Replies

1. 
   Mike_M. | May 03, 2001 09:23pm | #1

   *
   You're concerned about how well the wood will hold up in an exterior application? I don't know if aesthetics are a significant consideration, but mahogany is certainly a classic choice for a front door. Cypress will also hold up very well, and finishes nicely, IMO. If properly finished, the VG fir doors we frequently use out here in the Pac NW seem to do pretty well, but definitely leave the poplar for interior applications. Seems to me that any of the woods used for boatbuilding would work, assuming you can get them to take the finish.
   Mike

1. 
   jim_l | May 03, 2001 09:46pm | #2

   *Shawn, I agree with Mike on the wood choices, but you might want to consider an oil finish instead of the Varnish. Even marine varnishes with ultra UV protection need scraping and reapplication more frequently then most wooden boat enthusiasts (myself included) like to admit. Boat people expect it and are resigned to it. The oil finishes need reapplication a little more often but without the removal of the old finish.Jim

1. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | May 03, 2001 09:48pm | #3

   *Whatever species you use, make sure all your lumber is VG (vertical grain). All wood swells and contracts with seasonal moisture changes, but VG will swell and contract with minimal twisting and distortion. "Quatersawn" lumber is predominatley VG, so is "rift". I'm sure there are other terms for it in other parts of the country too. The way to recognize it is to lay the board flat and look at the endgrain. If the endgrain is perpendicular to the face of the board, that's "VG". I'd say anything up to about 25, or 30 degrees is VG, but I'm not sure what a lumber grader would say to that. And of course, we're talkin' tight grain here - no fewer than 8 rings per inch. The best lumber grows slow, so the summer and winter rings are about the same width. Don't forget to joint the faces of your stiles. They have to be FLAT.

1. 
   Art_B | May 04, 2001 01:40pm | #4

   *I've had excellent results for this application from quarter sawn oak (my only affordable west coast source is resawn 12 ft pallets, ask Frenchy for midwest oak sources).

1. 
   Andy_Engel_ | May 04, 2001 07:30pm | #5

   *I built my front door by laminating three layers of quarter-sawn white oak for the rails and stiles. I glued it with urea/formaldehyde, which has zero creep, and finished the outside with gel stain and an initial 3 coats of Penofin, which I renew every spring by wiping on another coat. On the advice of FWW author Jeff Jewitt, I sealed the top, sides and bottom with 2 coats of epoxy. This I did by mixing up some 20 minute epoxy in a cup with enough alcohol to make it brushable. I applied it with a foam brush. Two Connecticut winters, one summer and the beginnings of another (90 degrees here yesterday)have had no noticeable impact on the door. Mind you, my door is protected by a porch, as I think every door should be. Andy

2. 
   Shawn_Twing | May 04, 2001 07:30pm | #6

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   I posted this in the Fine Woodworking discussion too but haven't received much feedback. All feedback is appreciated.

   I'm replacing two exterior doors (basic mortise and tenon frames with a full-length panel of glass) that were damaged beyond repair. The current doors are made from a species I can't identify (possibly fir).

   Both are south-facing, exterior doors subject to northern new england's harsh winters and summer sun. Ideally, I'd like to coat them with marine varnish, so the wood has to be of decent quality.

   My initial thought is mahogany, available locally in 6/4 for a tolerable price. Others have suggested fir and poplar, but having read the reaction in FH to using poplar for storm windows, I ruled that out.

   Anyone have an suggestions on what wood to use, or reasons to or not to use mahogany in this application?

   Thanks.