FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Wood vs. steel studs?

| Posted in General Discussion on September 25, 2002 10:57am

Wood vs. Steel Studs?

I am a builder who lives in Hawaii and have done all my framing with wood.  I am considering framing my next project in steel studs.  It seems logical to go to steel as all the framing lumber here must be pressure treated and is nasty to work with.  Also, even the treated lumber here eventually has termite infestations and dry rot problems as the climate is very humid and wet.

Are any tips you can give to a novice at steel stud construction?  Can you frame with steel studs 24″ on center?  Are there any existing Fine Homebuilding articles on steel stud framing?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Mooney | Sep 25, 2002 03:12pm | #1

    You bring to the boards an interresting subject . Ive done a lot of steel framing in commercial. If the material was readily available, I would use it for different applications . Of course we prefer wood to frame with , but now you are talking treated lumber vs steel. Seems to me that steel would be cheaper. I dont have the knowledge to transfer wood to steel in homes totally. My question to your problem is wood trimmers and plates would still be needed to construct a high end  home with wood trim . The more trim the more problem . I see metal studs used in apartments more inviting, or a home with a lot of drywall returns instead of trim. They make metal trim screws but this would be a slow process compared to our air nailers. I guess what Im thinking is that if the home had a lot of trim like the high end homes do, the cost would over shadow the physical worth of the building. Wood the public pay more for a steel home of the high end ? I typically see it more in a simple home , or a commercial residence . But hey, Im here to learn more ! Maybe you can add to what Ive said , or you will get some better hits from people doing it . Wouldnt you have to go to metal stairs ? I would be very interrested in your questions as well. I know you can think of issues your self .

    Tim Mooney

  2. DLightbourn | Sep 25, 2002 05:28pm | #2

    Check out JLC at http://www.jlconline.com - they have published a number of articles on the subject over the years.

    1. caseyr | Sep 25, 2002 09:46pm | #3

      There are also a number of books on residential light gauge steel framing.  You can go to http://www.amazon.com and check out these titles and their links should lead you to a number of others.  I have the Hacker book and it is pretty good.  None of them are cheap, however:

      Residential Steel Design and Construction: Energy Efficiency, Cost Savings, Code Compliance by John H. Hacker, et al

      Residential Steel Framing Handbook by Robert Scharff

      Residential Steel Framing Construction Guide by E. N. Lorre

  3. pm22 | Sep 26, 2002 03:11am | #4

    Graystroke,

    Don't forget that steel will rust in a damp enviroment. Other than that, I don't see any problem.

    As for 24" spacing, I suppose steel studs behave the sa°me as ordinary wood studs - after all they are a substitute.

    There are a lot of tricks with steel. For instance, you can cut the flanges and bend the web 45° and use it as a brace.

    The steel framers always seem to carry three pairs of ViceGrip "C" clamps [6R or 9DR]. Get the plain tip, not the swivel pads, as the pads tend to get in your way. I would recommend ofset aviation snips for cutting. You snip the flanges, bend 90° and then snip the web. The offset means the green or red handles don't get in the way.

    Please remove, file, brind, turn-over or blunt any sharp exposed edges.

    Line up all the holes in the studs. Otherwise, you will violate every Code in the book, your house will fall down and your electricians and plumbers won't be happy.

    -Peter

    Sir, I may be crazy, but you're drund and tommorow you're gonna have a hangover and I won't. So there!

    1. PhillGiles | Sep 27, 2002 12:32am | #12

      We know some folks that build with metal studs in Tahiti - same problems: heat, humidity, mold, termites, etc. They spray the studs with a wax coating (same stuff the USN uses apparently) to inhibit rust before sheathing..

      Phill Giles

      The Unionville Woodwright

      Unionville, Ontario

      1. whancock64 | Sep 27, 2002 02:11am | #13

        Made me think, kind of a side issue to steel studs, but have you seen the thing about USAF testing the use of spray-in bed liner on the back of exterior wall panels for blast protection? The test photo I saw looked pretty cool. They blasted two panels with what was some measure of dynamite at x distance and the regular framed and sheathed panel was splinters, I mean toothpicks, but the sprayed one stayed mostly intact. It has something to do with spreading the force and it preventing a catastrophic failure at any one point which prevents total structural failure. Why would we care? Would be a 'nice to do' for the inside of the room that contains the water heater. Had one of those blow a town over when I lived in Pine Bluff, AR and someone got hurt as I recall. I was a kid, but it looked like what I figure a hand granade or RPG would have done to the house. I think it was in White Hall, AR. There were folks that just drove out to drive by slow and see what happened. (we were one family that did) That happen much anymore?

        1. McMark | Sep 27, 2002 05:12am | #14

          Seems to me that if enough water is passing through the weather envelope of the structure to have standing water in the track, then if lumber was used you would probably end up with dry rot.

        2. PhillGiles | Sep 27, 2002 07:41am | #15

          Not exactly, I did some consulting on a project that was testing the spray-in bed-liner to strengthen walls in hurricane zones. Not sure of all the details, they were talking about fixing the walls in a bunch of schools in Dade county so that could be used as public shelters.

