Hi everybody,
The thread on re-caulking a bath tub got me thinking about my old, cheap, caulk gun. I’ve never used anything else, and I’m wondering what everybody is using?
Will spending more money on a caulk gun give me better control over the flow or something?
Englighten me.
Justin Fink – FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Replies
just get the Cox guns from England at what ever they cost...
they have some serious HD ones... self releasing... lots of models to chose from..
they're available in metal or plastic bodies...
5 to 20 bucks... and the real deal is definitely better and often cheaper than the off shore knock offs...
debate over..
now get out there and get a real caulk gun..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I got the Cox, orange with black handles. About $15 - 20, IIRC. Way better than the sheet metal cheapies. I do have to release it manually, but that's just a matter of practice to get it to stop at the right amount.
-- J.S.
A second on the Cox. I have 3 or 4 of the small ones and they work great. I tried two of the large ones and they both jammed up almost immediately. Wassup with that?
may be the style.. self releasers in the large ones seem to jam...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 9/20/2006 2:54 pm by IMERC
so are these more expensive guns going to stop the flow of caulk when I take my hand off the handle? or do I still need to release it from the back of the gun to keep it from oozing all over my boots?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Cox guns come either way..
manual or self releasing...
if you over pressure the tube of caulk.. yur on yur own... it will stop flowing when the tube internal pressures bleed off...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
that would be operator error, either way.
have you notice how much less pressure must be applied to get the same flow rate out of the tube with one of the english guns?
the cheap ones should have carpal tunnel damage warning labels.
I have a Cox and a knockoff. they look almost identicle, except the knockoff has a thingy for puncturing the tube.been using the knockoff a bit and when hitting the release it seems to release too much.paid $5 for the knockoff
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter WFR
good way to put it..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Used to be you could buy the Cox at Lowes/HD in metal. Check with a waterproofing or sealant distributor in your area. I think I only paid about $7-8 for mine, which might be expensive compared to cheapies, but I wouldn't consider that an expensive tool.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
"o are these more expensive guns going to stop the flow of caulk when I take my hand off the handle? or do I still need to release it from the back of the gun to keep it from oozing all over my boots?"In general yes.For basic latex caulks a "Dripless" caulk gun is great.But some products or so viscous that even if you release the plumber and manually withdraw it, it keeps comining out. PL premium is one. But there have been discussion here in the past if the problem with PL Premium is do to the build up of pressure or if it is reacting to moisture and continuing to expand.I do some work with a painter that gave me an expnesive caulk gun that is not dripless and I hate it. But it is not here to give you the brand.I have an orange $3.99 dripless from HD (but I don't think that it was an HD brand) that really works well. The only limitation is that id does not have the leaverage of some of the more expensive ones.A friend has an expensive one, maybe a Cox, that you can set to either mode. She does not understand the difference and whenever I try to use it is not in the dripless mode and thus I ussually refuse to use it and don't know how well it really works.The mode is set by a bail that goes over the release leaver.
I have a blue Cox and is sux. Maybe I didn't get the dripless one or something.
I also have several of the oragne guns that came form one of the home centers. Was it HD? I have one right here and the faded lable just says dripless caulking gun. Can't read the fine print - it has caulk on it.. :-) They work great. For once I'm happy with a cheap tool.
in short..
the Cox guns are smoothh and work well..
last a long time too...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I'll probably get burned at the stake as a heretic, but IT'S A FREAKING CAULK GUN! Ain't some highly technical power tool. You put a tube of caulk in, puncture it, and squeeze the gun handle. Ain't a whole lot of room for 'better' or 'worse'.
jt8
"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success." --Albert Schweitzer
You'd be amazed. One problem I've had with the cheap ones is that the front "yoke" bends crooked over time, causing the tubes to burst open at the front seam. Some are so flimsey that the front yoke will spring enough to pop the tube, when you're just trying to get a new tube of fairly thick stuff going.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
Try squeezing PL Premium in a cheap gun all day and you'll change your tune and your gun. You'll switch after 10 minutes if the PL Premium is cold.
Billy
Edited 9/20/2006 5:30 pm ET by Billy
so let's burn ya at the steak just because we can...
but turn yur card in first...
the Cox guns last longer...
aren't a disposable tool and the cheapies seem to be...
metal actions where as the knock offs are plastic..
rarely break..
better built..
finer control...
easier to use...
smoother action...
simply a better tool...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 9/20/2006 7:21 pm by IMERC
I gotta tell ya John with the exception of the $1.50 guns your exactly right, its a freaking caulk gun. If your having problems its usually operator error!
Doug
As said above, some product just keeps on coming out no matter. I have changed caulks many times and have finally a fav that doesn't spew on it's own.
Besides saving itself for bonding, it's cleaner.
http://grungefm.com
As for manual guns, I have used them all. The Cox was my favorite for a lot of years. Last coupla years though, I've really enjoyed using the 'Dripless' brand name, in particular the hi-tech plastic model with a switch for the dripless function on or off (off when you have the more viscous materials).
