Replies

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Mar 12, 2002 06:38am | #1

   *
   I don't think I've ever seen a wall angle with factory holes in it.

   To fasten wall angle and not have to worry about whether or not your nail hits a stud or other backing material, follow these steps.
   1. Snap a chalk line as a guide for the top of the wall angle.
   2. Drive 3-4 short nails (2d or 3d) just to hold the angle in position for step 3
   3. Drive 1" U-nails at a 45º angle down over the top of the wall angle. One leg going into the drywall and the other over the lip of the angle. About 16" OC should be enough.

   This technique effectively clamps the angle to the wall. This might take a little practice but when you get it right it is VERY strong and will support much more weight than required for the suspended grid and panels. This method is used primarily with metal stud walls.

   You could just hit every stud with a short nail, if you have wood studs, but you may run into a commercial metal stud job down the road and learning how to hang grid a couple of different ways could be handy.

   Enjoy.

1. 
   Tim_Kline | Mar 12, 2002 06:39am | #2

   *Metal Studs - #9 fence staplesConcrete Block - hardened pin nailsWood Studs - any drywall or roofing nail

1. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 12, 2002 01:50pm | #3

   *Ralph, the grid system that 84 lumber sells has little rectangular holes in it. it's chicago systems or something like that. thank you for the info.

1. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 12, 2002 01:51pm | #4

   *Thank you Tim.

1. 
   Nathan_Meredith | Mar 12, 2002 11:36pm | #5

   *Steve,I agree with Tim. I use my Bostitch underlayment stapler in metal as well as wood, and a Hilti gun in block or concrete. With the stapler, you can get into the corner of the factory break and "pull" the rail if there's a wave in the wall.Nathan

2. 
   Dave_Richeson | Mar 13, 2002 01:38am | #6

   *Steve,Years ago I added a Whitney Jr. punch to my list of tools for grid work. I don't have any idea what they cost now, but it beats the heck out of drilling holes for pop rivets and screws when that needs to be done. Another item is a set of cam type mini clamps. They have rubber pads, so they don't mar the grid. About the only thing I use the cordless drill for is driving the eye screws for the wire and screws for the wall mold if I am on metal studs. Buy a couple of spools of jet line also. It has been around a lot longer than lasers, and is a whole lot cheaper.Dave

3. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 13, 2002 04:52am | #7

   *ok here goes my ignorance once again but what's a "Whitney Jr. punch" is that like the thing that is used to punch together metal studs?

4. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 13, 2002 04:54am | #8

   *yepper, anderson doesn't have the little tiny holes. just the chicago metallic brand I guess.I keep learnin' and learnin', maybe some day I might actually know something.nah

5. 
   Tommy_B. | Mar 13, 2002 06:00am | #9

   *Steve,I was looking for a way to speed wall angle installation, and have found my Impulse stapler works well for this task. Any stapler would do.I like the tip using the fence staples too. I've always used screws into metal studs.I also use the little claps they sell for drop ceiling installation, the same company makes a cutter for the edges of drop in style tiles.Tom

6. 
   Dave_Richeson | Mar 13, 2002 11:37am | #10

   *A Whitney Jr. punch is a hand operated metal punch. It has dies and punch heads that screw and slide into the body of the tool. Slide the metal into the font of the tool and squeese the handle. Presto, instant hole, with no burr. Clamp two pieces together and repeat the process and add a pop rivet. The dies and punch heads go from a little less than 1/8 inch to almost 1/2 inch. There is not a great deal of reach from the edge of a piece of metal, but it sure is great forreally near edge work.I got mine orignaly when I was installing storm windows, and long before cordless drills were worth an investment. My Whitney, a Yankee screwdriver and caulk gun were all I needed. While other guys were struggling with cords and drills, I was installing storms. At $3.00 a window you had to be pretty fast to make any money. Ah, those were the bad old days!Dave

7. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 14, 2002 05:08am | #11

   *Tommy is that impulse a narrow crown or medium?I am using screws on the metal studs for the job I'm doing right now but narrow staples for the one wall where I boxed in the steel beam with wood.

8. 
   Steve_Merrette | Mar 14, 2002 05:11am | #12

   *With a stapler and metal studs what's holding the staple from pulling out? nails and staples don't hold well in metal studs as you all know. help me understand this.

9. 
   4Lorn | Mar 16, 2002 06:41pm | #13

   *Around these parts they use the fence staples going in at an angle that fastens to the drywall. It looked cheesy to me but it seems to work. This was used in residential, commercial and even state jobs so the local authorities seem to approve.

10. 
    Steve_Merrette | Mar 16, 2002 07:38pm | #14

    *I used the air stapler to fasten the wall angle to a wood box in around an I-beam. the problem I had was trying to hang one leg over the rail to go into the wood and the other through the rail. the staples would just fold on the metal and go into the wood which didn't do sqaut to hold anything. I ended up adjusting my drive depth and just putting both legs of the staple through the rail. that seemed to work real well. now another ignorant question. what's a fence staple?

11. 
    Tim_Kline | Mar 17, 2002 02:45am | #15

    *Steve, If you are shopping at Home Depot you won't find things like this there. Go to the oldest lumberyard or your local commercial ceiling grid supply yard and ask. They are U shaped staples made from heavy wire and have sharp points on both ends. They take a bit of practice to use efficiently. The idea is that you drive the staple through the wall angle and the drywall on a flat angle so that the U forms a clamp and squeezes the angle tight against the drywall. You are not driving the staple into a stud. In fact, you want to avoid the studs. Being close to them helps eliminate bounce. Even experienced pros often puncture a hole in the wall angle with a punch first.Feel free to use drywall screws when fastening wall angle to wood surfaces.

12. 
    Steve_Merrette | Mar 17, 2002 08:26am | #16

    *Tim although I must admit that I do some of my shopping at HD, I usually go to 84 lumber for most of my stuff. I have many many things to learn. so please keep on teaching me. one day all of you will be proud of me.