Replies

1. 
   FastEddie | Aug 28, 2005 06:37am | #1

   If they sit on top oif the foundation, then they will stand taller than the top of the concrete.  If they sit in beam pockets, then the top of the steel will be flush with the top of the concrete.

    

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   paule38 | Aug 28, 2005 04:40pm | #2

   Go with beam pockets, it'll make the application flush with the concrete as was said here in post #2. On commercial applications in NYS the beam pocket has to be grouted in after placing the beam, I know your application is residential, but grouting the pocket in makes it a bit more secure......just my 2 cents....

   If you aren't one of the one's I'm talking about,you shouldn't have any complaints....

3. 
   Framer | Aug 28, 2005 06:43pm | #3

   If you go with a dropped beam then you will loose headroom in the basement but you can put your joists on top with no hangers.

   If you go with a flush beam because you need the height in the basement then you will have to pack the beam out and use hangers for every joist.

   I would go with the dropped if you aren't worried about headroom. It's ####lot easier for framing.

   Joe Carola
4. 
   sawzall | Aug 28, 2005 06:52pm | #4

   All three are good.  Setting the beam on top of the wall is easiest for the foundation sub, and steel sub.  I don't know how the floor is framed on top of these, that's something to consider to. I do know that if you get the foundation guy, steel sub, carpenters ,and everyone else together, they will all argue where to put them.

5. 
   Matt | Aug 28, 2005 11:08pm | #5

   Weather a drop girder or a flush girder is a choice of design and cost of installation.  You need to make up your mind as detailed in the above posts.    Also though, if you select a flush girder configuration, you may still have to sacrifice head room in the basement due to duct and plumbing runs that must cross the location of a steel beam, or run perpendicular to the joists.  The best way around all this is a 9' basement ceiling that can then be dropped to ~8' to accommodate utilities.

   As far as attachment, gravity is mostly gonna hold the girders in place so any of the attachment methods you described are adequate.  You may find though that it is difficult to get bolts that are cast into the foundation placed perfectly for a beam that will probably be pre-drilled at the steel supplier's shop. 

1. 
   FastEddie | Aug 29, 2005 03:56am | #6

   Is it possible to order the beams with a couple of holes cut for electrical and plumbing runs?

     

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   Matt | Aug 29, 2005 12:45pm | #7

   Probably, but it would have to be OKed by the PE who specified the beams.  I've never seen it though so really don't know.  The real prob though is the HVAC ducts...