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I have the opportunity of a lifetime! I’m moving out of a single-family split-level with a 350sf shop (no walkout) to five acres. I’ve received permission from the finance committee (read: wife unit) to build a shop. The shop of my dreams. The shop to beat all shops. A shop to make strong men weak in the knees! A shop to . . . . Sorry, got a little carried away.
Well, now I’ve got the opportunity, but I don’t know what to do with myself! I’m looking for some help in figuring out what I should worry about and what I should leave as luxuries for others to own. I’m a former contractor serving time in the HELL of corporate America until my kid is a little older and we’ve got some money put away. So currently I do mostly cabinetry, solid surface counters, and some 1-2 weekend sized jobs.
Options I’m considering: ICF’s to raise the foundation walls and create the necessary garage below the shop; Radiant heat to avoid blowing myself to Peru the next time I spray lacquer; beams vs. dim. lumber; roof trusses vs. stick built; Central dust collection; Incandescent vs. fluorescent.
How big does a shop need to be? How big would you make a shop? Are you willing to move one tool to get to another? How often? I’m trying to be practical, but it’s hard not to think about building a huge shop. I’m going to be here for a long (10-20 yrs.) time, so maybe I should go whole hog?
Suggestions? Referrals? Marriage proposals?
Richard ‘Tricky Dick’ Nixon (in the interest of anonymity)
PS. Some of you guys are really damn funny! Knock it off, my boss is gets suspicious when coffee comes out of my nose.
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is this free - standing detached? think pole barn ...insulated slab..
...i like the radiant floor..
A/C for dehumidification and not sweating the details..
lighting..
power outlets around the wall, and in the midle of the floor to service the island power equip...
shop vac system
table saw layout generally determines everything..
flow thru of ripped material..
material delivery in...
finished product out..
area for painting/finishing..
racks for material storage..
i think Norm has some books out on dream shop layout..
we set our shop up where ever we get the job.. and what ever the owner will give us... so the above is just rumaging .. not first hand..
have fun...
*My dream shop would have a bathroom and a small kitchen area. Big screen TV and a couple of garbage-picked recliners! Oh yeah, room for tools to. Dust collection and plenty of material storage.Would love a junk room for that crusty old claw foot tub/ or old set of doors I gotta throw away! Jeff
*Arn't you the lucky dog!You talk about a garage under. Hope your site will give you walk in/drive in access to both levels. I don't think a second story, or even a "step or two up" shop is very practical.How big? I would not go smaller than 30' x 40'. This will give you room for three bays and storage on the garage level and plenty of work space above.With 5 acres you are going to need a tractor. Park it inside and it will last forever. You are also going to need space for mechanical projects, like changing the oil in the tractor. Plan on it.Agree with bathroom. Iffy on kitchen. Would add office space. Having plumbing in the building will make it easier to covert to an apartment or some other use when you have had your corporate America coronary and the finance committee wants cash flow.Consider a seperate electrical service or a second meter if there is any chance you will use the shop, now or in the future, for business purposes (or as a rental appartment). You can never have too much electricity.ICF foundation?. Why not go all the way up with ICFs? Consider pouring the second floor over steel truss joists and metal decking. Common commercial construction technique that complements radiant heat.9' ceilings minimum. Sissor trusses if possible. Enhances general lighting and makes it easy to flip sheets of plywood without taking out the lights.Mike's pole barn suggestion is a good one. The project schedule you outlined is high end. You can get a lot of cost effective space in a well constructed single level pole barn or prefab metal structure. Keep it in the back of your mind. You may want to come back to it after you push some of the numbers around.One thing I would not do is compromise on size. No matter how big you build it at some point it will become to small. Junk expands to fill all available space.Dust collection? Check out the Grizzly site http://www.grizzly.com (I think). Don't know how you feel about their products but they have a lot of info on dust collection systems on their site.Good luck!Steve
*Free advice? Worth about whats you have to pay for it... My only recommendation is make just big enough. Too small is bad 'n' too big is bad too. I would need about 1400 sq. ft.[I'm a one man operation] Small office, rest room & paint room.If you store lumber make it bigger to suit.
