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I hope this is not too late for your application. I used the same stuff. It cures slowly, more than 24 hours for final firmness, but I think it will not be damaged by the pressure of air infiltration. Only thing: it is like a sponge. It absorbs water and holds it. I am hoping it will not hold on to wall cavity condensation. I used this and not polyurethane foam because of expansion problem and urethane was harder to apply and wasted more. I bought both product from HomeDepot. Check these sites for alternative supply, although I haven’t used them yet and not sure about the price: www.progressivebuilding.com and www.fomo.com/products/handi-foam/hf1kdisp.htm
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I hope this is not too late for your application. I used the same stuff. It cures slowly, more than 24 hours for final firmness, but I think it will not be damaged by the pressure of air infiltration. Only thing: it is like a sponge. It absorbs water and holds it. I am hoping it will not hold on to wall cavity condensation. I used this and not polyurethane foam because of expansion problem and urethane was harder to apply and wasted more. I bought both product from HomeDepot. Check these sites for alternative supply, although I haven't used them yet and not sure about the price: http://www.progressivebuilding.com and http://www.fomo.com/products/handi-foam/hf1kdisp.htm
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I threw away my "test can" of DAP latex foam. I'll stick to the low expansion poly foam - the stiff has much better adhesion & minimal water absorption (from what I can tell).
*You bring up an excelent point. To further illustrate the point I will use an automotive analogy and hope I don't get flamed for bringing vehicles into a housebuilding forum. LOLYou have seen those older vehicles driving around with bad rust problems along the wheelwells and sometimes around the windows, right? What causes that rust? Water and air is the shortest and most logical answer, but there is something else at work here. Dirt. And the trim that holds it in place. The dirt acts like a sponge. Soaking up water and holding it against the metal of the car. In the wheelwell, there is another culprit besides the trim... As the vehicle gets older, the owner has to replace the shocks and possibly other front end items. The owner/mechanic usualy finds it much easier to remove the liners from the inside of the wheelwells, and they usualy do not get replaced. This leaves a ledge for the road dust and water from the tires to land and collect on. Then you can guess the rest of the story.The moral of the story ? If the water were able to just drain away, it would. But with the dirt being held in place and acting like a sponge, the water it collects is kept in contact with the body of the vehicle, where it eventualy makes its way through the finish, (Helped along there by the abrasiveness of the dirt as well), and to the metal. The latex foam does hold water like a sponge, and I would not be surprised to find this to be the main reason they warn against using it near or at grade. There's a lot more water collecting there, and less chance of the foam releasing much of it except by capilary action. Since the water stays there for quite a while it has a much better chance of ekeing not out the bottom, but into the wood surrounding the foam. Whereas water plus metal equals rust, water plus wood equals rot. Poly foam would and does act as a sponge as well, but there is a difference. Have you ever used two rags to wipe up some water and noticed later that one got dry a lot faster than the other? The reason is probably because you used a polyester or nylon rag and a cotton one. The cotton is more user friendly when it comes to picking up a spill, In that it picks up more water and faster. It also holds that water better and longer. The poly foam will soak up less water in the first place. It will also tend not to hold onto that water, but will let it slide as gravity pulls the water in the path of least resistance. What holds the water in the poly is all those little bubbles in the foam. The material of the foam itself will not hold water. The opposite is the case with the latex foam. While the bubbles do hold water, they will not hold it for long before the foam itself sucks it up and holds on to it.The poly foam may be more of a messmaker, but anywhere that I use a foam, I will be continuing to use the poly.
*I found it to be a great temporary sealer on my old house work - especially for drafty windows that I won't get to until next year (or the following year). I also used it when I was doing some work during the winter on the ceiling and needed to seal up some penetrations to keep from blowing all my heat into the attic until I could get back the following week to finish it up. As you noted, it peels off easily and the "stain" that it leaves can be covered with paint.John H
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Lured by the hope of "no mess, easy clean up", I tried a can of DAP foam on some scraps of material as a test (drywall, wood, metal framing connector).
Even when cured (24 hrs), it has the consistency of shaving cream. It easily breaks off the test scraps, leaving a gummy white residue. It seems that a good draft through any crack that you'd be trying to seal, would cause the latex foam to break its adhesion.
By comparison, the low expansion polyurethane foam stuck tenaciously to all the materials (plus it cures much faster).
So is there any application where the latex foam could actually substitute for poly?? It doesn't seem so.
*...and I worry that it will be tasty to bugs or mold or something (the container says, "not for use at or near grade").I tried some anyway (warm water and soap clean up too handy to pass up).Really interested to see how it fares, but does seem too good to be true.