What is the best way to miter tin cornices?
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I recently installed some 9 in. cornice for a job we have underway. For inside corners the best thing to do is let one piece butt square into the corner and cope the second piece to fit. It is not "easy", but with some patience and a little trial and error you can acheive a nice tight fit. Once you have a good fit you can use that piece as a pattern to cut the rest of the inside corners. You my have to adjust them a little, but it makes a good starting point. Outside corners are an entirely different animal. We never found a good way to get a clean tight joint. Our solution was to build an outside corner from wood that was attractive and allowed the cornice to butt into it square.
Hope this helps.
We have done many tin ceilings over the years. I have found that if I take some 1/2" ply and reproduce the ceiling and wall measurements. ie. If the tin is set say 4" out on the ceiling I take my ply which is now nailed at a 90o angle and I nail a small say 1/2 by 3/4 piece of wood 4'' out from the inside if the ply. Then do the same with the drop say 4" and do the same. I then cut a left mitre on one side and a right mitre in the right side. I then slide my tin moulding into the jig. putting a pencil line along the mitre then cutting with a hand shears give me a great cut to start any additional coping needed. I do the same on outside miters except I make them 1/4 to 1/2 longer. Then when they are up I use a ball peen hammer and peen one sire over the other. If you take your time it looks like a perfect metal joint. Jim
depending on the manufacturer you may be able to get pre formed corners, that is truly the way to go, lacking that I would try to cope on inside and hem on outside.
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll build the jig that Tim mentioned. I'm not actually using it for tin ceilings and the lengths vary quite a bit. I'll let you know how it works out.