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Foundations and Masonry Work

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How-To

Brick Walkway: Preparing the Base

Establish your grade and lay a base of compacted gravel and stone dust to ensure that your bricks stay exactly where you want them.

By Cody Macfie
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Excavation

Establishing a rough layout for excavating a straight path is easier than for a curved path (though a straight path is not always as attractive). Drive stakes at each side of the walkway, tie mason twine to them, and adjust the stringlines so they are 90 degrees to the house or porch. You can use a framing square 1 to find the angle, or establish square using the 3-4-5 rule. Extend the stringlines the entire length of the walk. Make sure they are parallel and secure them to stakes at the street end of the path 2. Once the stringlines are set, mark reference lines on the ground for excavation 3.

Lay out for excavation
1. Lay out for excavation by running a stringline to the street. Use a framing square to set the line at 90° to the house.

 

make sure that both ends are roughly equal
2. Measure off the first stringline to locate the second parallel edge. Check to make sure that both ends are roughly equal.

 

Mark under the stringline
3. Mark under the stringline with marking spray. If you need to erase the line, simply scratch it out with your foot and re-spray.

 

If the grade is irregular, level the stringline using a line level. Measure down from the twine to gauge the excavation depth in any given spot 4.

level the stringline over the length of the walkway
4. Use a line level to level the stringline over the length of the walkway.

 

Dig down approximately 8 in., cutting the sides straight and plumb as you dig. This will give you enough depth for 3 in. of compacted gravel, 2 in. of quarry dust (stone dust) or sand, and the brick. Even for a narrow walk, 8 in. of excavated soil is a considerable amount, so find a spot in the yard where you can use some fill or plan on hauling it away 5.

bargain labor from your friends
5. Dig! Beg, borrow, and bargain labor from your friends and neighbors to make short work of an otherwise all-day job.

 

TRADE SECRET: If a finished landscape requires you to precisely lay out the finished walk before excavating, consider using batter boards that can remain in place for the duration of the project.

 

Get Help with the Digging

A digging crew can make short work of an otherwise all-day job. For the project shown here, a five-person crew dug the walkway bed and prepared it with gravel. They took roughly 11⁄2 hours to do this. That’s just about equal to an 8-hour day of nonstop labor for one person (or more, figuring in fatigue). Considering the work involved, it’s well worth plying some friends with some pizza in exchange for a little grunt-work help.

 

Installing the Base

Once you’re done with the excavation, move a compactor over each area several times until the soil is hard and smooth. The longer you pack, the less chance settling will be an issue later 1. Then spread landscape fabric over the soil to discourage weeds from growing through the walkway 2. Fold the fabric up the sides of the excavation, secure with soil pins, and cut it just below finished grade. Spread gravel over the landscape fabric and rake it to a depth of 3 in. 3. Then repeatedly run the compactor over the gravel until the bed is hard and smooth 4.

Run a soil compactor over the bed area
1. Run a soil compactor over the bed area repeatedly and in different directions. Take special care to compact the perimeter thoroughly.

 

Fold the landscape fabric up the sides
2. Fold the landscape fabric up the sides of the excavation and cut it off just below the finished grade.

 

use the end of a shovel to press the fabric
TRADE SECRET:
If you don’t have soil pins to keep the fabric from falling down the side, use the end of a shovel to press the fabric into the dirt. When you remove the shovel end, the fabric should stay put. This method is not as secure as using soil pins but will hold the fabric in place at least until you can add the gravel.

 

Spread a 3-in. layer of gravel over the entire path
3. Spread a 3-in. layer of gravel over the entire path and smooth it with a garden or landscape rake.

 

Run the compactor over the entire graveled area
4. Run the compactor over the entire graveled area several times. Take several extra passes around the perimeter.

 

If your walkway has a step, install a footing and concrete block for it now.

Next, add quarry dust (or “fines”) to a depth of 1 in., rake the surface smooth, and compact the entire area again 5.

Spread 1 in. of quarry dust over the entire surface
5. Spread 1 in. of quarry dust over the entire surface and compact it in the same manner as the gravel.

 

Now you’re ready to set up new stringlines to mark the elevation on the borders of the walkway. Unlike the reference lines used for excavation, the layout stringlines need to be as accurate as possible, so take the time to position them correctly. If you have a long walkway, or a complicated layout with multiple steps and turns, it’s worth the cost of renting a transit or laser level to really dial in the layout elevations. With a brick, check the elevation of the compacted quarry dust against the stringline. There should be a 1-in. gap between the top of the brick and the twine 6‚ to allow room for mortar under the perimeter bricks and sand under the bricks in the field.

Check the elevation
6. Check the elevation of the compacted quarry dust against the layout stringline. There should be a 1-in. gap above the brick.

 

TRADE SECRET: Use a level or a straight board to screed the fines flat under the string. Irregularities along the edges can throw off the overall flatness of the walkway, so it’s worth making the effort to get it right.

Use a level or a straight board to screed the fines flat


Masonry Complete

Excerpted from Masonry Complete (The Taunton Press, 2012) by Cody Macfie

Available at Amazon.com.

Previous: Brick Walkway: Planning and Prep Next: Brick Walkway: Setting the Bricks

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