Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 28, 2007 10:40pm | #1

   I would lock the newel into the framing going on down and then build the short skirtwall up around it. if that wall is all built and finished, then you need to let in and repair the finsih up and around it.

    

    

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2. 
   Ragnar17 | Sep 28, 2007 10:58pm | #2

   Sounds like you're working on closed skirt (or closed stringer) stairs.

   Are you using a solid newel or a box newel?  That will determine what choices you have to anchor the newel.

1. 
   kngfshr | Oct 06, 2007 12:47am | #3

   It is indeed a closed skirt and I would be using a solid newelThanks,
   Eric

1. 
   rez | Oct 06, 2007 05:19am | #4

   bump

    

3. 
   dovetail97128 | Oct 06, 2007 05:29am | #5

   Kingfisher,

   I am going to assume that the rake wall is all built, and probably finished with drywall on both sides.

   Hopefully you built it because it would help to know what is under that 10" flat.

   I have done some like this but could use some additional information about what the framing is like.

   Is this a starting newel or an intermediate ? Located at a landing or turn in the stairs?

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/6/2007 12:07 pm by dovetail97128

1. 
   kngfshr | Oct 08, 2007 11:51pm | #8

   dovetail97128,
   1) it is indeed finished on both sides;
   2) unfortunately, I didn't build it, house is ~38 yrs old, bust guess is that there is a 2x4 plate under the flat 1x trim;
   3) this is an intermediate newel, at the top of the stairs, roughly 10" from the terminating wall;In my mind, the larger headache here is that the desired location for the newel is right where the flat intersects with the slop of the skirt. I thing that the idea from Ragna17 is the best option at this point and I had thought of this but I had only seen the toggle bolt version.Thanks All,
   Eric

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Oct 09, 2007 12:35am | #9

   kngfshr, His post link was a good one. I had something close to that in mind. Before the advent of those connectors I would drill the bottom of the post , drill the wall and use a 3/4" oak dowel . I would use wood epoxy as a glue since I always over sized the hole a small amount so as to give myself a bit of room for final plumbing of the post. Dowel would be about 12" long, 6" into wall 6" into post. But if after drilling a pilot hole you discover that you only have a single plate then simply shorten the dowel up to plate thickness. It helped to also drill a 3/8 hole and use a 3/8 dowel near one of the corners of the post. That would keep it from ever turning on the main dowel when I was aligning things, plus it kept it in place when/if I used screws to lock it into place until the epoxy set. I would use a pocket hole jig to drill the screw holes. Both the pre-made anchor and my method require having solid framing beneath the post, so you may have to open the wall anyway .Being an intermediate post helps, the stress on the post is limited to only two directions. Do a good job of fastening the rails to the post and it should last for years to come.

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

4. 
   Ragnar17 | Oct 08, 2007 12:04pm | #6

   Sorry for the delayed response; hope this reaches you in time to still be of help.

   I'd use this product for what you've described:

   Note that the kit includes a washer with a rounded bottom surface to fill in the lower half of the 1"-diameter access hole.

    

   View Image

1. 
   Matt | Oct 08, 2007 01:32pm | #7

   That is very similar to the kit we use (per the request of my trim carps) for standard newel post installations although OTOH, it sounds like the OP's situation is fairly  atypical.