday before we resprayed and the blown insu. was dry, so no further water intrusion.

      I'm calling my painter this weekend....may just get him to spray the new/old popcorn with two coats Kilz Latex.

      Also, this is the first time I used Kilz oil-base Odorless...it dries very white, like latex Kilz....reg. Kilz oil-base in a can dries yellowish-white. We used the Odorless because the client has children who live there....last ceiling repair we used the reg. Kilz spray and no probs, except we were all high after an hour from the smell.Jason Pharez Construction

         Framing & Exterior Remodeling

      1. User avater
        intrepidcat | Oct 01, 2005 05:59am | #4

        white pigmented schellac

          

      2. CAGIV | Oct 01, 2005 08:29am | #8

        no better advice then anyone else here, but why re-popcorn after you scraped it off?

        I hate popcorn ceilings.

         

        1. plumbbill | Oct 02, 2005 12:02am | #10

          I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks popcorn stinks.

          I scraped my whole house pump can worked great when the popcorn hadn't been painted.

          When I ran into the painted popcorn yup pull out the garden hose.

  2. User avater
    JeffBuck | Oct 01, 2005 07:02am | #7

    like I always say ... if it smells bad and can kill ya ... it's probably a better product!

    I'd try another coat like U thought.

     

    Jeff

        Buck Construction

     Artistry In Carpentry

         Pittsburgh Pa

  3. YesMaam27577 | Oct 02, 2005 12:12am | #11

    Intrepid cat's advice is the best so far. Shellac is the bomb when it comes to holding back stains. And water stains are the absolute worst.

    And yes, shellac smells bad. And yes, it holds back stains WAY better than any Kilz product.

    Use the pigmented stuff, or use the orange stuff. Either one will hold paint when you're done.

     

     

    Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

    1. JasonPharez | Oct 04, 2005 03:55am | #12

      Is there a brand made in an aerosol can? Or is there a brand that can be sprayed with an airless?Jason Pharez Construction

         Framing & Exterior Remodeling

      1. Danno | Oct 04, 2005 04:48am | #13

        I've seen it in aerosol cans--in fact, I used some--a real PITA to work with; it gets all over everything (I should have masked the area but didn't plan on doing it--my "boss" just handed me the can and said do this while I grout the tile--so I didn't have anything to mask the area with.) It did look pretty good though when I was done. One thing, if you don't like what you did, you can just scrape it off and try again. I wiped it off the counter and nearby walls while it was still wet and it was okay. 

      2. YesMaam27577 | Oct 04, 2005 09:06am | #14

        (Note that I think that Danno was talking about aerosol popcorn.)

        I've never seen shellac in a spray can, but then again, I've never looked.

        Yes, you can shoot shellac from an airless, or at least I can't think of why not. I've used an HVLP conversion gun with great result. But note that the solvent is denatured alcohol. Make sure that you have some or your airless won't like you anymore.

         

         Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

        1. Danno | Oct 04, 2005 03:08pm | #16

          Oh, sorry, was still on the popcorn thing. But I've also used shellac in spray cans. It was either Bullseye or Zinsser I think--yellow can of blond shellac. (Ooops, I see Bullseye is made by Zinsser). Couldn't find the spray can, must have used it up. Poly also comes in spray cans.

          1. Abm | Oct 04, 2005 07:57pm | #17

            I prefer using the Bullseye (by Zinser) 123 primer followed by a topcoat of Benjamin Moore "Muresco" ceiling white. These products have always worked very well for me either rolled on (with a 3/4" nap roller) or sprayed with my airless (and sometimes backrolled). If spraying where the temps are warm I would not suggest backrolling and would probably do it at night when the ceiling temps are coolest to prevent tracking marks.... even with the sprayer. Good luck.

          2. Danno | Oct 05, 2005 02:08am | #18

            Jason, I suspect you're following this thread. Post number 18 was really intended for you--hope you saw it.

          3. JasonPharez | Oct 06, 2005 02:01pm | #19

            Thanks for all the replies guys. I hope I'm not taking the easy way out, but I called my painter yesterday and he's meeting with me today about the two homes in question.

            If I had an airless sprayer, this would all be much easier....and I keep saying I'm going to get one... Oh well!Jason Pharez Construction

               Framing & Exterior Remodeling

  4. User avater
    Huck | Oct 04, 2005 09:24am | #15

    A key factor is drying time / humidity of the new coat. Another factor is the severity of the stain itself. Even with a stain blocker, a dark stain will bleed through if the new coat of acoustic stays moist too long. Part of the problem is that the stain blocker also seals the sheetrock adjacent to the stain, inhibiting absorbtion of the high moisture content of the acoustic mix.

    Good air circulation is a must, propane torch or dehumidifier if necessary. From my experience, if humidity in your area is too high to get a quick enough dry time, you may have to remove the damaged sheetrock to eliminate the stain.



    Edited 10/4/2005 2:26 am ET by Huck

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