Hi,
Was thinking about picking up a bosch wormdrive. Amazon has the regular handle model for 140.00. They also have the direct connect model for the same price reconditioned.
Never had a worm drive before and I am looking forward to getting one.
If I buy the reconditioned one I will put a new blade on it so, I was wondering what are some easy /reliable ways to remove a diamond knockout without potentially bending the blade?
Webby
Replies
For Marathon blades and such I usually just knock the diamond out with a big punch I carry in my bags. You can put the blade on a couple of 2x4s spread apart so the diamond will fall out.
You have to twist the diamond out on Freud Diablo blades and I use a nail set for that.
Great, thanks for the advice.
Webby
I use the end of my cats claw put the diamond in the slot and twist it out.
I'd ask a few people who have the direct connect how they feel about them I haven't heard anyone with much good to say about it.
Webby..... do yourself a favor and skip the direct connect. Get a regular corded one.
Direct connect BLOWS. Trust me... I owned a pair of them when they first came out. If I'm going to cut a cord (hey, it happens) I'd rather cut a $10 replacement cord than a $50 12/3 100'er or even a 50'er for that matter. I've also got some 14 guage cords around and they don't work with the system as they're too narrow to stay put.
Also, if you have any replacement cord ends on any of your extension cords, they won't fit well, if at all. For that matter, I had a couple of cords (forget what brand) with the original plugs that were either too small or too large to stay put.
I also found it to be a hassle to untangle the cord from the saw if I wanted to plug in a recip or something for a minute.
It's a decent concept and I thought I'd like it. But when the rubber met the road, it just didn't work out that well at all.
Just my opinion. Trying to help you think about it from all angles before you make a purchase you regret. Heck, my old man's hedge clippers had the same set-up when I was kid....... and I can still hear the cursing.
Worked like crap with my POS BlacknDecker edger - so I can't imagine it's all that good of an idea for a circ saw.If they wanted to do something cool, why not something like Milwaukee's quick-disconnect seems like a great idea there. (although we're back to having to pay $25 to replace a cord I guess...)JT
Hey thanks for the advice, I am leaning to the regular model because its new.
Webby
Marathon blades come two ways at my supply house, with a round arbor or a diamond arbor. They have no knockouts to hassle with. This is the 7-1/4'' blade. Ask for those.
Dude, get the Skil 77. It will last FOREVER. Plus, it doesn't have that cheesy plastic shoe. Plus, it's cheaper on the money. Consider it. Trust me.
Hey. What's supposed to be the benefit of the direct connect design, anyways? Anybody see an advantage to that?TIPI,TIPI,TIPI!
Instead of the tool cord being 6', 8', or 12', it can be 25' to 100' long - whatever length of extension cord you attach. Plus there is no plug to catch on things close to your work.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I really like the idea and wish more manufacturers would do it. Mainly for storage. It's so much easier to put away a tool without a big coil of cord attached to it. I have a 50' cord on my skilsaw which is great for working but sux for putting back on the truck.
have you seen or used a Bosch worm?
It IS a Skill 77, and it's not a plastic shoe, it's a Magnesium shoe which is much stronger and less apt to bend then the skil's stamped AL shoe, the motor is 2 amps stronger, it bevel's to 50 instead of 45 degrees, It's about 2 pounds lighter then the skil mag, It has a rafter hook, I can't think of a single feature on the 77 mag that is better then the Bosch?
Webby,
I have to chime in on this because I was fortunate enough to test all the inline saws (called em' wormdrives and got a letter to the editor :-) ). I picked the DeWalt, Bosch and Makita as the favorites. I think there were 4 or 5 of us who tested them and that was the consensus. So we bought a Bosch, already had DeWalt. After a year, 3 Bosch saws and 4 or 5 DeWalts later (trim guys liked the DeWalts) we had a nice boat anchor collection. Every single one of those saws has been in the shop, some many times.
Then a year ago last December, we got the new Ridgid RS3210 http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Worm-Drive-Saw/index.htm to do a review on. First day we had it, I was cutting a 12-12 roof and the thing just powered through it, including LVL. I've been using the Ridgid as my personal saw since May and it's in for warranty work. I think that it has held up well. The warranty work was minor, but I wanted to get it in. I've been using the Bosch for the last few weeks while my saw is in the shop and it just is not as nice a saw. I've been trying to figure out how to describe it, but it seems like the Ridgid is more refined. Like the Bosch needed 1 more step and it'd be the perfect saw, but it didn't get it and seems brutish. Compared to the Skil it's much more refined, but it needs to go a bit further.