*Build it as big as you can afford. You'll fill it eventually! How's the budget? Prioritize what tools you need and if there's money left the tools you want. Buying a table saw or a combination machine? Leave plenty of space around it. Build a side table and an outfeed table. Side table can be on locking casters to roll out of the way or to use as a work table. Have a floor outlet at the table saw. Cords on wind-back reels are good for over the work table. You'll never catch a cord on the vise while routing a board if the cord is hanging from overhead. Recess your lighting so you don't smack a fixture while flipping a board around.Find every book you can and glean the best ideas from each. Dream shops are a matter of personal taste and preference not necessarily utility.Can your wife call my wife?Eric
*Big (big big big). 10' ceilings, 200 amps, as many windows/lights as you can manage, and the flattest, smoothest slab possible (for the solid surface dust). Most guys figure 1000 sq. ft per man, so if you may hire on, figure that in now. Also, big.
*Here's a link to Norms New yankee workshop. You lucky dog.jim
*Whatever you do, build it on a raised foundation so that wiring and dust control can be run under the floor.....
*A small bath with a urinal and no toilet. And a "no girls allowed" sign
*I have been studying ICFs for years and was on a two day erection and pour last week using Eco-Block. I cannot comprehend building anything more than a shed any other way. Given a lot of planning and careful thought, it really is a very simple system. The big problem is having a stick-built house and an ICF shop would get up my nose so bad I would have to build a new house! I am also very impressed with Formtech blocks, which are very similar. You almost have to go to SIPs for the roof to get it insulated and tight enough to complement ICF walls.
*I'd build it around a 100+ year old tree, have a landscape designer plan the interior layout, get some iguanas and maybe a mongoose to keep out the confounded cobras, walls composed of reclaimed chestnut, (hopefully clear), mood lighting, some lava lamps, ceiling done up in Doors, Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin posters, maybe have a mural painted there. Sprinkler system, climate/humidity control, atrium between shop and house, heated of course...
*We are building our new house with an attached garage for my workshop. It is 26'x34'. I can tell you now it isn't big enough. It has 12' ceilings(10' would be enough). I agree that the table saw determines the layout. Also look at how much raw stock you will need to store and storage for tools. We are using a hanging, radiant heat unit and like the safety aspect and the even heat. Put in plenty of outlets. Hang some overhead cords down for convenience. Fluorescent lights are economical,but tend to be stark. Put in plenty of windows and a skylight if it doesn't have an attic over it. The more natural light, the better. We have a 9' garage door at one end and a double 9' door in the side. This works out very well. I have yet to find room for my sailboat which the garage was sized to. Yep, I guess it will never be big enough!
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Mike Smith; Steve Hansen and anyone else who recommended a slab. I like the radiant heat in a slab idea, sort of like ham and eggs, but I don't like standing on a slab for more than an hour or so. Any other suggestions to get radiant heat but a soft floor?
Steve Hansen: I like the scissors truss idea. I was heading that way. I was thinking that an SIP roof would be great, but do I leave the bottom of the trusses open? Sounds light and open, but I think dust would be a problem then. Thoughts?
Anyone got experience putting skylights in a SIP roof?
The site is sloped enough to allow drive up access to both the upper and lower levels. Brings up an issue as to how to face the exposed ICF. Wire mesh and parging work ok over a membrane? If I go all the way up with the ICF can I throw board and batten siding over the outside? Do I need to create an air space between ICF and siding? Anyone seen a good looking vinyl B&B siding? I hate painting, but I need to match the look of the barn that's already on the property.
Using the space for a residence is a no go. Zoning is strict and quite unlikely to change.
The dogs killed the last mongoose I got. Took about a week for them to catch him in the open. Cobras are a problem in the summer, but I'm a good shot with the old 12ga.
Guy space will be a definite. I'm thinking a sliding door in the back corner from which my buddy and I can fire the old spud cannon. Put two recliners and a fridge right in front of the door. . . I'll never be lacking for entertainment!
Plumbing is a must. Peeing out the slider is a no-brainer, but I refuse to use a drywall bucket!
This is Northern Virginia, hundred year old trees are illegal.
Chris DeLucchi: Can I email you directly to ask about your experience with ICF's?
Thanks Kids!
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Mike,
Get hold of a back issue of FINE WOODWORKING MAGAZINE; issue No.129, April 1998. This issue shows a shop owned by Joe Tracy. It incorporates everything you are talking about: water/radiant heat; finishing room, dust collection system, storage area, work area, and much more.
