I’m doing a renovation on a 20’s house that has an original laundry room full of tile. The tile is in good shape. backed with plaster and concrete and full coved base to a tile floor. Even has a floor drain.
Problem is the color of this tile. Blue-green-purple…whatever. The designer says the tile has to go.
Short of covering this with a 5ft. high wainscote. Can the color be changed? Thought it might be painted? similiar to tub refinishing. The tile is not ceramic but steel. Any ideas.
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Replies
Ceramic can be painted with the right prep/primer. If the steel is enameled, I honestly don't know. However, XM (is how it's pronounced I think) is a hellacious primer than any top coat will adhere to.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Any prep to the enamel? this can be sprayed on?
I'm sorry, meant to call it porcelain. Like the finish on a steel bathtub or sink. I think it can be used with good results on that finish, but have not tried it yet. It sticks like glue to ceramic. Spraying is the way to go but provide fresh air, that stuff is pretty noxious. I've seen epoxy as a top coat and it is nice, but not necessary.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I have not been satisfied with the results of the tile painting experiments that I've done. I have tried a variety of primers including some that are specifically recommended for tile.
If the tile will not see any abuse, you may get satisfactory results, but I would experiment first. For what it's worth, the aerosol spray primers seem to work about the best, but you may not be able to use it indoors.
-Don
20's enameled metal tile? In good shape? Any chance you could post a picture of it?
If you can't post a pic., is there any sort of design on it or is it just all one (strange from the description) color?
Thanks.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Edited 3/10/2006 10:28 pm ET by philarenewal
As an old house buff I'd like to see that too. Personally I probably wouldn't cover the tile no matter what a designer said, but that's just me. But can we see some pix?-----------------------------------------------------------
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I'll see if I can get some pix of the tile. The tile is 4"X4" and has a 1" high border that runs just below the top, made of 1"X1" tiles. Yes the color is something that is hard to describe.
I am planning on leaving the floor. This is a forest green and white. Like a bowtie pattern. Really different.
I would like to dissagree with the designer. The only problem is the designer is also my wife. I have to admit this is a color not found in nature.
Thanks for all the ideas. I'll check out the products you mentioned. Also do some experimenting with test cases before doing the whole area.
Please send pix. Porcelain enameled steel tile ain't something to be had at the tile place around the corner any more, if you know what I mean. If it's an interesting pattern and you could remove the tiles without damaging them, someone might want to buy it (me).
In any case, if you absolutely have to cover it, please (please, please) try to do it in a way that can be reversed. I bet you'll thank me one day. Sooner or later, it will be the new latest thing.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
I'll hold off till I can send a picture.
Thanks
"I would like to dissagree with the designer. The only problem is the designer is also my wife."
Ah, I see. Yes, that definately puts things into perspective. I'm sure whatever you do, it will come out really nice. So... any plans for a workshop in the basement or garage? LOL! Looking forward to the pix if you get a chance. -----------------------------------------------------------
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You can try to find a local painting contractor that specializes in "Electrostatic Painting".
This process is used to paint steel and looks very nice.
yes you can paint it... yes it should look good... no not rocket science
shot version
clean very well... vent room even better... prep it just like you would when painting a car... use same materials and equipment... any color you have ever seen on a car and then some... use all automotive paints hardners ect... should last 20-30 years even if you run thru the car wash everyday
p
"similiar to tub refinishing"
sounds like it sould be able to be top coated.
I work with a place that does refinishing ... PermaCeram.
as far as I understand ... the end result is pretty much the result of the prep work the tech gives it.
I'd farm this job out to a pro.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You didn't mention anything about grout. Is there any? Or do the tiles just butt together and have some other method of sealing against water?
If it is grouted wouldn't that complicate the painting?
Their is grout. I believe it is unsanded since the grout lines are less than 1/8"
I suppose this might complicate matters? I would need a paint that could cover both.
Personally I am up for leaving it alone as well. However, you do not have to use electrostatic painting. Electrostatic is only a way of electrically charging the paint to improve transfer efficiency from the gun to the ware, further you would need to ground to the steel tile. Basically same as conventional hand held but more expensive equipment. In my opinion, any form of spray painting in that area should be avoided, lots of overspray.
You might want to use the XM primer I think it is toluene based so have plenty of ventilation. Check out PPG Aquapon now available in both solvent and water borne, both say for industrial use only but don't worry. It is a catalyzed Epoxy, I have used this many times, not as difficult as it sounds, and may also work fine without a primer. Epoxy loves to stick. Limited colors. Be sure to use a quality Shark or traction material in the floor portion of the tile. I know you think it will make the floor a little harder to sweep but it is not worth the cost of a broken hip. And I refuse to do a floor without it, only costs a couple of dollars.
What ever you do do, begin by painting a small area even if only a few square inches, let it cure for a couple of days or more then put a piece of masking tape on it and pull it off, all of the paint should remain in place; if not you will have to prime or try a different primer.
Did a brick floor in a kitchen and foyer in white at the request of the HO and totally against the desires of the designer, happy to say even the designer came around and really liked it.
Based on traffic it will have to be redone periodically. But even in a heavy use area I would imagine you will get at least 5 years per application.