i have a 2″ pvc pipe (that empties into the soil stack) into which a 1/4″ copper pipe from the a/c condesate drains. the hvac contractor electrical taped it into this and now i’m going to put in a check valve in the pvc (from washer)and want to better connect the copper.
is there some sort of fitting i could use?
thanks everyone!
Replies
Is the PCV in question connected to the soil stack with glued fittings? If so, the portugese tap with the copper sounds highly questionable.
You can get a pvc fitting with garden hose threads, and there's a sweat fitting for the copper that has the same threads.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Legally you need an air gap for that condensate drain, as it empties into the drainpipe. And of course it must empty into a trap.
Legally you need an air gap for that condensate drain, as it empties into the drainpipe
Except in my town, where wet-venting is mandated for the coil drain, but the pan drain has to be daylighted.
(I've heard that the idea is that since we have close to a 9 month cooling season, that the wet vent keeps the trap primed--but none of those expousing that are/have been in code writing, though.)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
i'm afraid that i don't know what an air gap is though i "googled" it.i should say the a/c inspector (plumbing) ok'd the setupthanks
Like everyone else said, pictures would help. Sounds like you have a condensate pump and that does not need a trap, or air gap I believe. The line to it is supposed to have the trap to seal off to the airflow in the air handler. The box that houses the pump float would act as an air gap.
Air gap basically keeps flow in the bigger line from siphoning the small one and generally prevents any backflow from the bigger line going into the HVAC. A simple loop in the line between the pump and it's discharge point should prevent any sewer gas from coming out at the pump.
Here in the redneck woods they run them to daylight, I usually aim for flower bed. Have seen them run into sump pump well, mop sink. A p-trap with a vertical member (standpipe) would do also.
Not quoting code but what seems to make sense to me. Also agree that even with pump 1/4 seems small, I believe the nipple on most condensate pumps is 3/8.
Bob
An "air gap" is simply a discontinuity in the pipe. Eg, the condensate pipe drips into the PVC pipe, and the two are not sealed together. Ideally the condensate pipe should end ABOVE the top edge of the PVC pipe, so that even if the PVC pipe backs up and overflows, water can't be siphoned into the condensate pipe. (In practice, though, the condensate pipe is usually -- in violation of the strictest interpretation of code -- stuffed down into the PVC pipe several inches. However, since the connection's not SEALED, water cannot be forced back up the condensate pipe, should the PVC pipe back up, so, again "in practice", this is generally sufficient to satisfy the intent of the rule.)
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
but if the standpipe isn't sealed, what prevents backflow from main into basement?
> but if the standpipe isn't sealed, what prevents backflow from main into basement?That isn't "supposed" to happen. In a properly configured and maintained municipal sewer system it won't (very often). If the sewer system is less than trustworthy, then a check valve should be installed in the main. (Job for a plumber, unless you're a real quick study.)Note that there may already be a check valve in the main -- it won't prevent the sort of internal (to the house) backup you're having.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
if everthing is working well - gravity - and if not a check valve or the back flow preventer that goes on and around the WM's drain hose where it plugs into the stand pipe..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
confused now....check valve between washer and standpipe? seal standpipe? copper for condensate? i'm sure i can do this job, just don't know what's right.2 issues, 1)want to do all this right, 2) prevent slop sink backflowing into washer.thanks
confused now....
that fits right in..
check valve between washer and standpipe?
in the horizontal drain line between the WM's trap and the street..
or correctly configured plumbing..
seal standpipe?
there is a a gasket that slips over the WM's drain hose's end and into the stand pipe making a one way seal..
it performs as a backflow preventer and still allows air venting at the same time to prevent an air lock in the system.. all the big boxes have them..
my CRAFTS won't allow me to remember what they are called..
copper for condensate?
sure.. you could use that opaque plastic water line but copper is way better..
i'm sure i can do this job
we know you can...
prevent slop sink backflowing into washer.
a check valve after the pump and before the horizontal to the street to prevent back flow into the sink and the check valve for the WM as stated earlier....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 11/13/2006 3:07 pm by IMERC
thanks for your patience. 3 last things1)water shoots out the top of the standpipe when slop sink pump on.
2)slop sink, when on, causes backflow into washer, NOT the reverse, i have a check valve after the pump (see diagram)
3)if i use the valve thingy for wm backflow into the standpipe, where do i insert the copper from the condensate?thanks
1)water shoots out the top of the standpipe when slop sink pump on.
WTB the soil line is severly restricted...
2)slop sink, when on, causes backflow into washer, NOT the reverse, i have a check valve after the pump (see diagram)
put a check in valve just after the WM's trap..
but WTB here that the smart thing to do is to go to the end of the line and and redo it all...