Eric is right; dream shops are a matter of taste. Build as big as possible, and allow for expansion in your design for the placement of additional tools that you will buy from time to time. Also allow for ample storage and future storage.
If you wanted to combine a wood shop with a mechanical/automotive function, I would opt for a long pole building with a wood shop at one end and the automotive at the other. The two shops would be seperated by an interior wall, or better yet, by an adjoining storage room.
Dust control is a must, but situate your vacume system so it is outside; rather than sharing your shop space. Plan for lots of lighting (natural light perferred) in your finishing area.
Main thing, put this all down on paper first; highlighting where you plan to position each stationary tool, and permanent tool lockers, etc. etc. If it looks good on paper (draw this to scale), then it will be good. Allow for ample work space around each tool and your workbenches. (example... you need at least 8 feet behind and in front of your tablesaw; not to mention 4 to 6 feet to the left side of the tablesaw as well. I would have at least 10 feet behind and in front if it was me. You need no space to the right side of your jointer... it could be next to a wall; but you need 3 to 4 feet wide where you will stand, and enough space front and back to handle your longest usual size stock that you use. If you have a stationary bandsaw, allow space for a scrap box directly in front (and below) of it. Radial arm saw can be against a wall, but most importantly should be close to wood storage for easy stock dimensioning. A scrap box for off-cuts should be near the radial also. Don't want to lug a 16 footer all through the shop just to cut it in half. You get the picture.....careful planning. By knowing where to place your tools, and what kind of tools you hope to aquire, this may ultimately help determine just how you plan to build your shop.
Good luck, YOU LUCKY DOG!
Davo
*Mike,From what you have described, the first floor will be a walk out basement and or drive under garage. I would use concrete for the floor on this level. As I stated in my first post, maintaining five acres will require some real equipment and you will need a storage and mechanical maintenance area. The first floor would also be a good location for your air compressor, heating and air conditioning mechanicals, and your dust collection unit. You can put radiant heat under wood floors. All of the vendors offer this option. If you use a wood flooring system (for your second level) make sure your design is adequate for the loads you will be asking it to carry. You should plan on a support beam and posts in the first level.ICFs are usually waterproofed below the ground level with an applied rubber like membrane. You indicated you want a board an batten exterior. This can be easily applied to horizontal furring strips screwed to the ICFs. This will give you a 3/4" air space behind the siding. I would run the waterproofing membrane 6 to 8" up under the siding. To protect the exposed membrane I would use a galvanized tin skirt. Forget the vinyl siding. The use of SIPs for your roof opens up a number of design options. Consider fabricated open web metal sisor trusses or possibly a timber frame. These can be spaced wide centers and will look good exposed. You can also use an engineered beam for a ridgepole and dispence with joists. Conventional sissor trusses give a vaulted effect. They are spaced 16 or 24" on center. In residential construction they are finished with drywall or plaster. I do have a couple of general comments. The first is that what you are dreaming about is a rather complicated structure. It has retaining walls, a flooring system that must carry significant loads, and a roofing system that must span a considerable area without intermediate supports. You are also considering some materials that are outside the current mainstream of light construction. I suggest you contact suppliers and discuss your plans with them. A SIP manufacturer, for example can spec a support structure for the roof and a truss manufacturer can spec a flooring system. You should consider buying a couple of hours of a civil engineers time if you have any questions about what you are doing and it may be necessary for a drafter to draw up plans for the permitting process. Second, from a business standpoint, the structure you are planning will never be worth the money you are going to be putting in it. This is fine if you plan to keep your place forever. If, however, you anticipate selling at some point it may be wise build a more pedestrian building. Talk to a friend in real estate. The resale market is a competitive place and the standard buyers use to compare options is the square foot cost. Premium upgrades make homes attractive to buyers but it is hard to translate them into a premium price. It will be even more difficult to recover your investment in a premium shop.Good luck with this,Steve
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What do you mean a small bathroom.. Gotta have a real head, magazine rack, maybe a small fridge... Hey, you know, the basics
*They invented a thing a few years back for just this type of application. Its called,uh, a barn.Build it big, I mean really oversize, build it single story. Then frame in the portion you are going to use with 10' studs and drywall. Radiant heat? Jeez way to expensive to install, not very flexible if you want to expand. Just get a great big gas unit, hang it from the rafters. If you want to spray, gee, turn it off. Always a separate spray room. Extra room for lumber storage, and an extra room for assembly and glue ups, so you are not working around tools.I like flourescent, cheap 4' ones, but lotsa 100watters in ceramic fixtures would be cheap and very flexible. Separate sub-box with at 100 amp service. Water and drain, too.Make it really, really big, frame it cheap, and expand, contract and change with your needs over 20 years. Trying to construct something now, when you don't know what you want, and have fit your purposes 10 years from now is fairly impossible. Flexibility is the key for me.
