Hi All,
Have to put two girders under house, a “T”, 16′ for one and 24′ for the other. Both supported by concrete piers, pilasters as they meet foundation. I figured 16D nails, three top to bottom, about 8″ apart. Was thinking of putting some carriage bolts every 3 feet, one on top and one on bottom. Overkill?
Thanks
Kevin
PS Happy Labor Day!
Replies
>> carriage bolts...... Overkill? <<
Way overkill unless specified by the eng.
Really though, if you wanted to do something like that, simpson has some screws especially for that.... Or I'd even maybe use through bolts, nuts, & washers.
Granted, codes vary form state to state, etc, but generally we don't use carriage bolts in platform stick framed home building - maybe for timber framing... I don't know anything about that...
True. Only times I've had engineer spec bolting was triple LVLs
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Simpson screws, seen them for LVL's, nailing would be easier and cheaper, especially with palm nailer.
probably.
use PL premium and nails at 12-14"
For triple girder nail from both sides.
When using bolts, just nail enough to pull it snug, then bolt at 18" OC diagoanlly updown/updown/up
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"use PL premium"Construction Adhesive? Engineer made no comment on nailing.
Yes adhesive
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is it organic, will it degrade over time, just curious.
It is a polyurethene construction adhesive. Stronger that normal PL 400, works on damp lumber and PT, goes further because it swells to fill voids as it cures, flows easily unless very cold, works on concrete too....Best all around construction adhesive I have ever used. Practically welds stuff together...But you being a doc - best wear gloves around it or your patients will wonder what the stains on your hands are, LOL
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thanks for the stain tip. Was going to start a thread about using PT lumber for porch railing, which I would than paint white. Figured your answer is enough. Two things, can you paint PT and second, would i be better off with SYP or even cedar. Kinda hijacking my own thread.
Thanks
Yes, you can stain or paint PT. use latex.But the staining I was referring to is that any glue on your hands leaves them black because it picks up all the dirt and glues it to your skin.And it is a very good glue. There is a thread here recently from a guy wondering how he can get it off his paws.Short answer is
Gloves before
or
acetone during
or
pumice stone later
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yes you can paint PT, but is there an advantage to using it over regular wood. I would think it's like double protection, the ACQ and the paint being two lines of defense against rot. As for the adhesive staining, I'll definetly try to avoud getting it on my skin rather than correct the problem later.
I don't think of paint as a protection against rot. It is more of a cosmetic surface. There are cases where I've seen paint trap water and accelerate rot.
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so if you had a choice, which would you use for a porch rail, and porch posts?
I forget - what are the choices?I do a lot with CVG Fir and with red cedar, but more with Fypon.
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choices are untreated balusters and posts for a porch, or PT, either of which would be painted.
choices are untreated balusters and posts for a porch, or PT
LOL.... you're putting Piffin in a tough spot with those choices there Doc..... that's like asking which you'd like more..... getting poked in the eye, or kicked in the shin.View Image
Yeah, I was thinking it was an easy question. There are alot of choices out there, but given the age of the house, 120 yo, I don't want to use anything PVC or other imitation type products.
How about something like cedar or fir Doc? Both take paint well and offer better rot resistance than KD.View Image
I was thinking of cedar, I have to duplicate some fret work on the gable end facing the street, and thought the original stuff may be cedar. Probably good for the rail and posts, etc. as you say.
Red cedarThat was easy
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Get KDAT PT lumber - it takes and holds paint much better. KDAT - Kiln Dried After Treating. Sometimes called re-dried. It's actually dried 2x - once before PT, once after.
I'll have to look for that.
I frequently frame new homes with 2x12 built up girders for the main beams in the basement. Nailing schedule is most always limited to three 16's every 16", nailed from both sides. I've yet to see one specified with bolts unless there was a flitch plate or something else off the beaten path going on. Under most applications, the wood would fail before the nailed connection.
Got it, thanks.
Recently did both triple lvl's and triple 2x12. The architect's nailing schedule and local code required nailing every 12" both sides. The PL was not required, but is a good idea. Aside being quicker using bolts, our inspector frowned upon the addition of bolts.
We had replaced a triple 2x12 that had been secured only with bolts. Those bolts has been so tighten down that heads had been pulled over a 1/2" into the wood and the nut and the washer about the same. I was amazed they hadn't sheered or snapped.