Replies

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 01, 2003 04:13pm | #1

   It can look great or blah. Depends on the brand. Cultured Stone brand (Owens Corning) is the Cadillac. I'm a fan. See samples before committing. Here's my example...

   View Image

1. 
   JillCottone | Dec 01, 2003 04:17pm | #2

   thank you for your reply!

   Have you ever installed it?  Do you use the same material as laying brick?

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 01, 2003 04:55pm | #3

   Yes, I did my installation of 700 sf. Followed their directions with a few modifications. Like most other things, get the proper substrate, use the recommended materials, install with good workmanship paying particular attention to stone spacing, corners, and alignment. For example, mine is a freestanding f/p with cultured stone all around, and I used the stacked look, so I had to make sure that a line of stone connected back with itself at the starting point, making levelness critical. With some varieties, mortar joints can hide assorted sins and inaccuracies, with the no-joint look, had to be more precise. Owens-Corning offers thorough directions. Can't speak for other manufacturers, though I looked at a coupla others (Coronado was one I remember) and was less than impressed. The Cultured Stone brand had far superior appearance.

2. 
   JimLovatt | Dec 01, 2003 10:27pm | #5

   Hi Jill. As Cloud Hidden said, Cultured Stone is the material of choice. I have done 2 fireplaces. I build the frame with 2x4's and cover with durock cement board. Then I apply a scratch coat of mortar, let dry, then apply the stone, you "butter" the back of the stones and stick them on. Good Luck.

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 02, 2003 03:04am | #10

   I did quite a few of these in Colorado with Cultured stone and agree it is great stuff to work with

   I used a dab of extra portland in my butter. I think it needs the extra "Stickyness" compared to the lime in brick mortar..

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 04:01am | #12

   >I used a dab of extra portland in my butter.

   Me too. Plus some acrylic base coat used with synthetic stucco. Sticks like a perfectly soggy spitball on a blackboard.

3. 
   CapnMac | Dec 01, 2003 11:31pm | #6

   If you are going with tight joints, you may want to work from top down--this prevents getting any thinset on the finished work below.

   If you are mixing either colors or patterns, lay them out on the floor first--if only to speed the assembly (you, or the helper, can hand up materials ad put them right in place.

   Do not forget to order the corner pieces (and don't short yourself either). 

   The only real concern is not chipping the exposed face of the material (or getting mortar on, which then needs chipping off).  But, the effects are only limited by your imagination.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 12:34am | #7

   >If you are going with tight joints, you may want to work from top down--this prevents getting any thinset on the finished work below.

   Except for the styles where they specifically suggest to work bottom-up, such as the one I used. When I did drip the mortar, I found that it cleaned up beautifully if I left it completely alone for maybe 12 hours. After a day it was too hard to remove, and less than a couple of hours and it would smear rather than flake off.

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 02, 2003 01:50am | #8

   What is the approximate sq/ft costs of the type you used (Cultured Stone brand (Owens Corning)).  Roughly how much extra are the corners?

   Thanks.Matt

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 02:25am | #9

   I paid something like $4/sf for the material. Don't recall exactly. Installation woulda more than doubled that. Glad I did my own, but I had some guys on site who had done that before giving good advice.

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 02, 2003 04:00am | #11

   Thanks for the # cloud.  I worked on a project a few years ago where the home's foundation was done with cultured stone - can't remember the brand, but I thought it looked way good!  The price was $13 a SF complete including substrate prep. 

   Matt

1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 04:04am | #13

   >The price was $13 a SF complete including substrate prep. 

   I can believe that. I was quoted $15 for real stone and was told this would come in a little less. By doing it myself, it's one of the areas where I saved a lot of money on the install, though it's something where I had a fairly high comfort zone.

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 02, 2003 04:47am | #15

   Things change in twenty some years. I was geting $6/ft for installed and doing OK.

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 04:53am | #16

   At 7% growth, a dollar will double in 10 years. So your $6 figure is indeed nice by today's standards.

2. 
   OregonBob | Dec 01, 2003 08:46pm | #4

   I've used ceramic tile for a different look.  Haven't tried cultured stone.

3. 
   kestrel | Dec 02, 2003 04:45am | #14

   Hi Jill,

   Here is a shot of Owens Corning cultured stone that my husband and I just finished.  It was the first time we've done much of anything with concrete, and we're not so young, so CS is a good DIY project.

   Our local CS supplier was a great help.  They let us work on one of their display walls with their masons, before we bought the material, so we knew what we were getting into. Ours is exterior on sheathing, so the installation is different from what you would need to do. We applied a lath, and a scratch coat with ready mix first, then buttered the stones and stuck them on.  The stones can be stuck directly onto masonry surfaces, so I would think cleaning the paint off your brick surface and a scratch coat would be sufficient.

   We looked at quite a few homes and businesses that had been done with CS and opted for doing 1/2" grout joints.  The stones are quite irregular, so being careful to not make joints too tight is important, as they are difficult to grout.  My hubby says he is too old to squeeze a grout bag, so we bought a Quickpoint grouting gun which worked extremely well.

   Our supplier is doing interior drystack walls with Liquid Nails adhesive on OSB.  Might work on a fireplace, but I'd check on how heat would affect the construction adhesive first.

   Our cost as $5.50 sq. ft. for stone, but with trim stones and other materials needed, the total probably ran closer to $7.50 sq. ft. 

   Jim and Cloud Hidden -- those are beautiful fireplaces.  We're planning on facing a masonry heater with CS.

   kestrel

   
1. 
   CloudHidden | Dec 02, 2003 04:55am | #17

   Wow, good for you guys! Looks good!

   I've wondered about glue or urethane caulk to adhere the stone. Even did an experiment once to test it. Experiment went fine, but I'd still be nervous. Just more comfortable with the mud.

1. 
   kestrel | Dec 02, 2003 05:13am | #19

   Thanks!

   The window sill stones are attached to an angle iron support with construction adhesive.  That's per Owens Corning's directions.  We used PL Premium.  After that cured, we grouted in the joints. 

   I know the feeling of being more comfortable with the mud.  One of the big reason's we didn't do drystack was being afraid of freezing rain getting between and behind the stones.

   kestrel

1. 
   johnharkins | Dec 02, 2003 05:27am | #20

   I think I gleaned that someone passed on a phone #

   not sure of a # but through http://www.culturedstone.com  you can order a nice disc w/ oodles of pictures and info  -  at least you used to be able to and it's (was?) free

   fine work w/ that stuff you guys  ciao  John

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 02, 2003 05:10am | #18

   Wow - that's quite an ambitious project for a first time out!!!  What you said about squeezing the grout bag sounded a little funny, but once I looked at the pic the additional "toolage" makes perfect sense!

   Looks awesome!Matt

1. 
   kestrel | Dec 02, 2003 05:42am | #21

    Hi Matt,

   Yeah, it's been a project.  We contracted out the slab and then took over, and thus far we've done it all.  I'll have to dig out some older shots and start a thread in the Photo Gallery.

   kestrel