I know it won’t work if you want a disposal, but we don’t, so what is wrong with this? Looks OK to me, but we don’t have any plumbing inspections where we are.
I know it won’t work if you want a disposal, but we don’t, so what is wrong with this? Looks OK to me, but we don’t have any plumbing inspections where we are.
Learn how to plan, fabricate, and install a chute to conveniently send your dirty clothes from an upstairs bathroom or hallway to your laundry room below.
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Replies
I like the idea of more room and better performance. I didn't like the way the cobbled together plumbing looks. It's like an ugly mut lap dog--it eats and craps just as fine as a pure bred, but just doesn't look right.
To move the p-trap back out of the way I like the way a handicaped-accessible brass setup looks.
Best of all would be careful preplanning during the framing stage, allowing room in the stud cavity for the p-traps behind an access door. The drain runs out the sink and directly back to the wall. A clean access panel allows pulling the p-trap if needed.
What is the advantage of running the exposed pex up a plywood box with the valves up high? A carefully routed stainless supply line looks much better than a box and bare pex.
A much cleaner look is plumbing out the back of the cabinet up high so it's truely out of the way.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
The big pic meets code, except the plumb quick rubber preformed fittings are not permitted by code on a drainage line, & are garbage, but under a sink before the "P" trap is not a drainage line. The 90's are probably ok, but the rubber "san-tee" has got to go.
Under my sink is a small mechanical room & when I did my remodel I put my foot down with the DW & said that area is mine, MINE, MINE!!!!!!!! I have a 3 stage 5 micron water filter, 1HP garbage disposal, 200 degree insta hot, & a 36 degree water chiller.
I haven't recieved my latest issue yet, so I don't know if the inset pic is a before or after, but it does NOT meet code "S" traps are not legal & are self defeating.
I noticed the Studor vent------ I do not recomend them unless you can't get a vent pipe to the location. Studor vents are mechanical, & all mechanical things eventually fail. Most of the studor vents I run across are due to someone being lazy or cheap or both.
I fear no man & only one GOD. Me
I wonder, if there is so much wrong with the arrangement, code-wise and otherwise, then why in the world does Fine Homebuilding run it?
Shouldn't they vet these topics more thoroughly, when code issues are included?
Sorry, I guess that is a rhetorical Q.
So, we can clear the code issue by using SCH40 PVC fitting (a combo wye & 1/8 bend) instead of the rubber fitting shown at the floor?
The author claims in the article that the flex fittings are used to a.) allow the setup to be able to absorb impact, b.) facilitate easier removal for cleaning, and c.) as shown used at top and bottom, allow the rigid center subassembly to move when bumped.
What is your take on the way the DW drain comes into the arrangement?
Edited 5/20/2007 7:49 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Rex Cauldwell is a Master Plumber, Master Electrician, and wrote a book on House Inspections... I trust that the setup he wrote about is up to snuff. Then again, I haven't given the article a close look yet.
by the way...the inset pic is a "before"Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
The rubber "san-tee" needs to be replaced with a rigid "san-tee" , "wye" & "1/8" bend in a vertical configuration does not meet code for a trap arm to waste & vent connection.
I see no problem with the DW hook-up unless it's behind the wall. Those connections are mechanical & need access.
As far as FHB printing it----- how I stumbled across breaktime, I was looking for a way to send a letter to the editor concerning studor vent that they were promoting in an issue in Oct 05. In the big pic there is not that much wrong that I can see from the pic, just get rid of the preformed rubber.
& remember I go by the UPC which is the strictest of the plumbing codes, it is written by IAPMO ( International Association of Plumbing & Mechanical officials) which I am a member of.I fear no man & only one GOD. Me
I appreciate your feedback. I'm no plumber, but I like to know of these things.
Please clarify for me the use of san-tees versus the single-piece combo.
Are combos only to be used in flatwise situations, and san-tees only vertical?
Is it legit to roll a san-tee 45 or more when venting a sewer line? Or must a wye & 1/8 bend be used?
My locale uses a version of the IPC.
The reason you need a "san-tee" verticly when connect to a trap arm verses a "combo" is a combo connects to the vertical below the top of the side inlet pipe.
That creates an "S" trap which under a heavy flow will siphon itself & defeat the purpose of the trap.
When it is a horizontal line then you need a "combo" on it's back, cause any vent piping below the flood level must be in drainage pattern fittings.
45 degrees or less from a horizontal line is still horizontal & a combo is used & it can be rolled.
45 degrees or less from a vertical is still vertical & then you need a san-tee.
Here's how I like to be a smart azz with new inspectors.
RED = horizontal BLUE = vertical what is the green line
View ImageI fear no man & only one GOD. Me
"what is the green line"A transition
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Rich BeckmanYou are somewhere.
You say the pre formed fittings are garbage.
I have been using these for years without a problem. They may not look good but they make it so easy to service the lines etc that I think its the only way to go that makes sence.
The system he shows is a glorified S trap which is illegal in Georgia, but I think he's smart using the rubber fittings.
The Moving Finger writes; and, having writ,Moves on: nor all your Piety nor WitShall lure it back to cancel half a Line,Nor all your Tears wash out a Word of it." - Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam
I install clean-outs for ease of access.
I could see how one would want to use the rubber fittings for ease of access.
Access of taking apart the system is pretty much a non-issue with me, of all the DWV I do it comes down to 98% cast iron no-hub, & 1.9% ABS/PVC & .1% copper.
I would never burry one of those preformed fittings in a wall or in the ground. When it plugs up the first rooter guy will drive his snake right through it.
The main pic, has a legal "P" trap, the inset pic to the left is the "S" trap I was talking to Gene about, which I have seen more in pics than I ever have in real life, & I don't know where they are legal.I fear no man & only one GOD. Me