Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 2000 06:17pm | #1

   *
   Rd: I don't think that many of the folks who use krat faced bats care about maintaining a continuous vapor barrier. Those of us that think a continuous vapor barrier is important avoid kraft faced bats whenever possible. Chase

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 2000 11:36pm | #2

   *Thanks for the info. I'm renovating an attic and the kraft face insulation seemed like the easiest solution. I guess not.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 03, 2000 10:03pm | #3

   *RD. Will you have useable space in the atic or are you ust insulating the attic floor? Youi best bet if the latter is blown in cellulose. GeneL.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 2000 10:39pm | #4

   *How do you guys install FG kraft-faced insulation? I always attach it to the face of the studs, but this FH article installing fg says you should staple to the side of the studs. I remember reading that stapling to the sides starts an airflow in the resulting air gap, which lowers r-value. Any thoughts on this?jim

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 01:30am | #5

   *I will have usable space. I'm creating two bedrooms and a bathroom. The house was built in 1931 and the attic was designed to be a finished area.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 02:47am | #6

   *IMHO: If you have to use kraft faced bats ... applied to the face of the stud offers a much tighter job. The reason folks around here staple it to the side is to make it easy for the dry wall hangers to find the studs.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 08:32am | #7

   *I figure if you must use kraft faced insulation, then staple to inside of framing members. Can you say loose drywall?If you desire a vapor barrier then use 6 mil poly.joe d