Subflooring is a key structural component. This video shows how to install it efficiently and accurately so that you have a flat and squeak-free base for the finish floors to come.
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The FHB Podcast crew takes a closer look at an interesting roof.
Featured Video
Discussion Forum
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Video
View All Videos-
FHB Podcast Segment: Sealing a Floor Cavity in a Slab-on-Grade House
-
Podcast 606: Foam Slabs, Gaps in Click Flooring, and Board and Batten Rainscreens
-
Podcast 587: Members-only Aftershow—Basement Flooring
-
Podcast 543: Affordable Flooring, Replacing Replacement Windows, and Low-Flow Fans
View Comments
Should also be talking about fall protection while installing subfloor.
I've always faced the groove towards the leading edge so that beating sheets together doesn't damage the more vulnerable tongue. In this video the installers faced the tongue forward. Which way do subfloor manufacturers recommend - groove or tongue facing the leading edge?
Also we normally hand nail the end joints. You get a better feel for correct nailing vs the nail gun.
always hit the groove side in order not to damage the vulnerable tongue
we never glue the decking. Adhesive works fine if the joist and decking is absolutely dustfree (not likely on a construction site). If dust, sawdust or dirt is between the joist and the decking the adhesive looses most of its strength. Instead we screw the decking - 6" field, 4" oc on edges. In 35 years never had a squeaking floor or a callback
I had an issue with bouncing floors and searched forever. I did find this company called structure Lock that uses metal Ijoists.
Try them out structure lock.com
There is also another product out from Kenkeknem Smart Build used to control vibration and deflection before you install the sheathing. Works amazingly well. https://youtu.be/7fiL4r-uSrE
I can appreciate that gluing the subfloor would create a more solid structure, but that subfloor is never going to come up if it ever needs to be removed.--renos, water damage/mold or some other unforeseen reason.--and OSB is notorious for needing replacement after water damage, which is a huge insurance claim category. (Yes, I have pulled up part of a subfloor to provide reinforcement beneath built-in bookcases. Part of the renos before the hardwood floor went down.)