FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe
How-To

Replacing Rotted Sills

It's a dirty job, but somebody's got to do it.

By George Nash Issue 53

Synopsis: It’s no fun discovering extensive rot beneath the siding where a house meets its foundation, but the author walks through the process of removing a rotten timber mudsill and replacing it with new material. He offers a number of construction details that will keep water out and rot at bay in the future.

The heavy clay soil of northern Vermont is notorious for its poor drainage. Before the era of the backhoe and dump truck, foundation walls were usually backfilled with the soil taken from the cellar excavation. If this happened to be gravelly soil, then the dry-laid fieldstone foundation walls would remain in place. If not, they would inevitably begin to heave inward.

Another problem with these dry-laid foundation walls became apparent each spring as the water table rose, or especially after a heavy rain; water washed into the cellar through the cracks between the stones.

Heavy equipment and transit-mix concrete allow present-day renovators to remove a failed foundation and replace it. Carpenters of an earlier generation did not have this luxury. In the attempt to shore up a heaved wall or to prevent water infiltration, they would often pour a sloped concrete wall directly against the old stone; sometimes on the inside, but more typically on the outside. This “buttress” wall would sometimes extend to the bottom of the foundation, but it would often end wherever the ditch diggers felt was deep enough.

The bulky, spalling buttress wall was the first thing I noticed about the house that Will Leas and Lisa Dimondstein hired me to help renovate. The house had begun life as a hunting camp some 50 years ago. Over time the camp had been tinkered with and remodeled until it was almost a regular house. The Dimondsteins were following a long tradition when they decided to give the house a facelift and upgrade its energy efficiency. Leas had discovered and repaired a section of rotten sill along one wall the previous year and suspected that there might be more decay behind the mildewed clapboards on the remaining walls.

Finding fault

Structural rot is not always apparent. When probed with an awl from the cellar side, the timber sills felt as solid as new wood. There was no evidence here of rot caused by a dank, unventilated cellar. On the outside, however, the bottom edge of the siding was punky where it slipped behind the top of the buttress wall. I was hoping that a simple flashing installed over the concrete and up under the first course of clapboards might be all that was needed to halt damage.

We inserted flat bars under the edge of the second course of siding, loosened the nails and removed the first clapboard. Like a vampire shrinking from the noonday sun, the freshly exposed sheathing board virtually crumbled into compost as it was revealed. The next clapboard was removed, and yet another. Still the decay continued upward, joining a vein of rot that had begun under the window sills. I was beginning to wonder what had held those clapboards on the wall.

For more photos, drawings, and details, click the View PDF button below:

Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters
×

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters
View PDF

New Feature

Fine Homebuilding Forums

Ask questions, offer advice, and share your work

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Industry-First Cordless Rebar Cutter and Bender

A brushless motor and 36v batteries power Metabo HPT’s cordless rebar bender and cutter.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • The Hole Truth: How to Properly Place, Cut and Drill Holes in TJI’s
  • How to Frame an I-Joist Roof
  • Installing Joist Hangers With Inconsistent Lumber
  • LVLs & PSLs: What’s the Difference?

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Video

View All
  • The Hole Truth: How to Properly Place, Cut and Drill Holes in TJI’s
  • Earthquake-Resistant Housing
  • Framing the First Floor Exterior
  • Installing Floor Joists and Laying Subfloor
View All

Maintenance and Repair

View All Maintenance and Repair Articles
  • Repairing Water Damage
  • Expert Session: Making Sense of Deck Stains and Finishes
  • Renewing a Deck
  • Building for Floods
View All Maintenance and Repair Articles

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 309 - Aug/Sept
    • 10 Steps to Install Crown Molding on Cabinets
    • How to Get Sturdy Walls Without OSB
    • Choosing the Right Construction Tape for the Job
  • Issue 308 - July 2022
    • Pretty Good House Book Excerpt: Copper Farmhouse
    • 10 Dos and Don'ts for Electric In-Floor Heat
    • A Sturdy Rail for Outdoor Stairs
  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in