*
Hello all,
We are mounting the cabinets in the kitchen. Our vent hood will share a wall with the garage, so access will not be a problem. I am wondering if it is better to build it, and gather all the components, or just buy one and stick it up there. Any thoughts?
As always, much thanks to this incredible building community!
– Gary
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
*
You need to give more info. Are you talking about a 6' commercial hood, or a little baby hood? Are you building it from cab stock with a blower or rolled stainless? Tell us what you are talking about and maybe we can help.
SHG
*Is there one commercially available that fits and does what you need and looks the way you want? If so, buy it. If not, is there one that's close and can be modified easily? If not, build it.-- J.S.
*Yes yes of course... It will be built out of cabinet stock. The opening will be approximately 36 inches by 30 inches over the stove. Ascetically it will be the same regardless of what solution we settle on... I am wondering if it is better to purchase a unit that sits inside the housing that gets built or buy the components (lighting, fan, etc.) and install them separately. There are no cabinets above the unit, it will slope up to the ceiling. Please let me know what other info I can provide.THANKS!!!
*Hoods are right over a stove-top fire, and are supposed to be non-flammable. That is, you shouldn't just build it out of wood.
*Gary, I built my own. Its above a Gemini range. I wanted a custom one with some extra bells and whistles (extra built in lights, etc) and I wanted it to go the whole way to the ten foot ceiling so self-construction was the only way to go. Used oak, pecan and mahogany. Bought the Broan fan and light kit made to fit into custom built hoods. I think it was around $55.00Mike
*There are a whole variety of units to be installed into a hood housing. Thermador makes a pretty good one. It makes no sense to do it yourself as the combo units work better, have all the right buttons in the right places, have a single electrical feed and are cheaper than buying all the parts separately.SHG
*I would think a sealed metal unit installed in the pretty box would be way easier to clean down the road.
*Don't all electrical decices need a ULA or CSA approval sticker on them to keep your insurance valid?
*I have custom built a stainless hood with an FX series in-line blower made by Fantech. The hood is awaiting fabrication to receive the filter/light panel, anyone have any leads as to where I could purchase such. I may have to fabricate this as well, but it has saved much money vs. a $1,500 to $2,000 stainless island hoods.
*Bakei Don't all electrical decices need a ULA or CSA approval sticker on them to keep your insurance valid? NO.I have looked at my policies over a 20 year period with 3 different companies and they have not had any such requirement.The closes that they have had (and they all used very similar wording) Is;b "EXCLUSIONS: .. Neglect of an Insured to use all reasonable meas to protect covered property at and after the time of loss, or when property is endangered by a covered loss under .."Even if it did, how does that affect this discussion. First of all UL has a number of different labeling and testing programs for many different items used many different ways. You could buy a UL labeled fan and lights and install it in an all wood hood.Likewise you can buy an UL approved hood assembly and just vent the duct into the soffit. In both cases you would have UL lables, but neither would be safe.
*Bill: The origional poster never included his location, I know rules change from state to state and country to country so keep in mind I am writting this from Canada. Here ANY electrical device must have a CSA approval sticker on it's caseing along with it's electrical ratings, not just on the the individual parts, meaning if you build any device and all parts have the sticker except the case your insurance can be voided. As electricians we are NOT ALLOWED to install or wire anything missing these stickers. The only way around the issue here is to have a CSA inspector approve the device (which can be very costly)
*Gary, here is a stock wood hood from a cabinet company. We had it cut the width down to fit in the very narrow kitchen. It used a Broan fan/light insert.
*Here's another one, formed in copper with a verdigris finish, with the same Broan fan/light insert.
*Thanks Mike! Did you have to put some type of liner inside the wooden hood, or does anyone know of a spray product that could be used as a fire retardant and make it easier to clean?Cheers!
*Gary,I would put a liner in. I've got a similar situation right now with a custom hood cover. I drew up the dimensions of the liner and a HVAC contractor I know is going to bend it for me. There's several low-cost fan/light inserts which have the CFM I want. The inserts from HD just don't have the features I want and they're expensive. Darrell
*Gary, there is no special liner, just the factory-applied laquer finish. I think the code is combustables are supposed to be 36" above the burners. The insert takes up almost all the available space, so there really isn't much wood exposed underneath the hood. Wouldn't be a bad idea to add some sheet metal though.These blowers are very powerful, one (as I recall) was 800 cfm and one was 1200 cfm. On the highest setting they are loud, but suck a lot of heat away.One note--if you make your own wooden hood, use rounded corners. I have a few scars from those sharp edges. The gymnastics required to make these hoods work is surprising. Nearly impossible to assemble. Be warned!
*I like this thread. I did a full basement remodel that had no straight line to vent anything anywhere. Got a Fantech dryer booster and an external fan for the range. Its the wall mount style. Since its outside as it the dryer booster there is very little interior noise. If you use a high cfm fan, you must go larger on the duct work, not just to carry the air, but decrease the noise. Too much cfm without a large enough pipe and there is a load roar. When the inspector came and saw the Fantech he peed his pants and started screaming code in my face. I bit my lip and pulled off the cover of the fan where thank goodness there was a UL label. He signed and stormed off. Stick with one inspector and get a phone number and show him what you want in advance. This approach allows for his input before you throw a new idea(bomb) in his lap!
*
Hello all,
We are mounting the cabinets in the kitchen. Our vent hood will share a wall with the garage, so access will not be a problem. I am wondering if it is better to build it, and gather all the components, or just buy one and stick it up there. Any thoughts?
As always, much thanks to this incredible building community!
- Gary