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George, I like the way you think. Almost.
IMABHO, a barn is the way to go. Bar none. I'm talking a real, two story and then some, big doors on one end, huge downstairs, huge upstairs, red and white barn.
If I had the bucks, I would build one myself right here in my corner of the woods. Since everyone else has described thier own dream shops I will mine.
1st floor... Wood shop, auto shop, spray booth big enough for a truck, and a photo darkroom. 2nd floor... LOTS of windows. ALL studio. Drawing table, several easels, sculpture, (wood, metal and clay), etc. Outside... a hand-built kiln. (For clay, not drying wood you cads.) A big couch, because more often than not, when I have real studio space I tend to work 20 hours or more, pass out and get right back at it after a nap. Fridge, sink and nuker. Complete bathroom. A computer corner.
Almost all the woodworking tools will be built from scratch by me. I have built all the tools once before, and was pretty successful at it. Will do even better this time, less of a learning curve, and I learned from my mistakes. I get as much enjoyment out of creating a tool as from using it to create something else.
A barn gives you so many ways to go. The above is my dream, but you could have a disco in one corner for Mad Dog. You could have sheep for when George W C comes over, and none of your neighbors would think it strange. (Though they may think it strange that the sheep are dyed different colors. Weeks and weekends, you gotta ask him why, I'm afraid to.) You could have a wetbar for when almost anybody from FH comes over. You could have a boxing ring for the same reason. LOL Gotta have a pool table. Several 5 gal buckets, a couple lawn chairs, and a barrel of pickles to go beside the potbelly stove.
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*On the subject of flexibility, Crazy Legs made a suggestion on a similar topic a while back that made a lot of sense; frame it with a continuos 2 x10 header running around the perimeter. If you decide to expand, or whatever, just cut out the wall where required and you're good to go. I still think it's a great idea.
*Michael Ampula:"Can I email you directly to ask about your experience with ICF's?"I would be happy to share what little I know directly via E-mail, but you would probably get a lot more out of posting here. That way, people will contrast their experiences against mine and we will all learn more.
*Micheal, You gotta be realistic here. Its better to start small with a long term plan to expand. Don't build more than you can afford, the payments could keep you awake many a night and take all the fun out of it. I'm 51 years old and if my mother was still around she would tell you I have been working wood for 50 years. My dad swears I was born with nails bags on. My current shop is 2300 sq ft plus a seperate 2000 sq ft building for lumber storage and finishing rm. I build staircases, big stuff so I need alot of room for assembly and prefinishing before I take it to the job site for installation. My wife works with me fulltime in the shop so I dont have to convince her what I need for tools or space. The point I'm trying to make here is I didn't get this shop in one shot, it grew as I grew' no massive debt load. As for the building itself, lots of windows,10 ft ceiling ( I have one 20 ft high bay for assembeling stairs) WOOD FLOOR ON CRAWLSPACE is a must. All electrical, dust collection lines' air lines and vacume lines as well as aircompressor and phase converter are located in the crawlspace. I don't know how many times I have had to relocate or add new lines over the years. A concret slab would have made it very difficult. Plus I built the shop myself so I went to great pains to get a flat floor. Being able to screw fixtures to the floor is a big plus too. Anyway good luck with your project.
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm in agreement with the comments about size and cost. Anyone got any thoughts on All Wood Foundations (AWFs)? The cost and one-man-doability seems right up the alley, but I like the idea of concrete strength, ICF R-values, and ICF sound transmission specs. Are ICF's really going to cost me an arm and a leg?
I like the single level building idea. It's cheap, easy to build, and lends itself to being a one man job. But the slope involved here would result in a stepped building at best. There's not enough flat space to build a shop anywhere on the property. I'd be lucky to find enough space for a one car garage.
