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Water "resistant" interrior…

| Posted in General Discussion on September 16, 2000 02:51am

*
I need some creative input. In a few weeks, I’ll be helping my mechanic buddy finish off his yet to be built new garage. He just asked about putting green board up for a semi water resistant wall finish, and standard drywall above it. I’m thinking there’s gotta be a more long term solution. He’ll be washing and hosing off the occasional car inside, and expects the walls to get splashed in the process. He also realizes this is the inside of a working garage, and wants to keep the costs as low as possible. One thought was glued and edge capped abitibi…the white board stuff. Another was cement board, and maybe a finish…maybe not. How would exposed cement board hold up? Then I thought just exterior ply with a good coat of oil primer and high gloss exterior paint…….I even thought of the Onodura(sp?) roofing, you know the plastic wavy stuff.
What would you do? Appearance not much of concern as durability. Money no object, aside from the fact he’s got little money left! My skills come in on the barter system…..great timing…the van’s inspection is up in Oct., and I need new brakes all the way around, a little de-rusting down low on the body and the heater wasn’t blowing too hot at the end of last winter! Help me make the trade guys! What plain as day solution am I missing?
I’m also thinking the cement board with a parge coat of something. All I really need is to go from the floor up about 3 or 4 ft the whole way around. Thanks, Jeff

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Replies

  1. Guest_ | Sep 13, 2000 03:52pm | #1

    *
    Jeff,

    Wallpaper.

    1. Guest_ | Sep 13, 2000 03:56pm | #2

      *How about sheets of laminate? Mebbe 10-15 years ago, my brother's boss needed a 'splash' area in his commercial film (movie, not snapshot) lab. He ran his business (sports films) from the basement, with a full size 16mm? developer machine. Hazardous chemicals by the drumful, and handling those drums and cleaning the equipment needed protection for the walls. (I'd hate to see the disclosure for that house) So they basically made a large kitchen backsplash in a corner, 4' h x 8' x 4' I think. Sheet of basic formica @ HD runs $45-50, so I'd guess that you could run it all around to 4 ft. height for fairly cheap, fairly durable, and kinda attractive to boot.

      1. Guest_ | Sep 13, 2000 03:59pm | #3

        *Seriously??This might be a good opportunity to practice mortar bed tiling (not mastic). Pretend it is one of those high end shower jobs that must not leak and must look top drawer. (wear your best black sleeveless teeshirt)

        1. Guest_ | Sep 13, 2000 11:44pm | #4

          *Jeff,2 things come to mind. FRP glued to drywall (hold that up a half) with the battens, end caps, corner trims horizontal to 4ft. Or durock direct to studs, horizontal (4x8's available?) skimmed with an ok to water compound (exterior), then apply a knockdown finish with the same stuff. Could batten the joint between the durock/drywall or just texture up to the ceiling. Saw the last one on a diner, and it's held up. You figure the cost. Might want to get the brakes done b/4 you put all that durock in the van.Next Monday, someone is gonna be smilin. Here's hoping it isn't you!

          1. Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 01:58am | #5

            *Both ideas good Cal, but what exactlt is FRP? and skim with a what? An ok to water compound (exterior)? Please translate!....don't worry about the brakes, he's at the bottom of the hill. The new garage should stop me. Jeff Bradshaw

          2. Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 02:58am | #6

            *Jeff,When I do a metal roof I get flashing the same color,it is the metal before it goes through the rollers. About 5' and whatever length you want. 26 ga. is pretty stiff.KK

          3. Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 04:00am | #7

            *jeff,FRP...fibre reinforced p-something...panel,plastic....you know, the stuff in comm. kit. walls, food processing plants, pebble finish plastic paneling. The cadilac if the white shiny masonite is the yugo.The stuff to skim with would be an exterior joint compound. Treat it like you would reg. interior compound, and then knock it down.Comprende? (sp)calvin hill, I'll go over the middle...

          4. Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 05:46am | #8

            *Capish(sp?)! Thanx, Jeff Swan

          5. Guest_ | Sep 14, 2000 05:48am | #9

            *That may work also...I'm guessing as long as it's not scratched it won't rust, and he could sand and paint it if it does. Jeff

          6. Guest_ | Sep 15, 2000 09:40pm | #10

            *JeffSaw this product that sounds like just what you need... Poly-Max polyethylene boards. UV inhibitors, withstands frequent power washing. Call TekSupply 1-800-TEKSUPPLY 1-800-835-7877HTH,Phil

          7. Guest_ | Sep 16, 2000 02:51am | #11

            *Jeff, Plywood w/ good paint. Relatively cheap, easy, straightforward. Easy to touch up. Nice thing about it, it provides a little more to fasten hooks, various automotive type stuff to if you miss the studs. Tough too- won't be putting any floor jacks and other equipment through without some serious effort. Hell, I covered the inside of my garage with OSB top to bottom and, for my purposes anyway, that works just fine. If you want the really heavy duty look, you could lay galv. metal roofing horizontally (lapped correctly) and lap 'rock over that when you get to the height you want. Sam

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