Taking issue with Taping Tricky Transitions, Issue 214
I am not in the usual construction business per say, I am a [Physical] Special Effects man for the studios. After reading Myron Ferguson’s article on dry wall taping tricks (FHB 214), I would like to share an experience I had many years ago on a movie called ‘Barton Fink”. We had to design a long hallway to burst into flames behind an actor as he ran down it. Because we had to be prepared for multiple takes, we used two sheets of 5/8 drywall for fire resistance. While consulting with our master plaster caster, he told us of a trick he had that would positively prevent the tape and joint compound from looosening up from the paper during the incredibly hot 30 second takes. His ‘trick’ was to spray 3M’s 77 adhesive on the dry wall joints and then stick the adhesive backed fiberglass tape on to that. He then proceded to mud the joints as usual. Take one was successful.
The second time we turned on the fire bars, every joint popped off the wall board. Why? Because the 77 spray became a moisture barrier that prevented the compounds from actually soaking into the paper to form a good bond.
My suggestion is, if you need to adhere corner bead to the paper, spray the adhesive ONLY to the back side of the bead itself, not the paper. This would allow the water based compounds to soak into the voids between the lands and get the proper grip.
Replies
After the first failure..........
How did you redo the joints for subsequent shots?
See OP
>>Take one was successful.<<
Although I don't know why they lit it up again producing the failures.
Jim
Yes,
I read that, but understood the successful part being in the tape didn't fall off.
Comprehension is not my strong suit though.