Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 03, 1999 07:43pm | #1

   *
   I and many others would like to hear about specific building methods and learn of it's merits in both saving in fuel costs, economy in building, difficulties involved, longevity of components, ability to protect wood structure from rot and ice dams, and lastly quality of indoor air.

   Lets all particapate politely as possible respecting our differences and tell a few good jokes if you have nothing nice to say!!!!

   Crossing my fingers, near the stream,

   J

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 1999 06:57am | #2

   *Jack,I for one will stick with my post of Mar. 18,1999 in response to the last bait you threw out about this, "Name The Best 2x6 Construction System, Based on Cost to build and Heat." Panelmal

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 1999 08:09pm | #3

   *Panelmal,I just finished reading Frame Buiding News and sent in for SIP info....I will have to build with it soon or at least drop by some project sites to check into them...There are two manufacturers near by in Vermont and as I have time this summer and fall I will be visiting their factories and sites....Fred...What do you think about SIP's made in VT verses new construction with netted DP and possible inside or outside layer of foam sheet...What would you use for a wall and ceiling system in new construction?Thanks, near the stream,J

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 02:03pm | #4

   *Fred,AMF Corp. claims resistance to ant and termite infestation through the use of borates. Do you have any experience with borate treated foams?Hoping it'll work,Jerry

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 05, 1999 05:52pm | #5

   *Is untreated foam any worse than untreated wood as far as the bugs diet?

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 01:54am | #6

   *What is SIP?

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 06:52am | #7

   *What I've read of the treatment is that it probably won't last as long as the building should.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 05:24pm | #8

   *Thanks Fred,How about the blue or pink stuff vs. beadboard?Ron

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 07, 1999 11:39pm | #9

   *Back to the origional thread.....My prefered wall is 9.5 inch TJI's 24" o.c. as wall studs. (I found a source of 7.5" wood I-beams that I will be trying on my next job.) I use conventional cellulose not dense pack. I use trusses or TJI's in the roof, also 24" o.c. I use OSB sheathing with Typar or tarpaper or some other housewrap mostly as a weather guard durring construction. I use strips of ice and water shield around the windows and doors and whenever possible I use copper for the flashing. I use ice and water shield at least for the first 3 feet on the roof and in all valleys and usually weave the valleys. I am real picky about flashing. I use a 6 mil poly vapor retarder with all seams caulked with Tremco. The poly is carried continiously from the foundation thru the band joists and ties into the ceiling poly. The band joists are set back and insulated with extruded foam board. The foundation is insulated with at least 3" of foam above grade and 2" or more to at least 2 feet below grade. I prefer PT wooden foundations where soil conditions allow it. I do not use recessed lights in the upper floor. All penetrations are sealed. I have also used SIPs and double walls where appropriate. HHI is between 1.0 and .35.