I am in the middle of installing replacement windows. Unfortunately I have run into a number of rotted sills, a result of inadequate window siding. What is the best and least expensive way to repair these sills? Should I rewrap them correctly, replace the front portion of the sill with a piece of pressure treated, or install a new sill? A friend of mine said HomeDepot sells something called “Never Rot” sill material Is there such a thing?
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Is it the inner window sill rotting, or is it just the sill nosing?
There are synthetic sill materials available, I'd stay away from using PT lumber, if you are planning on painting it, PT lumber is usually to wet to accept and hold paint, and if you were planning on wraping it in aluminum it would eat the aluminum.
Though I've never seen a window sill wrapped before? It doesn't sound like a good idea.
If it is just the sill nosing that is rotted, you can cut it off and replace it with a new piece of sill nosing, either cedar you mill yourself or a synthetic. The pre-primed material they sell is usually finger jointed crap.
If the inner sill isn't rotten too bad, surface only, you can remove the damanged area and patch with epoxy made for the purpose.
Edited 9/6/2005 4:21 pm ET by CAGIV
Dear CAGIV, Thanks for the great information. Thus far only the nosing appears to be effected. So I will try to use some synthetic replacement. I never knew pressure treated lumber eats aluminum; great information. Thanks for your time in responding.
Another approach is to solidify the bad wood with one of those soak-in consolidation treatments like Arbitron.
-- J.S.
Sill can refer to at least three things
Is this the sill that is a part of the window? I think not, since you are replaciong the windows and this item would then go to the dump along with it.
So you must be talking about the framed sill of the rough openning.
To my mind the answer would depend on the extent of the rot -
very slight but not dryed - ignore it
some surface weakenss of the 2x4, use minwax wood hardener or git-rot epoxy.
very rotted to be loose and not holding at joints - reframe
I do now install a pan flashing. Wheether a PVC pan or a flexable Vycor typre depends on the situation
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I'm thinking he's talking about insert replacement type windows.
Dear Piffin, I was in fact inserting replacement windows, and therefore was referring to the original new construction window sill.
I can attest to the brillance of Abitron. I just repaied 5 casements using the consolidater (Liquid Wood) and then built up any missing wood with the epoxy putty (Wood Epox). Great stuff, easy to work with and long lasting. It is expensive, but cheaper than cutting, refitting and etc.