As a side note, made the mistake once or twice of buying/using a gun with no hook on the plunger end.
Yeah, where would you hang it? Stick it in your back pocket!
http://grungefm.com
There was a blurb in a recent FHB or JLC about a Japanese caulking gun that seemed pretty slick. As I remember the only complaint from the reviewer was that you needed two hands to change tubes. Maybe someone else here can remember where it was written up.
It's a Tajima as in the chalk line people. I've got one and it is dripless even sucks back after releasing trigger. I have found it to be a superior gun, however not very good for low viscosity products.
La Machina Guapa
View Image
http://www.cox-applicators.com/images/products/410042t.jpg
Edited 9/21/2006 4:24 pm ET by chrisjohns
I got the "WorkForce Professional" from HD...was their most expensive. Supposed to be an auto pressure release, but I find I still have to reach up with my thumb and click the release lever at the end of a caulking run...no big deal. It also has a clipper in it for cutting the end of little plastic tube...my knife works much better.
But has anyone noticed that the little built in metal rod for puncturing the seal of a new tube of caulk isn't long enough for the Vulcum tubes? So I waste my time looking around for the coat hanger I have dedicated for this purpose.
And one last thing.....what are some ways others use to free up the end of a used tube of (whatever), where the caulking has hardened in the end of the plastic tube? I may be behind the knowledge curve here, as I've always tried digging and poking and shortening the plastic tube, etc, etc. But the other day, I simply chucked up a drill about the size of the opening and drilling out the hardened caulk. Has worked like a champ every since.
BruceM
I have some leftover "lightning rods" from installing insulation in a crawl space--they're stiff wire, about 2' long. I cut a couple of those in half and put them in my various tool boxes so I always have something to puncture caulk tubes with. Nice to be able to preserve a small opening in the tip, rather than jam a 20d nail in there. I've seen more than one guy do it with his pencil.
"I have some leftover "lightning rods" from installing insulation in a crawl space--they're stiff wire, about 2' long. I cut a couple of those in half and put them in my various tool boxes so I always have something to puncture caulk tubes with"
I pick-up 12ga wire scraps from jobs, cut 'em into 6-8 inch lengths and put them inmy tool pouches and boxes for the same reason. 14ga is too flimsy but the 12 is juuuust right.
-Norm
Cox makes a pneumatic air gun also. Pretty pricey at just over 100 bucks, but after using it I would never even think about doing larger jobs without it. It lays down perfect beads everytime, no bumps, pauses, or energy expended. I know you are all thinking that its just a caulk gun and that 100 bucks is crazy, but its definetely the third ball.
The pneumatic air one doesn't have the plunger sticking out the rear so it also fits into tighter spaces.
I have never used their power gun to caulk, but we use them to lay down adhesive on the joists to 'glue & screw' floors in cottages and on studs (metal or wood) to put up walls: worth every cent.
<!----><!----> <!---->
Phill Giles<!----><!---->
The Unionville Woodwright<!----><!---->
I got a Hilti used off of Ebay for a buck, and 5 to ship. It is the best caulking gun I have ever used. Smooth action, easy to use. Only thing I miss is the gadgets to cut and poke the tube.
There are better guns available. You have to go somewhere other than HD to get them, though.
This is the caulking gun that I purchased at my local lumber yard. It takes much less effort than the standard $4.00 dripless gun. I paid about $14.00 or so for it and can caulk all day if needed. I think it is worth every penny and would pay more for an even better one, when this on fails. Check it out.
http://www.amazon.com/10-Oz-Contractor-Heavy-Duty-Caulk-Gun/dp/B0002CKG1O/sr=1-1/qid=1158792068/ref=sr_1_1/002-1511774-3651206?ie=UTF8&s=hi
Read the review on this link, too.
http://grungefm.com
Edited 9/20/2006 6:51 pm ET by RRooster
I dont know who made it but that looks exactly like one I got at Sherwin and it be da bomb. Mostest favoritest goodest!!Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
I don't want to hijack your thread but I'd also like to ask if someone can recommend a decent quart size glue gun. We can burn through a glue gun on one job nowadays! I've tried them all, including a battery powered gizmo from HD (it got glue inside and we cant get in there to clean it).
Help!!!!!!!!
blue
Cox has several models in QT size..
work well...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've got a Cox, but for caulking I prefer to use a Dripless caulking gun.
this one:
http://www.amazon.com/10-Oz-PROFESSIONAL-CRADLE-HEX-ROD/dp/B000DZF2QO/sr=1-2/qid=1158795495/ref=sr_1_2/002-1511774-3651206?ie=UTF8&s=hi
It gets used way more than the cox
The one that Rooster linked to is also a Dripless, but I like the one above also
Yeah, that's the one.
Went and bought a $15 thinking it might be better and still always reach for the old yellow.The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Pneumatic. I have three from an auction of a cabinet shop going out of business, they were used all day every day (until they closed the doors : ) gluing cabinets together. I'll haul out my oil-lubed compressor rather than use the manual standby, it's just that good.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I vote for the cox, and you can make it into a sausage stuffer as below...
Bud