*
I am close to the point where I will be trying to set up the woodstove. I have both standard black pipe, and stainless triple wall pipe. There will be about 3 feet of the black pipe on the stove, and from there on up, it will be the stainless triple wall pipe. I have the pipe I have. I must use what I have. There is no option for going out and buying more of the black pipe, or more of the stainless.
I am at the halfway point on the roof. I am sheathing the roof with pallet boards. Just like laying a floor in oak, etc. Tomorrow I need to set the stovepipe up, so that I can frame around it for the bracers, etc, and can then run my roofing around it. I would rather set the thing up just once, of course. Thus the question.
My question is this… The pipe is 8 inch. I have a 2 foot section of 16th inch mild steel pipe, that is 10 inch pipe. If I set it over the 8 inch black pipe, there is a 1 inch gap all around. It sits on the top of the woodstove, outside the flange which the 8 inch pipe fits into. With about a foot of the black pipe showing clear before the stainless stuff starts. What effect will there be if I put that steel pipe over the black pipe ? Will this help with drafting ? (By keeping the lower section of pipe at a warmer temp than without it.) Will it cause that lower section to burn out ? Would it help with the prevention of creosote ?
Bottom line, yea or nay ?
Replies
*
10" collar around 8" pipe won't help with the drafting. Once the "plug" of cold air is pushed out (use something that burns quickly, like paper, to do this when you start the fire), the fire creates its own draft as long as there is enough clearance above the roof for air flow across the top of the stack and you provide enough air flow into the box for thorough combustion, and your wood is dry enough.
Since there would be some open area for a foot between this collar and the stovepipe, i doubt it would get hot enough to burn out the stovepipe. I think the collar would insulate the stovepipe to a minor extent and let some heat go up the chimney that might radiate into the room, but it would store and re-radiate heat itself, so who knows what will happen until the venting boys show up, eh? Creosote is best defeated by burning hotter fires of clean, dry fuel and little pitch or plastics, but the 10" collar would contribute little is anything to the temp of the firebox.
BTW a rope tied to a burlap bag full of tire chains hauled up and down the stove pipe several times does a decent job of cleaning the chimney.
Bottom line: you don't need a collar to stay hot under. ;-)
*Hi, Luka. On the tannin bit, (saving your tea), I just read this morning, in a small book about building with soil (rammed earth, adobes, soil blocks etc.) that tannic acid can be used as a soil conditioner, helps it stick together better and so on. Thought you might like to know.As to your stove pipe, I hope you have long underwear.
*Bottom line: nay. It will look odd and not do much one way or the other. It will marginally reduce the efficiency of the stove and the cresote deposition (those go together) by slightly insulating a bit of the pipe. And by maintaining a marginally higher temp, you will have a bit more draft. Pretty small effects. It would provide a little more safety if you have young ones around. Then I'd do it.Bigger issues: dry hardwood helps A LOT as splinter points out. Adequate length of chimney above the peak of the roof - a couple of feet. If not at the peak of the roof, its top ought to be within a 20% slope of the peak (if 15 feet away from the peak, it can be 3 feet lower than the peak). But more height is always better. Will snow slide into the stovepipe? A straight run is far better than putting any bends in it. Two 90's in 8" duct is like adding 32 feet of pipe in terms of pressure drop but adding no more draft.It would seem you want to install single wall with the male end up (so stuff wouldn't catch on it). But this isn't a dryer vent with lots of lint. Put the female end up if you can. It will keep the cresote drips INSIDE the pipe.Wood heats you seven times. When you drop the trees, when you limb them, when you buck the logs, when you split the rounds, when you stack the cordwood, when you carry it into the house, and then again when you burn it. Enjoying my $0.38/therm natural gas ($1.10/day at -25F). -David
*
I am close to the point where I will be trying to set up the woodstove. I have both standard black pipe, and stainless triple wall pipe. There will be about 3 feet of the black pipe on the stove, and from there on up, it will be the stainless triple wall pipe. I have the pipe I have. I must use what I have. There is no option for going out and buying more of the black pipe, or more of the stainless.
I am at the halfway point on the roof. I am sheathing the roof with pallet boards. Just like laying a floor in oak, etc. Tomorrow I need to set the stovepipe up, so that I can frame around it for the bracers, etc, and can then run my roofing around it. I would rather set the thing up just once, of course. Thus the question.
My question is this... The pipe is 8 inch. I have a 2 foot section of 16th inch mild steel pipe, that is 10 inch pipe. If I set it over the 8 inch black pipe, there is a 1 inch gap all around. It sits on the top of the woodstove, outside the flange which the 8 inch pipe fits into. With about a foot of the black pipe showing clear before the stainless stuff starts. What effect will there be if I put that steel pipe over the black pipe ? Will this help with drafting ? (By keeping the lower section of pipe at a warmer temp than without it.) Will it cause that lower section to burn out ? Would it help with the prevention of creosote ?
Bottom line, yea or nay ?