In the near future I’m going to be building some laminated countertops. I have watched a few guys do this however at the time I’m always doing my own thing so I’ve only caught bits and pieces. I filled in most of my questions about the process with the FHB article archive but I have just a few more that you guys could probably clean up. I’m familiar with the process and I’m not doing an overly complicated counter anyway (laundry room) so I don’t feel over my head or anything. I think this is the perfect job to cut my teeth on and learn something new.
Here’s my questions?
Is a trim router (TR) worth buying for this?
If I don’t buy a trim router can I use my regular router instead to trim up the laminate? If I can save a few bucks in these tight days it would be helpful.
If I do buy a TR, what other uses does it have? Does it work well to make dados or milling an edge on ¾ material? I currently use my regular router but that thing is heavy and awkward and if a TR would make that job easier it might make the purchase more justifiable.
I reread the trim router review the FHB did this past spring. The Craftsman TR got good marks. I don’t have any Craftsman power tools but I got gift certificate for Father’s Day this year for Sears and its just collected dust since. I would use that up to buy their TR based on the positive review the FHB had on it. What do you guys think of the Craftsman TR?
Finally, away from the TR question. When adhering the laminate to the particle board substrate, I’m going to do the face on edge first, then the top. If the contact cement drips off the top and gets on the face of the laminated edge how easy is it to clean off?
Any more laminating tips?
As always, thanks guys and gals for the advice.
Replies
No reason to buy a trim router to do one countertop, but if you've got coupon, why not. They are mostly handy for easing edges & mortising hinge gains.
Drips clean up easy.
Use LOTS of slats or dowels to hold the lam. off the substrate, pull them out one at a time from the center out......
Biggest head-ache can be getting a good, square built up edge....and finding good substrate.
A "regular" router will work just fine.
The advantages of a trim router include its small size and light weight. Because its footprint is smaller, a trim router can get a bit closer to the walls than a larger-base router.
Other than that, the differences are quite small.
A trim router is nice, but not a necessity.
As far as installing the laminate- edges first; then route and file the edge flush to the top and bottom. The router will get you very close to flush, but not quite. You'll need to use a file or handplane to get the rest of the way. IMO, a laminate file works best.
I like to use a belt sander on the edging to get it flush to the substrate, but it does take a little technique to keep from gouging the countertop. It also grinds off any contact cement that gets on the top. The laminate for the counter top can't be sanded flush, because you'll just mess up your nice, new edging.
There are also beveled laminate trim bits available, which, if set up and used with care, can almost eliminate any filing. But you're left with a more visible, dark edge from the core of the laminate.
Dad always just used a handsaw held at a shallow angle to trim Formica, maybe a plane to get it closer, and dressed the edge with a file held at 45 degrees - it works and is free.
Forrest
A trim router is nice to have because of their size, certainly not a must have. I have a Porter Cable trim router that I picked up at a yard sale for $25.00. For the occasional laminate work I did, it came in handy. For years I used the PC 1 -1/2hp router.They come in handy for small roundovers on solid stock.
mike
Generally you will 2 coat your substrait-single coat your laminate.
You mention a laundry counter, perhaps a straight slab? If an "L", take this for what's it's worth. Never cut, rout or file a sharp inside corner in laminate. It might crack outta that corner while moving it, gluing it or a while down the road when the substrait moves. When doing an inside corner, drill a hole you can cut to. After placing the lam, rout that corner and when filing, do not cut into that slightly rounded inside corner.
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Not strictly relevant, but be aware that lacquer thinner will turn cured contact cement back into goop. Just something to keep in mind, in case something - something bad - might happen.
'Cause, you know. You never know.
I jumped right in and didn't read the other responses, so this may end up just being a review of the other posts.
I just found a hardly-ever-been-used DeWalt trim router and love it! I know for rounding edges and roman ogee's, I don't even use my full sized Craftsman anymore. I've never cut a mortise with it, but I think that you would rather use a big one for that anyways. I like the fact that I don't need my clamps.
