Tool for cutting plaster and drywall
karteberry
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Am remodeling kitchen, interior walls are 1/2″ drywall topped with 1/2″ plaster. I am knocking some walls out completely and tearing dw and plaster off some others. My question is what tool to use when I get to ceilings that I want to save ? Would a MultiMaster work. Grinder with a cutting wheel ?
Edited 7/19/2009 3:38 pm by karteberry
Replies
I don't think a multimaster is going to handle that task. It will take too long and eat through blades.
Since it sounds like you're doing a complete remodel, I would seriously consider removing the plaster from the ceiling also. It will save you grief with the installation of fixtures now and later. Should you need to make any repairs in the future, you'll thank yourself for taking the extra trouble now.
However, if you must save the plaster, use a wide chisel to score it near the corner and a right-angle grinder with a cutting wheel for any metal lath you encounter. Buy several extra blades because any remaining plaster will wear them out very quickly.
Thanks, Yes I have to save some of the plaster because I'm tearing out the wall between the existing kitchen and dining room so I at least want save that ceiling, in the kitchen I almost resigned to tearing out the whole ceiling but I have to have a point of demarcation somewhere. And from previous tearouts in the bathroom, it's plaster over drywall with metal in the corners and seams.
I second what Don said about tearing out the ceiling. For one thing, it'll give you a chance to runs wires, and whatever else needs done.
However, if you do decide to leave the ceiling, Lenox makes a plaster blade for a recip saw that cuts well, and doesn't dull too quickly. But be careful. A lot of old plaster had metal lath folded into the corner to give it strength. Its possible to have a catch with the recip saw, and pull off chunks of the ceiling.
You mention that you have drywall with plaster on it. Sounds to me like you have rock lath and plaster.
In either case, it is possible (likely) that all of the corners (vertical and horizontal) are reinforced with metal lath corner grids. And if that is the case, you won't have any fun at all during the demolition portion of the job.
If there's metal in the corners, my best luck has been to use a segmented diamond blade in an angle grinder. Cut deep into the corner to be sure you're through the metal.
Be sure to wear ear, eye, and breathing protection -- serious breathing protection. And have dust control curtains and exhaust and ventilation.
Good luck.
Sounds to me like you have rock lath and plaster.
Here in So. Cal., it sounds like button board and sanded plaster, common about 50 or 60 years ago. I just break the plaster out carefully with a hammer, and cut the button board like sheetrock, with a sawzall or keyhole saw. Patch back with 1/2" rock and 3/8" rock over that, finished with setting type compound.View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
Hey; this maybe a little off topic but if I was you I would be concerned about asbestos in the drywall filler!! Maybe I am off base on this one, but if I was you I would protect myself and crew and remove the walls in as big pieces as possible ( less dust ) . Good luck
And keep it damp with hose or garden sprayer
personally i like to use the diamond grit sawzall blades, well worth the money when plaster is involved. an extra person runnin the shop vac hose to keep airborne dust down is handy.
Woods favorite carpenter
Amen, Matt!!!!!!
Quality repairs for your home.
AaronR ConstructionVancouver, Canada
We remodel houses just like this constantly. The fastest way we have found to get this miserable job done is a grinder with a diamond wheel, tyvek suit, respirator, goggles, gloves, a second person running a very good vacuum and last but not least elbow grease!!
Thanks, that is what I'll get. Grinder and Diamond blade it is. Are you using a 7"or 4" wheel ?
seriously suit up if your going with a grinder, it THROWS the dust and chips, been there done that, open the windows, tape/tarp things off, cause rooster tails are going to be flying! Woods favorite carpenter
That sounds really involved. I just tap the plaster with the claw side of my hammer, chip out the line I want to cut, then cut the button board with a sawzall, like shown on the link. Badda bing badda boom, its done, with a minimum of fuss.
http://www.youtube.com/user/BakersfieldRemodel#play/uploads/7/Tg3H65J9Me4View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
Running a grinder down a joint is not very involved, the advantage is speed, you perform 1 action for 1 pass to cut through any and all substrates.
The fastest way we have found to get this miserable job done is a grinder with a diamond wheel, tyvek suit, respirator, goggles, gloves, a second person running a very good vacuum and last but not least elbow grease!!
It dont think it was running the grinder that sounded like so much work. I think it was getting the grinder dressed up in its little tyvek suit, respirator, goggles, and gloves! View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
We like to be safe, unless you perform environmental testing on all substrates, you don't really know what you are being exposed to. Just because it's easier doesn't mean it's right. We can't afford to have DSS taking our grinders away for neglect!
Just because it's easier doesn't mean it's right.
tremendous insight, thereView Image bakersfieldremodel.com
Thank You!!!
Just be aware that the acoustical properties of rock lath and plaster far exceed those of 1/2" drywall - ie to get the same acoustical (sound transmission) effect don't be surprised if you need insulation and more in the cavity, or conversely, don't be surprised if you hear everything on the second floor (if there is one).
Jeff