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Leo,
Could you "expand" upon what you would like to discuss?
Expansion in t 1-11 is an non-issue for me and I have installed a bit of it...
Near the stream,
J
*I'm refurbishing a mobil home with new windows and siding. I used 3/8th's T-111 for the siding. Installed in cold weather and did not seal it. Put it over the existing punk board siding. Some of the panels on the south side have buckled, with the vertical bubble between the 16" stud nailing. Not all the panels did this. It's the south side and takes a lot of sun. Structure is worth saving as it has 2x6 studs, R-19, etc. and the owner is very low income. Any insights would be appreciated. I'm doing it as they can afford it. Labor is free.
*Strictly out of curiosity , what is T-111???
*T-111 is sheet plywood that is grooved every 6-8" so as to look like solid wood siding. It may or not be stamped with the simulated grain, thereby "enhancing" its attractiveness. Unfortunatly, it was used on many homes.
*Rich,T 1-11 is a fantastic product in my area...Rustic look, very economical, easy installation, and weathers as well as any wood product, I have not one bad thing top say about it.Near the stream,J
*Rich,T 1-11 is a fantastic product in my area...Rustic look, very economical, easy installation, and weathers as well as any wood product. I have not one bad thing top say about it.Near the stream,J
*Double post, Jack. Wait 'til Joe F. hears about this. Two slaps.
*Leo,What passes for t-111 comes in a variety of grades and quality. My first thought, when you said you were doing it as they could afford it, is did all this t-111 come from the same batch? When you say it is unsealed, does that mean its not painted or stained? The vertical bubbles you mentioned, is it buckling intact or is it delaminating? If its delaminating, as I suspect, I dont know of a fix.As usual, lots of questions. No answers. JonC
*Jack, In Alaska, most houses are T 1-11 sided (looks rustic, ain't anything cheaper, and people tell themselves they'll put cedar over it when they get the time and money). You seem to like it - any tricks to make it look better? I dislike the look of the metal flashing at the seams of two-story houses and on the gable ends of the house. I've seen a few houses where the seams were deemphasized or covered with wood in a way that worked pretty well.Wearing Bean boots during thaw,David
*David,It is a matter of overall home design and trim details to make T 1-11 look nice...I have liked it since I saw what appeared to be a very expensive home set in a wooded, but nicely set up, lot. There's so much more than just the siding that makes a home have curb appeal...And yes trim, and or overlapping, verses the metal showing, is nice. Many times a good couple of coats of solid stain will also make a T 1-11 home look better. How many homes do you see that the front door has never been painted and is still just primed steel?Near the stream,J
*Four posts!!!!!J
*Assuming this is T-1-11 and not some substitute it is the only "land" plywood that is stamped for exterior use. (I know CDX has exterior glue, but it is not stamped exterior) So if you are having a problem double check to see if it is really what you think it is.You say it is applied to a mobile home that has 2x6 studs. I have never seen a mobile home with 2x6 studs. Kit homes, modular homes, but never trailers(mobile homes). So I would verify that indeed the studs are 2x6 and not 2x2, or somesuch.You don't write what thickness T-1-11 you are using. If what you are using is adequate it will be stamped as rated for sheathing. If it is and you have used adequate fasteners then my first guess is that you have had a support failure in the wall under the plywood. If it is not stamped then you may very well be getting normal displacement. I would also recheck the nailing. This plywood is sensitive to adequate perimeter an field nailing.I don't know what "punk siding" is. But if it is some composition material that was not in good condition not taking it off was a mistake. T-1-11 needs to be nailed over a good support. It is vulnerable to damamage from moisture and stress from the underlying materials.In short, check it out but it looks like you are in for a tear off followed by a framing repair and reinstallation.Dave T: I have used a variety of 1x moulding and banding to cover the butt joints. This seems to work ok since some of them are now 25years old with no apparent problems. But there isn't any other way I know except to cover with lap siding or such. If one isgoing to do that there isn't much reason for the extra cost vs regular plywood.
*Fred B,When I mentioned "lap" I was talking about lapping the T 1-11 which is possible by off-setting the second story framing...Near the stream,J
*The t1-11 descibed is the cheapest version of the stuff on the market. It is too thin,and will invariably wave between the vertical support framing, especially in moist conditions.I would suspect, trapped moisture is contributing, maybe exterior seal failure due to pooor maitenance. Tell them the y have to paint the stuff, with something better than 11$ for a big bucket kmart paint!I'm laughing, 'cause I painted my first old garage with that crap when I was a rookie. It lasted 90 days! But I got a good deal, 5 qts to the bucket for only 9$!Blue
*AJ: Thanks for the clarification.Blue: Thanks, when I was posting I forgot that the thickness was in the original question. Next time I'll scroll back up occasionally.I'll bet the problem is either that it isn't really T-1-11. Or, most likely, it is too thin over some type of fibre or particlboard siding. In either case, it is a tearoff.Leo: What do you plan to do now? Don't be embaressed. I won't bore you with my messups.