          Phill Giles

          The Unionville Woodwright

          Unionville, Ontario

  4. whancock64 | Sep 26, 2002 06:14am | #5

    Check out http://www.metalhomes.com and there was an issue with an article on steel framing for homes. I'd tell you which one, but my mags are back in the bedroom with the sleeping wife...

    1. Mooney | Sep 26, 2002 03:36pm | #6

      We wouldnt want to wake her up! Cuts down on Breaktime !

      Tim Mooney

      1. tcarty1 | Sep 26, 2002 04:47pm | #7

        A few years back we wee considering using metal studs in a large project as opposed to concrete block back-up to brick veneer.  We had heard real horror stories about failure of the building envelope to prevent rain water from migrating to the inside. The worst included the photo's of the bottom track standing full of  water and the bottom of several studs rusting completely away.

          We had lengthy discussions with the design team about sheathings, flashings, caulks, brick and mortar permeability and on and on.  We convinced ourselves that with care we could prevent that from happening. We made the decision  to go with heavier guage studs and extra steps to maintain the integrity of the building envelope.  We have not yet regretted that decision but the day after we cast the dice, Engineering News Record published an article outlining a Corp of Engineers decision to never again use metal stud back-up to brick veneer.  I think the article included a photo showing water standing in the bottom track with the studs eaten away.

        A word of caution---You can predict the variables that will affect your structure and you can prepare and plan for every drop of water that will invade the envelope but you will wind up with a complex system with pieces, parts and steps that the subs must follow to the letter.

        I think I've just had an epiphany!---If water in the bottom track is a concern, for residential construction, would it be too far out of line to put down a treated plate and then use Simpson anchors to screwed to the metal studs.  No bottom track--I'd still be extra cautious about wraps and flashings regardless of veneer.  

        1. AndyEngel | Sep 26, 2002 07:12pm | #8

          Would drilling a couple of weep holes in the bottom track have helped you sleep nights? Or is there some reason not to do that?Andy Engel, The Accidental Moderator

          1. tcarty1 | Sep 27, 2002 12:11am | #11

            ANDY, The problem with that is that the bottom track is not set in mastic or caulk and it is, at least in theory, behind the thru -wall flashing.   Any water that would leak out of the track would not migrate to the outside but rather soak back into the space.  I think the issue here is not to manage it after it got to the track but instead to prevent it from ever getting there.  What I'm asking though is that if a residential contractor would like to use metal studs for all the right reasons but not have to take more  precautionary steps than he typically would in wood construction, if the sympton is water in the track, is it acceptable to screw a metal Simpson bracket to the bottom of the stud and screw or nail that to a treated plate?

            FORGET ALL THIS!!!   I just discussed this with an engineer friend who knows where of he speaks..  He's never seen water in a track in his twenty years of structural design.  Regardless, he says that preparing the building envelope is the critical issue. Oh, he also says that the idea of a stud to plate connection is cheesy.  You would appreciate his honesty but  I won't repeat what he said about how the Corps does things.

        2. User avater
          jonblakemore | Sep 26, 2002 09:52pm | #9

          It seems to me like water in the bottom track is a sympton, not a cause.  Treat the original problem and you should be ok.Jon Blakemore

          1. whancock64 | Sep 27, 2002 12:03am | #10

            True, but I like the idea at least of the weep holes. Located in a place where water would be visible or the fact they were draining could be noticed would be even better.

  5. andybuildz | Sep 27, 2002 02:54pm | #16

    Gray

        Heres a tip....I use to think I could save $$$and time using metal studs but when one goes to shoot screws into the dry wall a real lot of times the metal bends and the screws dont go in right....Also...moldings......bummer!  Trim screws also sux to work with.....kinda doesnt pay in my mind so something I developed is to use metal sole plates and top plates and use wood studs in them...The job goes really fast that way....I mostly do basements that way.

    Be well

            Namaste

                       Andy

    It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

    1. AndyEngel | Sep 27, 2002 05:26pm | #18

      Andy, did you ever see the Far Side cartoon where the foreground shows a bunch of cavemen sitting around a fire cooking chunks of meat held in their hands? On their faces are a variety of pained expressions, as their knuckles singe along with the drumsticks and lizards they're cooking. In the background is a lone caveman, wearing glasses, cooking his chunk of meat on a stick. The caption goes something like, "Hey, look what Zog do."

      Metal tracks, wood studs, "Hey, look what AndyC do."

      Andy Engel, The Accidental Moderator

  6. TLRice | Sep 27, 2002 03:15pm | #17

    ".... as the climate is very humid and wet."

    One problem with steel construction over wood or masonry, from an indoor air quality/humidy/mold perspective is that it has less moisture capacity. If humidity and other small amounts of moisture enter a structure that can absorb it and then release it as wood and masonry structures can (masonry is much better), no problem. There is a constant absorbing/drying cycle going on. Moisture will get in. It can be asborbed and then released or it can "wet" the structure, the insulation, live in other soft materials like carpet, drapery, bedding, etc.. That is when trouble (and the mold) starts. Ventilation, therefore, becomes critical in a steel structure.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Join some of the most experienced and recognized building professionals for two days of presentations, panel discussions, networking, and more.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Embodied Greenhouse Gas Emissions and the Building Codes
  • Old Boots Learn New Tricks
  • Install Denim Insulation Like a Pro

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data