Replies

1. 
   NPitz | Dec 02, 2003 03:57am | #1

   Depends on what is wrong and what type. Most zone valves have power heads that are replaceable without removing the valve. I guess the main question is whether it is a problem with the valve itself (inside the brass body) or the actuator.

1. 
   wrick2003 | Dec 02, 2003 04:25am | #2

        I understand the possibility of an internal part malfunctioning, but wouldn't just cutting out the old one and replacing it seems quicker and easier?

        There is a shut off valve above the zone valve in question. I only wonder how to deal with the supply nipple that will be left standing there while I solder the new valve in. Do I need to shut the drain valves to the two zones, and drain the boiler, or is there a check valve on that stub out?    

        rg

1. 
   NPitz | Dec 02, 2003 04:50am | #3

   Replacing the actuator is a very simple job, probably 10 mins., compared to the relative hassle of draining, cutting, and sweating a new valve. Here is what I would suggest: most common zone valves have an ability to be manually opened. Turn on the thermostat to that zone, then go into the basement and feel the pipe on the side of the zone valve away from the boiler. If it stays cold, then try manually opening the valve. If the pipe immediately starts to warm up, then you may have a faulty actuator; get the appropriate part and replace it. If the pipe stays cold, then you may have a faulty valve, in which case you can try replacing the whole valve. But bear in mind that there are many other problems that could be the cause, such as air trapped in the radiators, a faulty thermostat, faulty wiring, bad relay, bad pump, etc. etc.

   Without seeing the actual piping, I can't tell you what needs to be turned off or what needs to be drained. You can try posting a picture, but even then a problem like this is very hard to solve over a computer.

1. 
   wrick2003 | Dec 02, 2003 03:23pm | #6

        The recirc pump was replaced last year. A rad was replaced at the same time.

        Last night, when I wiggled the two wires going to the switch, it clicked on and ran.     In my mind's eye, it's the switch in the zone valve. Make sense?

        Thanks to all for your assistance. I always appreciate the breadth of knowledge of my web brothers.

        rg 

        

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Dec 02, 2003 06:05am | #4

   Listen to Nick.  Two weeks ago I spent 6 hours at a clients house troubleshooting why one zone didn't work.  What I thought was a return ball valve malfunction, wasn't.  After draining the whole enchilada, I decided to run one more test by pressurizing the zone through a drain.  That indicated the return valve was fine.  Which left me with one conclusion, the pump was bad.  Turned out to be a piece of plywood stuck in the impellar.  I eliminated the zone valve as a problem by doing exactly what Nick suggested you do.

   One word of caution.  If you drain the whole system and don't have a high point vent (not the vent at the boiler, but a vent in the zones) be sure and bleed out all the air after filling it.  Whoever install the system two weeks ago didn't believe in baseboard vents, so I had to bleed/feed the whole system to purge the air.  Took 45 minutes and a whole lot of H2O.  If you don't get rid of the trapped air, you could 'vapor bind' the zone; there may not be enough kick in your circulator to sweep the air out, especially if it is a long zone or there are other zones operating in conjunction with it.

   Good luck.  Wish I was there, it's fun stuff : )  Honest.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
1. 
   VtMike | Dec 02, 2003 01:39pm | #5

   I don't find it is necessary to install vents on a properly designed baseboard heating system. Automatic air vents can suddenly start leaking and ruin a ceiling. One vent in the right place is all that's needed. An air scoop should be installed on a straight piece of pipe that is 18 x Dia (1-1/4" = 24"). This will give the air bubbles time to rise and be captured in the vent. Newer micro air eliminators don't require it though. By installing the pump on the supply side and pushing the water through the system, it will carry the air to the eliminator where it's expelled. The feeder valve should be close to the expansion tank and the pump(s) after that. 

   When ever I have to break into a system and refill it, I always replace the air vent. Purging the system is going to introduce new oxygen that will end up as air bubbles. 

   Yesterday I couldn't even spell plumber, today I are one.

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Dec 03, 2003 12:44am | #7

   Clean, impressive setup.  Seems though that those systems that do have problems are not quite as thoughtfully constructed, nor designed.  Which may explain why they are having the problems.  

   Thanks for the input.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

2. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 03, 2003 01:26am | #8

   Mike,

   That is some really nice looking work.......I wish you lived near me!

   Is that your house or is it typically what a job you do look like.

   I'm impressed.

   Eric

1. 
   VtMike | Dec 03, 2003 02:43am | #9

   That's a typical job.  I challenge myself to make the next one look better than the last. After 27 years it's getting tough to come up with new ideas.

   KISS = Keep It Simple and Servicable

   Yesterday I couldn't even spell plumber, today I are one.