I believe your drain is partially or almost plugged..
3)if i use the valve thingy for wm backflow into the standpipe, where do i insert the copper from the condensate?
you'll see a radiused notch in it that will allow you to put the condensate in..
when you get those pic please include one of the end of run and it's hook ups..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
will do, thank you
I can see how the water would back up out of the standpipe and into the washer when the slop sink pump is on.
You should get a plumber in there to fix it. I suspect that he would be able to clean it up with a couple of hours of work.
I think he would disconnect the existing standpipe connection to expose the hub of the cast iron. Put some sort of PVC adapter and connect a wye for the slop sink and then a new standpipe after the wye.
It also appears that you don't have a proper vent for the slop sink. They probably put a studor vent on there which is not recommended on a pump system.
thanks for the advice!
I don't have a clue what kind of hook-up you have. A 1/4 in. line is too small for a air-conditioner. You can't have a solid hook-up to a waste line, they must have a air break before a trap. Why do you think you need a check valve in the washer line? Sorry, but this is not enough information.
"If all else fails. read the directions"
YIKES!
feel like i stirred up a hornets nest!i have a 1 1/2" pvc line from my slop sink (with a check valve)i have a 1/4" copperline from a pump attatched to the top of the thingy on top of the furnace (thought it was related to a/c)i have a 1 1/2" rubber hose from the washing machineall 3 of these are cobbled together with pvc that goes into a vertical 2" pvc that goes into a 2" galvanized pipe with a trap that hooks into (horizontally) the soil pipe (also horizontal). i was going to put a check valve on the washing machine section and insert the 1/4" copper above the check valve.what's an airlock? should i just hire a plumber?thanks to everyone for the help
is the washer dumping into the slop sink or does it have it's own stand pipe..
and that's air gap and not air lock...
since it's 1/4 inch line from the "AC" is hooked to a pump...
figure out if the pump is a sump pump...
a pic of the arrangement would help...
at a guess..
you have a condensate sump..
the drains are undersized for the washer..
there may be a venting short coming.. (washer backing up into the slop sink)
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
i have a check valve in between the slop sink pump and the stack.it's a condensate pumphow would you arrange this? 3 things need to be drained,....1)slop sink via pump 2)washing machine 3)condensated pump....into galvanized 2" line with trapi do thank you for the help
i have a check valve in between the slop sink pump and the stack.
someone has tried to address this problem already...
the stack.. is it a DVW stack or the riser for the WM???
how long is the horizontal run?? and what is it's slope...
galv drains are famous for choking up.. you may have a 2" pipe functioning as a 1"... or less...
it's a condensate pump
okay
how would you arrange this? 3 things need to be drained,....1)slop sink via pump 2)washing machine 3)condensated pump....into galvanized 2" line with trap
can you post a pic of the end of line and the current confifuration at the sink / WM???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yeah, i put the check valve in when i replaced the sink pump.on my wall, i have a cast iron waste pipe that is horizontal with a slope to the outside....at some point, behind the washer, it takes a 90 degree turn up into the house...at the side of the 90 is an extension (the galvanized 2" pipe) that goes horizontally and then in turn elbows 90 degrees to vertical, transitions to pvc where it picks up all the 3 waste lines. there is a trap just prior to the 90.see diagramthanks
gtot it sortta...
I would tear it all out and redo it in 2" ABS..
increase the slope a tad on the soil run..
put the sink into the horizontal line (after the trap) and remove it from the stand pipe...
increase the size of the 1/4" condensate line to at least to 5/16" and goose neck into the stand pipe..... 3/8 would be better..
now .. can you you take a real time picture of the connection(s) at CI elbow and post it...
it is all easier than you think..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 11/13/2006 2:29 pm by IMERC
i'll take the photo tonight....be prepared....it's UGLY.i'm even pretty sure they used chewing gum to hang the pipes (lol)
good..
you buy this house new..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
1950's....untouched since the '70's. check out my posts, you all have helped on so many issues. but i'm gaining on it with your help.
