When applying wainscot to an exterior wall with fiberglass bats, what’s to keep potential hot air from entering through the board joints (especially since they won’t be nailed tight)?
Just seems to me that it (hot air) is gonna get in the wall cavity (even if I did a sound job of installing the glass, and tyvek) and seep through the boards.
I have two exterior walls that will be tongue and groove beaded board, and another full height wall that will be reclaimed tongue and groove heart-pine 1×6 (this one concerns me the most since the boards are truly distressed)
I’m sure the folks up north may have encountered this with the cold air.
Maybe I am just over-thinking this, is it negligible?
Any tips and options would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Replies
sheetrock
Another vote for sheeting the wall first. Why apply the board or wainscot w/o it?
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
And nail the boards to?
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"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
To whatever you deem necessary to keep them up on the wall.
Glue and pin wainscot to sheetrock.
or blocking covered with sheetrock.
or plywood/osb sheeting if you have your heart set on not using sheetrock.
Is this on that shed I think I remember you building a couple years ago?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Ha, no
This is the house addition/renovation
Good memory though
I did think of using some 3/8 or 1/2 (dirt cheap right now) osb or something intead. I do not not know what is "right" just trying to explore options and eliminate any and all heat source.
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"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
Edited 12/27/2007 12:46 pm ET by Sailfish
At a minimum, staple up some polyethylene sheeting, to stop the drafts.
Did you install blocking in the walls for nailing?
Yes. Sheetrock. Then glue (liquid Nails or equal) and nail. Cap it with a two piece cap.
One advantage of sheetrocking the wall is you don't have to figure out exactly where and how high your wainscoting will be until you're ready for it.
Runnerguy
are you speaking of the exterior surface of this exterior wall? I know you are in Florida and the exterior ios where the hot air is.
RE the compare to cold ai4r up here, we use Tyvek or tarpaper
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No the interior surface of an exterior wall.
What I was saying was that I have tyvek on the outside, fiberglass insulation in the stud bays.
Is that gonna be suffice or will the heat/hot air still radiate through the joints?
Every house/apt I have ever lived in down here the sun facing walls, when standing next to them would have heat (for whatever reason). I am trying (within reason) to make sure I can reduce this heat as much as possible.
I have no problem drywalling, and gluing the wainscot and the 1x6's I mentioned if that will be the best, economical option.
I am somewhat hesitant with gluing to drywall though, especially with the heat. Will this allow for expansion/contraction? I thought that wainscot should be nailed like to wood?? Not doubting anyone, just makiing sure I do this once.
Not correcting anyone
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Edited 12/27/2007 4:02 pm ET by Sailfish
Edited 12/27/2007 4:26 pm ET by Sailfish
I just did a room with bead board over drywall in Pensacola. About 24 feet of wall on the sun-facing side. 3 nails per board, about 30 inches long, liqid nail on back- just small dots behind the nails.
The top and bottom of the beaded plank is tongued to fit into the top and bottom rails. After 18 months, I see no problems. Course its a lot cooler up here than in Tampa.
so it sounds like you are more concerned with radiant heat than with convective heat gain or loss. is that right?Do you have space to be able to apply a sheet of foil faced foam and then firr over it?
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I hadn't thought of that.
1/2" is the thinnest right?
Johns Mansville recommends drywall over the top of it. Would the wood count?
Does applying that on the interior here where the warm moist air resides out of doors, have much potential for collecting water vapor?
As for space:
The wall I want to finish with the reclaimed 1x6, I could easily add the 1/2 foil foam, fir the wall, build out the window, and then apply the boards.
On the wainscot walls, if I add the foil/foam, I guess I could do the same thing: Foil the whole wall, drywall the uppers and then fir lower for the bead board. If I do this I would have to extend the windows as well.
Does all this sound like overkill?
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Edited 12/27/2007 5:56 pm ET by Sailfish
Asa general rule, you would want radiant foam on the exterior surfaces down your way - not because of the radiant, but it acts as a VB also.So - with these walls, are they finished exterior and open interior now?
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I'm thinking ( this is theory only ) that if you use the Thermax on inside of studs with a furring strip over it, that this could help with buffering the VB problem.But if your studs are wide open and no insulation in yet, just cut the foil faced foam to fit between studs, keeping it 1/2" in from the ext surface, then place the FG bats over it, then your interior finish
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Just wondering why if the walls are open now you wouldn't put in some horizontal nailers (blocking) for wainscoting and have something strong to fasten to. Also, and I'm no code guru, but I believe that sheetrock is required behind wainscoting/paneling for fire code purposes. Again, I'm not sure if thats true but it makes sense to me and I've always done it. Maybe someone else could chime in on that.
good luck........
I'll check on code for sure.
Then explore all options.
The foil would add I think another r-3 of value. So its not a bad idea.
If I have to, i'll ad dblocking for nailers, throw drywall up and be done with it.
I probably did over think this whole thing.
Thanks for all the ideas and input everyone.
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A recent job had sheetrock only above the wainscot. Behind the wainscot they used OSB, the same thickness as the rock above.