Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 18, 1999 06:47pm | #1

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   Regular galv. deck screws should be fine. The problem you will have is getting the heads to set flush. 1/4" backer is harder than 1/2". Backer board screws are larger than the same size deck screws and don't break as easily. With those short screws, probably #6, you may break them before the heads set. If you have that problem you will have to predrill and countersink the screws.

   You use fiberglass tape in thinset. If you are going to the trouble of using backerboard at all, use thinset rather than mastic for the tile.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 1999 03:05am | #2

   *Bobby:If it is Hardy backer board (which it sounds like it might be based on the fact that it is 1/4") check out the below link. You should find most of the onfo you need.http://www.hardie.com/backerboard.htm

2. 
   gregn | Mar 20, 1999 02:41am | #3

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   The orange screws are built with a second set of threads that cause the screw to wobble as it is being driven. This creates a bored out space for the screw to countersink. The orange screws also have an oversized so that the screw doesn't punch right through the wonderboard. If you can find a screw that has a large head and is corrosion resistant then you can pre-drill the countersink.

   Home Depot sells the fiberglass seam tape and has literarture on how to use it. Basically, you lay the tape across the seam and then thinset over it. Several people have recommended(including myself) that you thinset over the seam just before you set the tiles. This eliminates the possibility of creating a hard seam that accidentally is too high.

1. 
   Gig | Mar 21, 1999 08:03am | #4

   *This is a good website. More folks should provide information like this that is easy to follow. No, I'm not a sockholder, just a guy with my name on my shirt!

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 1999 08:28am | #5

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   I bought and have bought in the past the manufacture screws (Short memory) and they are the worst. I've only set 1/2" cement board in thin set, but regular drywall screws work best for me. They only really hold things in place until the thin set dries.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 22, 1999 08:00am | #6

   *I use deck screws and nothing else. I don't use drywall screw because they don''t hold up in wet environments

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 23, 1999 06:34am | #7

   *Bob, you might want to consider an alterative backer such as Dens-Shield. Much easier to work with and has an integral waterproofing membrane (hopefully you realize that cement bd. is not waterproof - just unaffected by water). You can find more info at: http://www.gapac.com/build/gypsum/dens/tilebacker.html

4. 
   Tripp_Huey | Mar 24, 1999 05:18am | #8

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   I order my CBU screws from McFeeley's. They are square drive as opposed to phillips and are available in many different lengths. Even with shipping charges they are cheaper than the HD Hi-Lo Rock on screws.

5. 
   BobbyT_ | Mar 24, 1999 05:18am | #9

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   Doing a tile countertop, would like to use the 1/4" wonderboard found at the local HD (don't yell at me!). Only 'official' orange screws there are 1.25". As I'm screwign it (1/4") to 3/4" ply, points will stick thru into the cabinets. Ca I use regualr galv decking screws in, say 3/4" or 1" with no problems? Also, no info in the store on taping the board joints. What do I use, fg tape? What mud, the thin set or mastic I'm using?
   Thanks for any help.
   -Bob