If you do alot of routing, you'll wish you had bought one alot sooner. If you don't think you will ever use it again after this countertop, save your money and buy the really good can of glue.
Plenty of fresh air. Keep the router bit moving (you can scorch things pretty quickly if you hold the bit in the same place more than a couple of seconds. And keep the bearing on the router bit clean (watch out for buildup of glue residue). Don't forget to bring the shop vac
Any excuse for a new tool. This is a very nice unit.
http://bosch.cpotools.com/routers/palm_routers/pr20evsk-rt.html
Just to add to what others have posted. About every forth plam job I will make sanding blocks out of the substrate material (usually 3/4" high density particleboard or MDF). I use 4" wide sanding belts, say 80 grit. Cut 4" wide pieces of the substrate and then cut progressively to length so that a belt will just slide on nice and tight, maybe ease the edges where the belt wraps around the block. Now you use this sanding block to flush your edge plam to the top. Sand just until you can't catch your fingernail on the plam edge. Takes a workout to do it, but minimizes any chance for gouging the top. You'll also have a sanding block to use for other stuff.
My favorite, PC 310:View Image
+1
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Absolutely. No contest.AitchKay
By the way, although PC has discontinued the PC 310, you can still buy them from Betterly.
Hurry![email protected]AitchKay
Yeah, I'll vote for the Bosch.
Much better for most site related routing.
It's not a tank but it will do most regular jobs.
How long have you had the Colt?
Hey Guys, thanks so much for all the advice.
Seems you guys are pretty evenly split on the TR. There are definitely some pros to having one but on the other hand its not "a must have" and thanks to all the guys who gave me some great suggestions on how to work without one.
I like kenhill3’s suggestion about the sanding block. That’s even a great idea for making a general purpose sanding block. I’ll think I’ll make that regardless if I get a TR or not.
The big issue for me is that I have a pretty tight tool budget these days. If I buy a new toy I want to feel like I’ll have more than one use for it. I really try and "cross-use" as many tools as I can.
Thanks to Mr. Loman on post #8 for the lacquer thinner tip. I’ll keep my lacquer close by.
I use my PC trim router whnever I want to round over a shelf edge, or most times wneh I'm using a small 1/4" shank bit. It works well for small dados and grooves in boards too. It's a whole lot more enjoyable than using a full-size router. Works well for routing hinge mortises."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
As for router bits my preference is for solid carbide laminate trim bits- they come in flush and 7 degree types and are inexpensive, generally less than $10. Whiteside http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html carries them as do others. You'll have to coat the edge with a coat of wood paste wax or parrafin so you don't burn the edge laminate. Having said that a piloted flush trim bit will work fine. Ditto on the laquer thinner. Don't forget a roller; Bosch makes a decent one for about $15 http://www.7corners.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=44987&zenid=204ed9cf1efc0901c81754feb1df082d Wouldn't hurt to build a small mockup from scraps; you can try the flush and seven degree bits to see which you like better and jazz up the edge with a wood insert.
"The inherent vice of capitalism is the uneven division of blessings while the inherent virtue of socialism is the equal division of misery" Sir Winston Churchill
That PC is discontinuing the 310 is beyond me. Well, maybe not beyond because it looks they are more interested now in selling cheap cr^p like everyone else.The question is, what about the tooling and stuff for it? I wouldn't be surprised if someone acquires it. Probably will reappear as made in China. Who knows. I'm just running at the mouth.
I think the Craftsman is a rebadged Bosch. If so, it will be a good tool.
The advantage of trim routers is that they are much smaller and lighter than a full size router. Think Thoroughbred horse, vs. a Clydesdale.
I own several of both, there is some cross over, but both have their place.
I beileve it's a Ryobie and not a Bosch....
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I bought a porter cable laminate trimmer several years ago for some long since forgotten reason. I find I use it just as often as I do my larger porter cable router. I like how easy it is to grip the small diameter of the motor.
Height adjustment is not especially precise but I rarely do router work that requires extraordinarily precise depth settings.
I say go ahead and buy one, you won't regret it and will find plenty of other uses for it.
Karl