Davo - I just packed all of my magazines. I'll check it out when I can find the right box. (2004?) I also like natural light. I've got southern exposure, so I was thinking about shed roofing the structure and putting as much glass as possible on the south wall. Thoughts?
Steve - No question that the building will never pay for itself. I wish I could think otherwise. It's my hope to be productive here for at least the next 30 years. If everyone just follows my plans for my personal success, things should work out OK. Ya'll get with the program damnit.
Chris, et. al. - OK, here are my questions about ICFs, in addition to those above.
1. I'm not currently licensed in VA, and I've allowed my MD license to expire. Am I going to get less of a raft of S*** from one ICF company than another? Unless I hear otherwise from you folks, I'm going to approach this project as a owner/builder, and the ability to get help from the manufacturer as such is going to play into my buying decision. If it's going to be easier on me, I'll get my VA license.
2. Can the post and beam type ICF's support 9 feet of backfill?
3. Anyone got a feeling as to which system is going to be easier for me to install either alone or with the help of unskilled labor? (My dad's a really smart guy, but a hammer in his hand always precludes a trip to the clinic.)
4. Anyone in northern Virginia got experience they'd be willing to bring to the table? Maybe work out a trade of services? Free beer? Rebuild a motorcycle? Knock off a mother-in-law for ya?
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No replies huh? Guess I need to add more humor to my posts.
*Dunno about the beams and all that liscence stuff, but it sounds like you are moving to a piece of property just like mine. I have a northwest facing lot. Other than that it sounds just the same. I spent most of the summer moving dirt by hand and building retaining walls, (also by hand). I will spend most of the coming summer doing basicaly the same. I hope also to have some sort of viable driveway up into the property by the end of the summer. It sure would be nice to drive up here with one of those large propane tanks, rather than having to use several small ones. I have a heart conndition as well, and those trips up the hill carrying groceries or materials seem to take weeks. LOLAnyway, I just wanted to say, please keep us informed of your plans and progress.
*I'll be happy to keep you guys up to date. I take ownership of the property in June and hope to get a real (surveyed) lay of the land. Everything up to this point is speculation as to viability of two level building.Luka - do I see a bobcat in your future? Might be a little overkill for carrying the groceries in, but sure would knock out that driveway project in a hurry!
*I wish !!!! LOLI have dirt to fill with. There is a gravel yard or three fairly near here, and I can get my gravel for ten bucks a truckload. I have a GMC truck that is supposed to be 3/4 ton, but I made -many- trips from the yard to here with loads in excess of 2 1/2 tons. I kid you not. I have a lot of culvert pipe, probably need very little more to do the job I want. I got all my culvert pipe from a jobsite where they were tossing pieces 6 feet and shorter. But I don't have money. I am on a fixed income. I can't afford to even rent, let alone buy a cat. I will have to continue to do it all by hand, as I have already done.On the bright side.... two things. Because of the work, I am in better health. YAY. and... I have enough beautiful property that eventualy I should be able to have seperate shops for sculpture, woodworking and auto work. As well as a good sized studio for painting, drawing, etc. As for the shops paying for themselves, They will basicaly have to go together mostly from 'found' materials. They will have to not cost much in the first place. Once built, I will undoubtedly be able to supplement my income out of each of the shops.At this point in time, I am still dreaming of being able to spend my time doing sculptures in a shop of my own. In reality, it will probably be several years before I can do so.For carrying groceries, I have been playing with the idea of welding a framework between a couple scrapped motorcycles to make a sort of self-powered trailer for carrying groceries and found building materials up the hill. Got my eyes open for those scrapped bikes. LOL
*1. "Am I going to get less of a raft of S*** from one ICF company than another?"I doubt that you will get any hassle from the ICF company. A bigger question is how much support you want or need from the ICF distributor and how much S*** you will get from the code approval crowd. Many distributors will assist you with code approval issues and, for additional cost, send a person to help erect and pour.2. "Can the post and beam type ICF's support 9 feet of backfill?"An ICF wall is a monolithic concrete wall with better hydration than conventionally formed walls. The code is well understood for designing a retaining wall, even if it happens to be part of a building. In most cases, retaining walls require a structural PE (State licensed Professional Engineer) to design and license. In some cases you may also need a soils report. In most cases, the building department will want a Structural PE to sign the drawings for the whole concrete structure anyway -- regardless of how