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Recently bought a transit (David White LT6-900)
at a garage sale but it will not level. Obviously
needs adjusting but how does one do that?
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One sends it off to be calibrated.
* Phil,
Joseph Fusco View Image
*Phil,You got to take it in.........sorry.If it won't spin level, calibration won't help.You've got bad compensator springs.Could be totaled.Good luck,Ed. Williams
*I have a Nikon builder's auto-level that went out a few years ago....As usual I gave it a go to see if I could readjust it and low a behold after an hour or so, done deal and right on...Took it down to the lakeside to verify all by shooting the other shore. So how I did it was so tricky that I'm not sure I could explain it or the math I did to figure the correction...here goes...Mark two points on your cellar floor...set up level at each point and measure down to floor...also shoot to this same opposite spot a measurement...with these four measurements I some how figured out the actual height of level above positions and the difference in height between the two locations...then I compensated ofr all of that and came out with the amount my level was in error shooting down slope...turned a set screw to dial out half of some number above some totally compensated height and wa la!!!! It all worked...may never be able to do it again as braincells are dieing daily. Also going with David White auto laser level with 6 degrees slope capability along with vertical beam and many other features too numurous to list or use in a lifetime...Near the stream,j
*Phil,I have adjusted my berger a couple of times and it is no big deal. Same with an ancient craftsman. Both those "transits", builder's levels really, have a small hole on the adjuster into which a 4d finish nail will fit. There will be a spring between the fluid vial and the adjusting nut. It is a good idea to adjust out too far and then take up the backlash (screw slop) by adjusting into the spring tension. It is simply a matter of trial and error, going back and forth between the 4 base leveling screws, and the vial adjusting screw, to get the bubble to level. Once you can get the bubble to level, check out the thing by shooting a mark on a tree or something and stringing a long water level to another tree behind you and twice as far away as the first tree in front of you. This will tell you if the scope is on the same plane as the bubble. If not, you will have to adjust the position of the locking mechanism and go back and forth between it and the vial adjustment. It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is, and the chances are good that it is the vial which is out. Keep your bubbles in your drink and out of your water level. Good luck,Clampman
*Phil, If you want to play around, here is an easy way to do it. Go find a relatively flat, level surface such as a large parking lot. Mark two locations on the surface at least 100' apart. Set the transit up over one point and measure the distance from the point on the ground to the center of your eyepiece. Take a shot on the other point and record the difference in elevation. Now reverse the proceedure and see if the difference in elevation between the two points is the same when the setups are reversed. If they are not, simply adjust the level until you read 1/2 the difference between the two on the rod you are shooting at and your level will be adjusted. This is an old surveyors method that is almost foolproof unless there's something radically wrong with your level.
*Phil,It may not be worth it to have recalibrated. When my first David White site level was knocked over I had it recalibrated. The second time it went out of level I bought a new one. It cost about $50 more than the recal and I didn't have to wait.
*Most transits and levels come with instructions on making adjustments. GLaLonde uses a method that I have seen before. I have a Gurley Instument that required adjustment. It went like this.Level the base plate as best you can in both directions. Line up the bubble vile between two scews and level. Rotate 180 degrees and adjust screws on the bubble vile to correct half of the error that the bubble was out. Rotate 180 degrees (back to original position and relevel. Rotate 180 degrees again. If bubble isn't level, make another correction to bubble vile. This procedure should only take an iteration or two. It's easier to do than to explain. Most surveyors know how and do make these adjustments from time to time.
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Recently bought a transit (David White LT6-900)
at a garage sale but it will not level. Obviously
needs adjusting but how does one do that?