Replies

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 20, 2005 04:30pm | #1

   "I am new to this so please do not rip me apart to bad."

   We always leave enough appendages that you can come crawling back for more <G>.

   Foam board is one way to go. I will leave it to other to discuss the details with using.

   But a couple of other options are to get it sprayed with foam. But that might not be practical unless you are able to have a significant amount of the house ready for spraying at one time and then beable to quickly get it weather tight. This is because of the setup cost.

   Dens pack celulose. After the sheathing is up, cut a hole (3'?) in the middle of each bay for the hose and pack it full of celulose.

   BTW, with the walls open, don't forget and maybe add some outlet where needed or a cable/telco/computer lines.

2. 
   doodabug | Jun 21, 2005 01:54am | #2

   I think you can get the insulation out without disturbing the vapor barrior. Just rake it out with your fingers. Install unfaced R-13. I think Typar is easier to work with. I prefer felt paper myself.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jun 21, 2005 03:54am | #3

   gonz.... as long as the bays will be open..

   i'd remove the r7 to a dumpster

   then sheath it with your plywood... mark your stud bays as you go..

    drill a double hole in each bay.. 1/4 up from the bottom ... and 1/4 down from the top..

    then blow dens-pak cellulose in each bay..

    cover the sheathing with tar paper.. and put your siding on

   your dens-pak will give you a true r13 with extremely low air infiltrationMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   gonz | Jun 21, 2005 05:53am | #4

   Mike,

   Thanks for the idea. But do I need to have a paper barrier for the interior of the walls? I was led to believe that a paper barrier was needed for this application. Or will the water barrier on the exterior of the plywood be sufficent?

   Gonz

3. 
   piko | Jun 21, 2005 08:14am | #5

   Interesting Q.  As Kraft paper faced batts have been a no-no here for some time, I wonder as to their effectiveness. So-o-o, I personally would 'out' the extg insulation and paper first. Next cut vapour barrier  into strips about 6" wider than the bays and caulk them onto the stud/drywall intersection with acoustic sealant, stapling the 'wings' to the studs.  (You may need an interior paint that will not transmit moistiure). I'd use new high-density batts that give add'l r-value per inch. If i lived nearby I'd either add styrofoam SM over the sheathing, or (cheaper I suggest) nail 2x2s onto the outside of the studs for an appropriate add'l r-value. Sure, there'd be detailing around the windows, etc., but if you left them in place there'd be deep 'reveals' that would get you away from that boring "windows-flat-with-the-wall" look of so many houses. Make the walls look even thicker, that would.

   Sheathe as per normal - don't forget to leave a min of 1/8"  between sheets (the trick is to tack a nail into the stud pro tem) [dubble dammit - got stuck into italics now!]

   If you use housewrap do a whole wall - not just little bits between the windows that you patch together with tape - and cut the openings in later. At least a 2-person job. Me, I use building paper.

   cheers

   ***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***

   
   

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   Edited 6/21/2005 1:29 am ET by piko

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jun 21, 2005 02:20pm | #6

   gonz.... the "paper" on the inside is for a vapor barrier... it's ineffective at best.. and piecing it makes it more like a seive

   continuous 6 mil poly  with painstaking detailing came close..but it is usually not well installed

   cellulose , dens-pack, can control moisture that gets thru the drywall / plaster

    as long as the moisture source is controlled ( wet basement, leaky roofs, leaky plumbing.. or uncontrolled point sources like indoor pools )..

    bottom line.. rip out the fiberglass , install your sheathing.. top & bottom blow... tar paper & siding Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   gonz | Jun 21, 2005 03:36pm | #7

   Mike and to All,

   Thanks for the inputs. One question, why the aversion to Tyvek / Typar and majority recommondations for tar paper? I have seen archived post's on this subject already. Is the Tyvek / Typar really that inefficient? Or is it more of the old "if it's not broke do not fix it"? Just asking, as it is way easier to learn from asking questions first, than having to do something twice.

   Thanks

   gonz

1. 
   johnnyd | Jun 21, 2005 05:04pm | #8

   THE definitive study on this.....

   http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publications/articles/housewraps_feltpaper_weather_penetration_barriers.html