it is formed.Several of the straight block manufacturers including Eco-Block and Formtech offer ties from 4" up to 24" in 2" increments. The bottom line is your structural engineer will give you a drawing specify a certain thickness, concrete strength and rebar -- amount, location, and size. Above 3000 PSI concrete may require the inspector to witness and test the pour and vibrating. I got a piece of advice from one distributor that makes a lot of sense when dealing with the building department. Specify a monolithic concrete poured wall with your PE's stamp in place. ICFs are a form, provide insulation, and happen to stay in place after the pour. In that light, most inspectors on small jobs like a residence don't care how the wall is formed. Some inspectors will realize this fact but get personally interested in ICF. Depending on personality, I personally would welcome the inspector's interest since I plan to overkill the design anyway. An interested inspector who is also good can provide a lot of good ideas since they see a lot of pours and most problems that come up.3. Anyone got a feeling as to which system is going to be easier for me to install either alone or with the help of unskilled labor?I have studied ICFs for years, been around a lot of conventional pours, and seen a lot of ICF videos. The hands-on Eco-Block pour I was on surprised me how well I had educated myself. It is not hard, but you should know the installation manuals (yours and several similar systems) very well and at least have an experienced concrete form carpenter help. The skill required to erect is minimal, but it must be right to prevent a blow-out, ensure plumb and square, and meet code. You always want another set of experienced eyes checking everything before the pour, regardless of how the forms are made. If possible, I would rent the ICF scaffold with integrated turn-buckles as it is much easier than cobbling them together out of 2x and rented turn-buckles. You do need the ability to adjust plumb as the pour progresses.4. Anyone in northern Virginia got experience they'd be willing to bring to the table? Maybe work out a trade of services? Free beer? Rebuild a motorcycle? Knock off a mother-in-law for ya?Contact the ICF dealers in your region. The ones I have met are highly motivated to make sure your pour is successful, especially if you are willing to help them out with showing your building to referrals.
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I have the opportunity of a lifetime! I'm moving out of a single-family split-level with a 350sf shop (no walkout) to five acres. I've received permission from the finance committee (read: wife unit) to build a shop. The shop of my dreams. The shop to beat all shops. A shop to make strong men weak in the knees! A shop to . . . . Sorry, got a little carried away.
Well, now I've got the opportunity, but I don't know what to do with myself! I'm looking for some help in figuring out what I should worry about and what I should leave as luxuries for others to own. I'm a former contractor serving time in the HELL of corporate America until my kid is a little older and we've got some money put away. So currently I do mostly cabinetry, solid surface counters, and some 1-2 weekend sized jobs.
Options I'm considering: ICF's to raise the foundation walls and create the necessary garage below the shop; Radiant heat to avoid blowing myself to Peru the next time I spray lacquer; beams vs. dim. lumber; roof trusses vs. stick built; Central dust collection; Incandescent vs. fluorescent.
How big does a shop need to be? How big would you make a shop? Are you willing to move one tool to get to another? How often? I'm trying to be practical, but it's hard not to think about building a huge shop. I'm going to be here for a long (10-20 yrs.) time, so maybe I should go whole hog?
Suggestions? Referrals? Marriage proposals?
Richard 'Tricky Dick' Nixon (in the interest of anonymity)
PS. Some of you guys are really damn funny! Knock it off, my boss is gets suspicious when coffee comes out of my nose.
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Mike,
I am somewhat similarly situated. Short-term I set up shop a portion of my basement. (Bilco door access) I focused primarily on equipment because in my situation the tax results of buying equipment were better than bricks and mortar. Not that I would change what I have done so far (my intent has always been to make a start then move out to commercial space,) but some of my experience may be helpful.
Because you are thinking about spraying lacquer, you are at least thinking about finishing. Good idea! Finishing space is hard to come by and even carder to put on a mobile base (you can't). Much as I enjoy making chips, finishing is the most important part of the project. Have a good dust free area for finishing, spray and hand, and make provision for oil soaked rags, waste disposal and ventilation, ventilation, ventilation.
Mobile bases are great! If I had the space, I would do without them, but with ~500 s. ft, I have everything except drill press and lathe on mobile bases.
Finally, having managed factory additions, I suggest you lay out your shop for efficiency without regard to the building. Then cover the layout with a building that fits the shop rather than trying to make the shop fit your dream building.
Have fun!
Dug