Any tips or techniques to ensure a good water seal around windows without nailing flanges? Use peel and stick and bend to attach to sides of windows? use bent flashing?
Any tips or techniques to ensure a good water seal around windows without nailing flanges? Use peel and stick and bend to attach to sides of windows? use bent flashing?
Four 2200-sq.-ft. detached homes provide flexible open-plan housing on this Los Angeles block.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
I would add metal flanges. You can use a simple 90* bend, or better yet use something like a Z bar. Kerf the outside face of the jamb, insert a short (3/8") leg of the Z bar into the kerf with sealant, screw the next leg to the side of the jamb with more sealant... the third leg provides your flange. I did this with a small window I made recently.... 5/4 jamb stock, a Z bar made for me that was 3/8" x 1" x 1-1/2". At least one major manufacturer does almost exactly this. Prime the outside of the jamb first.
What material are your windows? Wood, Aluminum, fiberglass, or vinyl? You also need to know what type of siding you are using as it will more than likely determine your sealing method. I like the nailing flange as it also gives you a sealing surface for Tuct tape and the house wrap. When you bring your house wrap over top of the flange it prevents water that penetrates your siding (When not if) from getting behind the window flange/brick-mold. This does not mean that you don't have to seal the window to the wall sheathing with a good quality caulk though. There will probably be a flurry of posts saying you don't need to do this, but every Manufactures spec I've read calls for it to be done. If you do not have nailing flanges, use a good quality caulk behind the brick mold, (Bakor and Tyvek make products for protecting the wall sheathing from moisture behind the brick-mold on the window). They are installed in order; the bottom, sides, and then the top piece. This allows water to roll down the material and prevents it from penetrating to the wall sheathing.
Edited 11/21/2008 3:14 pm ET by losh
We make our own peel and stick flanges for for brick moulded doors. It's a pain, but works nicely. JLC had an article on it a while back.
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
What type of peel and stick?
Any kind will work, but some are easier than others. The peel off release paper needs to be slit without going through the bitathane (sp?). Arndt and Herman is the best I've used so far. Now you see this one-eyed midget
Shouting the word "NOW"
And you say, "For what reason?"
And he says, "How?"
And you say, "What does this mean?"
And he screams back, "You're a cow
Give me some milk
Or else go home"
ya, learned in a different thread that ye old Gracie Ice&Water Shield ain't for the vinyl windows.
DuPont makes a peel & stick flashing product called "StraightFlash" that can be used on non-flanged brick mold windows. Installation guides:
http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/tech_info/index.html
(scroll down the page, and look for the table with links to "Brick Mold, Non-Flanged and Field Applied Flanged Window", either for "before WRB" or for "after WRB")