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Window sealing without nailing flanges

ravz | Posted in General Discussion on November 21, 2008 07:33am

Any tips or techniques to ensure a good water seal around windows without nailing flanges?  Use peel and stick and bend  to attach to sides of windows?  use bent flashing?

 

 

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  1. davidmeiland | Nov 21, 2008 08:23pm | #1

    I would add metal flanges. You can use a simple 90* bend, or better yet use something like a Z bar. Kerf the outside face of the jamb, insert a short (3/8") leg of the Z bar into the kerf with sealant, screw the next leg to the side of the jamb with more sealant... the third leg provides your flange. I did this with a small window I made recently.... 5/4 jamb stock, a Z bar made for me that was 3/8" x 1" x 1-1/2". At least one major manufacturer does almost exactly this. Prime the outside of the jamb first.

  2. losh | Nov 21, 2008 11:04pm | #2

    What material are your windows? Wood, Aluminum, fiberglass, or vinyl? You also need to know what type of siding you are using as it will more than likely determine your sealing method. I like the nailing flange as it also gives you a sealing surface for Tuct tape and the house wrap. When you bring your house wrap over top of the flange it prevents water that penetrates your siding (When not if) from getting behind the window flange/brick-mold. This does not mean that you don't have to seal the window to the wall sheathing with a good quality caulk though. There will probably be a flurry of posts saying you don't need to do this, but every Manufactures spec I've read calls for it to be done. If you do not have nailing flanges, use a good quality caulk behind the brick mold, (Bakor and Tyvek make products for protecting the wall sheathing from moisture behind the brick-mold on the window). They are installed in order; the bottom, sides, and then the top piece. This allows water to roll down the material and prevents it from penetrating to the wall sheathing.



    Edited 11/21/2008 3:14 pm ET by losh

  3. Snort | Nov 22, 2008 12:04am | #3

    We make our own peel and stick flanges for for brick moulded doors. It's a pain, but works nicely. JLC had an article on it a while back.

    Now you see this one-eyed midget

    Shouting the word "NOW"

    And you say, "For what reason?"

    And he says, "How?"

    And you say, "What does this mean?"

    And he screams back, "You're a cow

    Give me some milk

    Or else go home"

    1. rez | Nov 22, 2008 12:45am | #4

      What type of peel and stick? 

      1. Snort | Nov 22, 2008 04:18pm | #6

        Any kind will work, but some are easier than others. The peel off release paper needs to be slit without going through the bitathane (sp?). Arndt and Herman is the best I've used so far. Now you see this one-eyed midget

        Shouting the word "NOW"

        And you say, "For what reason?"

        And he says, "How?"

        And you say, "What does this mean?"

        And he screams back, "You're a cow

        Give me some milk

        Or else go home"

        1. rez | Nov 22, 2008 08:18pm | #7

          ya, learned in a different thread that ye old Gracie Ice&Water Shield ain't for the vinyl windows. 

  4. tom21769 | Nov 22, 2008 02:26am | #5

    DuPont makes a peel & stick flashing product called "StraightFlash" that can be used on non-flanged brick mold windows. Installation guides:

    http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/tech_info/index.html

    (scroll down the page, and look for the table with links to "Brick Mold, Non-Flanged and Field Applied Flanged Window", either for "before WRB" or for "after WRB")

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