So I’m building home number 4 and need some GC advice. I constantly struggle on the handoff from my drywallers and carpenters to my painters.
I’m doing Standard level 4 finished drywall. drywallers return come once and point up after the painter primes the walls & puts one coat on ceiling.
My carpentry crew then installs all base/crown etc to trim out house. Painter returns, fills nail holes, putties the base/door trim intersections, mitered door/window corners, caulks, sands, etc. Then paints trim followed by ceilings and walls.
Inevitably, wall/trim dings and dents happen after the prime coat and pointup but before painter has prepped trim.
Across 3 painters, they all tell me they want extra for any drywall pointup work, and always act like they’re doing so much extra carpentry repair…. “all the extra puttying/sanding trim work”.
…recently one painter said my carpenters don’t install great seams (like it’s excessive). I see a 32nd or a 64th gap in mitered trim joints. My carpenters would also throw a speed square at my neck if I asked them to get out a spatula and make the face of the base molding perfectly flush to door trim. I know they give me best efforts to minimize the painter’s work, but the two surfaces are alwaya within 1/16-1/8.
I don’t want to see mitered corners in trim, but do I need to compromise?
What am I doing wrong? Is my problem my process? Is it my painters? Is it not defining scope of work right for my subs? Should it cost extra? Am I not paying enough?
My painter on this job was given 7k for labor on a 2000 sf house with 10 colors, crown throughout house. Also, should I be providing tape and plastic to painters?
I paid my drywallers $50/sheet l&m.
My carpenters are 30-40 an hour depending on if they’re leads or helpers.
Replies
If all trim is being paint we consider that paint grade. Within paint grade there’s more allowance of wider joints as you have to caulk all joints anyway for a pro finish. A stained finish requires tighter allowances. The gaps you are describing are within paint grade tolerances. The trim carpenters will price and install according to the finish tolerances, unless told to exceed tolerances. Most of my painters tell me that on their end stain and paint are about the same costs. That being said, every job is different. Example, a lacquered paint job takes more work, so cost more. I’ve found most painters and drywallers provide 1st touchup at no charge, but if they have to keep coming back for someone’s negligence it’s not fair that they work for free.
As far as cost and who’s responsible for what that is what contracts and written agreements are for. If it’s not written anyone can claim whatever they want. Even something as simple as a text message or email will force people to keep their word as there is tangible proof. You have to be very cautious when hiring subs for the first time. I’m very direct with them and do not hesitate to tell them at first meeting what I expect from them. I make them sign off (or respond to email/text) an agreement before they start work. If they have an issue with that they can walk. You have to assume no one understands the words coming out of your mouth when you are a GC. It must always be written and you must always provide proper blueprints etc for people to do their work. It does get a lot easier once you find a sub you can stick with. Honestly, my sub selection pool is quite small after being in business for awhile, so can get away with less paperwork. My subs know what to expect and same for me in return. I consider them all honest guys and we look out for one another. Always best to stick with subs you know have proven track record.
jlyda has it right. Find a good crew, always be ready, except the same from them. If you have to, get them all together, grab them by the throats and get them working together so you all can be proud of the finished product.
And what the heck is “point up”?
And, why can’t the finish guys see cocked base or open miters? I’d be embarrassed to leave something you can see from the floor.