Having said that, the saw won't die. I think it's sturdy, but just not quite there for me. Here is a pic of the Ridgid. You can see the Bosch Big Foot saw also and the Bosch motor powers that 10 1/4" blade really well. I think you'll be happy with the saw, I just wanted to pass along my experience. http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9094915/128790572.jpg
People talk down the Skil 77. I have been using the same Skil 77 for 25 years and the only thing I have done to it is replace brushes once.
Thank you!
The Skil 77 is a TOTAL workhorse. Why would I shell out the extra cash for that plastic-y Bosch, especially after hearing of it being dogged by a Ridgid(!), for crying out loud?
Additionally, I have one of those Makita hypoids sitting in the garage since the grommet fell out of the depth adjust. It goes to 50 degrees and I honestly never felt like it was anything to shoot off about.
Sell me your Makita! I have two with bad gearboxes and good grommets!
Forrest
Agreed. The mechanics are totally fine, in fact the cord is original and relatively new-looking. Oh, the guard return spring shat the bed, but other than that and the grommet, it's quite stout. $50.
Pigsooie,
You're missing the point, the Bosch is the Skill, what is more plastic on the Bosch version of the saw vs the Skill version? Same saw, same design, more features?
Holy moley! What are you, a Bosch rep? I'll give the Bosch another look, okay? Jeez.
no, not the Bosch rep ;)
your comments just had me floored, because they are seriously the same saw, now that bosch sidewinder, that is a POS.
So what experience do you have with the Ridgid wormdrive? Do you have experience with their new line of tools? Just curious, not being defensive, but I started framing using a Skil and it is NOT the best wormdrive on the market. Or best inline.
Edited 2/10/2006 1:14 am ET by Timuhler
Obviously everybody has an opinion. You have stated yours as a fact, as have I.
I have the Ridgid 12" compound miter. It's about as refined as a dumptruck.
You are incorrect. I did not state my opinion as fact. I simply stated my experience. Those are different animals. If we were to get really metaphysical, I could argue that experience is fact, but its Friday and I'm pretty sure I'd sound spaced out :-)
Reason I asked you that, is that if you haven't tried all the saws in a comparison, your experience is narrow. Doesn't mean it isn't valuable, but that caveat should be included.
When I first saw the Ridgid on their website, I thought it was a Skil Mag77 knockoff. When we pulled it out of the box, it was obvious that it was more than that. I've already written my piece, so I won't go further. I wouldn't judge one product though because another product is garbage. For instance, I wouldn't buy most other Skil products even though their saw is good quality.
Couple of weeks ago, we had to cut some windows into a gable that had already been sided with Hardi and was drywalled inside. We have 2 older (10 years+) Skils that we use to cut Hardi or demo work or whenever there is cutting that needs to be done and there is lots of metal and nails. It is ver noticeable the lower rpm and torque from the Skil 13 amp motor compared to 15 amp. If someone is framing, the 15 amp is the way to go.
wormdrive on the market. Or best inline.
Those letters to the editor really got to you...
;-)
Well it wasn't my idea to call them that. But I won't repeat the mistake :-)
no No NO! - the reason Bosch came out with the direct connect BS is pure and simple because they compromised their blade guard entry shape to make it retract easier (hands free) on steep angled cuts. Consequently, it's open and just right to bite a cord. By using direct connect, the saw doesn't eat itself - it eats someone else's cord!
I can say this because I bought a Bosch 'cuz Larry Huan said it was "the best saw he ever used" (it IS my daily saw, but I'm on cord number 5 in three years. I've gone through 2 Makita Hyphoids in the previous 13 years, and NEVER ate a cord.
Compare the profile of the blade guards -
Forrest
It's funny you mention that about the Bosch. I'd never cut a cord with my Mag 77, but I did zing the origninal Bosch cord that came with my new DC wormdrive.While using my saw just for a couple of cuts two guys have nicked a cord too.