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don’t do it–those products are a waste of time and money, if your intent is to do a good quality job of it. pre-glued veneer sheets and veneer applied with contact cement is bound to fail within a year of seasonal changes.
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I agree with Kerry that the best look would probably be to replace the face frames but that may not be your intent.
I've done cabinet refacing for years(not my main livelyhood) and I actually don't really like it too much. If you're handy and can strip the old ones or replace them, I'd recommend that. An alternative to these is to paint your existing face frames and just order new doors. This is an inexpensive and easy way to dramatically change your kitchen. For example, tomorrow I'm working at a customer's home who's painting their face frames black and buying solid cherry doors stained cherry. It really looks good and doesn't cost a lot and is very easy. If your cabinet frames are in good shape, all of these are better solutions (to me) than veneers.
However, if you do veneer, use a self adhesive veneer AND contact cement. We switched over to that about four years ago and have not had a single call back for loose veneer in about 50 kitchens. Just make sure to sand,wash, and rub face frames with denatured alcohol before applying the contact cement. Make sure you don't screw up the veneer application because once those two surfaces touch, you'll need a hair dryer, razor blade, and about a half an hour to get the piece back off.
Good luck!
CZ
*CMBBAfter quite a few years of refaceing Kitchen cabinets either with lami or veneer with no call backs for instalation problems you can do your's easily. Just take your time and think it through and in the hard spots dry fit it first. One or two things to keep in mind is what do you want to the bottoms of the uppers to look like? the same or flush with a matching finish, appling a 1/4 inck luann panel before you do the face frame will clean up the bottom and always remember to apply the final product on the bottoms first then the finished or exposed sides next and last but not least is the fronts, if you are going to cover the face frame too that is. With some research you can find cabinet shops that will supply you with prefinishedpeel and stick veneer and also with a matching pre finished i/4 inch panels to finish off the bottoms as well as new doors and hardware. Remember to sand off the old finish and wipe down pryor to applying contact cement to the cabinets.You will have to decide what the look is that you want on the finished end panels because you will find that there is a scribe incorperated with the face frame, either remove it with a router or fill in the area with a filler piece. Then apply the final piece of the finished product so that when you do the face frame this gets covered. In cutting the veneer for the face frame purchase a paper cutter for square cuts. Do your verticals first then do the horizontals next, lay them up dry and mark them to fit, then use the paper cutter and leave the pencil mark.The last piece of information that I will leave you with is to remember to provide plenty of ventalation when glueing because of the fumes from the glue and to remember to extinguish all the piliot lites because the fumes are heavier then air and build up. Remeber, when in doubt Dry fit First!
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cmbb,
Joseph Fusco
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*Thanks a bunch guys!
*I have been refacing cabinets for a long time with no call backs... It is a little difficult but very do-able. I have used both 1/8 in plywood on face frames & psa sticky backed veneer.Be sure you clean the cabinets with a non byutal cleaner & then sand lightly & clean again. I apply the 1/8 in plywood with construction adhesive & 1/2 in brads [air]. 1/8 in plywood is routable & psa veneer is not routable. You have to cut it with a razor or utility knife. I get my stuff from Keystone Wood Specialities Inc.. 1-800-233-0289.. They also have a instructional video. I buy my doors, drawer fronts & veneer pre-finished from them.. Their finish is very high quality..[ I hate finishing cabinets ] Finishing is a real bummer.. If you have any questions- email me at [email protected] and I will be glad to answer any questions... L. Siders
*Cmbb, I've never used the pressure sensitive veneer, but the pre-glue real wood veneer is a breeze. I'd call it a do-it-yourself project. Easy to apply with a household iron and easy to cut with a utility knife. This stuff is bullet-proof so to speak, I've had refaced kitchens out their for years and they still look like new!Check out Fine Homebuilding #8l about kitchen refacing. Herrick Kimball talks about pressure sensitive veneer and I show how to iron on real wood. Herrick's also written a good book on the subject.Easy is the word for this subject and I'd definitely recommend recycling your 20 year old kitchen in this manner.
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My kitchen cabinets are 20 yrs. old and am thinking of installing new doors and veneering the frames. Either the pressure sensitive or glue + veneer. Does anybody have any suggestions good or bad, or which type of veneer to use?
*Select your new cabinet doors, draw fronts and hinges from a supplier to ensure the fit of the new face frames. Making face frames is very easy using the Kreg pocket screw tool. I would rip off the old face frame and use either biscuits or nails to apply the new face frame to old cabinets. prep teh old surface for new fihish. I use 13/16” material for my face frames. Seems easy but a lot of work.
*You will be the one (or your wife) to decide what style, color, etc., your new doors and fronts will be but, before you do anything with the frames, first determine what they are made of. I've seen perfectly good frames ruined by unnecessary rework. Your frames may be hardwood (oak, maple) that just needs to be cleaned or if painted, stripped and refinished. Never use the wrecking bar if you don't have to. The closest I've come to veneer is edgebanding hardwood faced plywood for various projects. Someone else will have to jump in here about veneering until I add that skill to my stable.Enjoy the challenge. Ralph
*don't do it--those products are a waste of time and money, if your intent is to do a good quality job of it. pre-glued veneer sheets and veneer applied with contact cement is bound to fail within a year of seasonal changes.