I like to try new things, so rather than bothering my masonry sub to come in early for a little short trip, I thought I would do this little block pier myself. See the pic.
It sits down below frostline on a pad, and none of it will be seen. A grand total of 40 6-inch blocks and 8 8-inchers. The 28x28x40H base picks up the 16x16x32H core, and Mr. Masonry will face the core with stone later. I’ll lay in some brick ties for him.
I’ve done glass block work and tile, plus some dry laid stone structures, but buttering these up and setting them should be enjoyable.
Any tips?
Replies
A good project to practice laying block.
I found, after much trial and error, that getting the mortar to the right consistency and adding a little lime to the mix to make it a little stickier, is key.
Then, when your mortar is the way you like it, spreading your mix out on the mortarboard with your trowel to about an inch thick, then using the trowel to cut off the lines to butter onto the ends, edges, etc. Use a trowel for the size of your block...i.e 8" block = 8" trowel.
Takes a little practice to get the thickness right so your layout stays true.
Use mason blocks and string and a level to keep your courses aligned. A rubber mallet is handy to tap blocks into position, though the end of the trowel handle works fine, too.
Have a striking tool handy to clean up your joints at the end of the day. A stiff brisled brush and a 5 gal. bucket of water are handy for cleanup of the block, the tools and your mortarbox and/or wheelbarrow.
Gene, blocks suck, they get heavier as the day goes on.
Guessing something will be sitting on this pier? So you might want to stick some bar in some of the cores and fill with concrete. There's not much actual strength in those mortar joints.
That's about the right size to learn, and be done with just about the time you'll have learned all you'll ever want to know about blocks.
Joe H
I just laid 96 concrete block to add another 8" of height to a stem wall for DWs' kennel bldg./studio. The first three courses were of light weight block. The difference in weight between the two was unbelievable.
I use a 10" trowel for all my block work. You can quickley learn to cut and shake the proper amount of mud on the trowel for bed and head joints. A little trick to keep the mud from sliding off the trowel when you turn it sideways, is to give it a quick shake (an up and down flick of the wrist), before laying it over. When you butter the head joints on the block ends, use the bottom of the trowel to strike the mud toward the center of the block on each side. If you down strike it back so it sets to the block, it has a tendency to fall off when you start to set the block. Keep a folding rule in your hip pocket and check you height and length at least a couple of time each course. I keep a 12" Level in the other hip pocket and level across each block on a pier like that, and a 3 or 4" level laying nearby to check plumb.
I assume you don't have a metal mortar board and will use a piece of plywood for your board. Use plenty of water on a new piece of plywood before you load it with mud. A dry board will suck the moisture out of your mix faster than you can use it. The mud will get so stiff you will be reaching for a hammer to tap the block into level. Keep the mud wet, and you never need more than the trowel handle to make adjustments. A 5 gal. bucket of water nearby is convienent to cut the mud back to the right consistancey. I have metal motar boards and ussually just flood a little extra water in them for that purpose, but that won't work on a wood board..
Between those concrete block and DW new rock garden, It'll take another week or two for me to walk upright agian.
Dave
a piece of formica on the wood mortar board helps
bobl Volo, non valeo
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