The washer (I got the impression it was a clothes washer, but it doesn't matter) should not be plumbed directly into the drain without a standpipe/trap.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
it's WM.. did I say DW???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
it's a clothes washer.....what's a standpipe? i'm a rookie.....if you talk slowly, i promise i'll get it. lolthanks
the short verticle pipe that the WM hooks in / on to before the trap..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Standpipe" is one of those terms that can mean different things in different contexts, but in this case it's simply the vertical section of pipe rising out of the trap -- the thing you stick the washer hose into.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
ooops..
fixed it..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
and my bad for saying washer instead of sink..
thanks for pointing that out..
fixed that too..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
here they are in all there gloryblack pipe is from clothes washerwhite pvc from left and vertical is from slop sink via pump and check valvecopper pipe (at top,..electrical taped into pvc) is condensate pumpthe rest is the messthanksjohnps....kinda like airing dirty laundry
black pipe is from clothes washer
wonder the WM lifted the waste water that high..
you might want to consider putting your machines and sink on a raised deck.. the WM will drain easier.. make it as high as you are comfortable with..
the rest is the mess...
so pull the 1st reducing bushing.....
install a male adaptor where you removed the bushing from and then a soil wye immediately after that in the up posistion... use at least 2" PVC to.... 2.5" to take off with if you can find the fittings and then reduce to 2" for the trap and riser....
BTW that galv looks to be 1.5"..
connect the slop sink to the inlet on the wye's top side....
install the trap to the the thru end of the wye...
install the riser... or as much of one that you can get..
plug the WM's drain hose into the riser using one of the backfloe preventer plugs..
put the condesate line in the notch of the preventer..
View Image
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
>connect the slop sink to the inlet on the wye's top side....so the slop sink doesn't need a trap?thanks for all the help.....debating whether i need a pro, replacing the reducing fitting kinda scares me....should it?again you've been really great,john
so the slop sink doesn't need a trap?
the check valve will do that..
move the check valve alot closer to pump and add a union or two for servicing and repairs while you're there...
the configuration should show as
basin - line - union - pump - union - check valve - line to soil wye...
and add a check valve to the drain hose at the WM.. the washer will thank you for doing that...
replacing the reducing fitting kinda scares me....
Why???
should it?
no...
clean all the crust off the the fitting first with a wire brush..
cut off the trap at the horizontal line.. get most all of that mess out of the way.
take a BFW and put it on the reducer as though you were gonna tighten the fitting (on mode).. then take a BFH (5 pounder is a good call here) and sharply "rap" the BFW several times... don't pound it.. rap it.. you want shock therapy here..
do the same in off mode... still won't move ya say.. repeat the cycle several times..
unscrew the fitting..
put the new MIP adaptor and have at it..
the idea is to break loose years of corrosion first...
remember no pounding....
if you break the leaded joint loose use a hub donut at the hub to make the CI / PVC connection and the carry on..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
i think that the 1/4 line is your humidifier drain line.larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I see now why you have probs. 1: Your laundry sink pump should be tied into the main line separate from the stand pipe for the washer, check valve is correct. 2: Since you have a condesate pump 1/4 inch tube is fine, but I would run it into the corner of the laundry tray, the way it's run will cause problems. 3: The only thing you should have going into the stand pipe is the washer drain hose, the galve. pipe in this line should be replaced to the main waste line with PVC, 2in minimum; [galve. is just a prob. waiting to happen]. The stand pipe should be 18 to 36 inches above the trap, this is a local code question, it varies, the wash machine hose should not be hooked up solid, thats how you get your air break. 4: I hope that I have been able to help.Lots of luck....................................................
"If all else fails, read the dirrections"
do you like abs? vs. pvc?why don't i need a trap for the sink?
another poster talked about a vent for the sink....don't have one.this has all been very helpful, thank you.
PVC here..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
ABS or PVC, I would go with the one that is more prevalent where you live; both will work. Make sure that you use the cement thats matches the pipe, don't use a so-called universal glue. Like the other posts said the check valve off the slop sink is fine without a separate trap. Don't agree with using a check valve on the wash machine discharge hose, I've never seen where a manufactor recommends one. Like the other post said, don't be too aggressive when you are trying to un-screw the galv. pipe, make sure the threads are clean before you try to screw in the adapter. Rector Seal #5 is great. Without a vent on the line, your only practical solution is to install a AAV unless you can run a vent 6 in. above the flood level rim of any fixture connected to it. Hope this helps. Sorry for the continuous sentence, but Breaktime replies always emd up this way. Lots of luck.
AAV? i'm a rookie what's that?thanks for the help
Automatic Air Vent, sonetimes called Quick-Vents or Studor vents, they are not a true vent, but if you have no other options they will work. Luck
thanks
"May the force be with you"
you done yet???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
got some commercials to make, 70 hour weeks.....wait till i get some time, hopefully this weekend, i'll certainly let you know how it comes out,....but then the buckeyes are playing!btw, doesn't look like the crappy big boxes have (some)the things i need.....CURSES!ps, finally figured out what a bfh and a bfw is....lol
one last question (till the next one)on the riser that accepts the backflow preventer valve and washer pipe, would you put a wye on top of the riser with the side accepting the backflow preventer valve and washer pipe and the vertical with an AAV?whaddya think?
the preventer plugs into the inside of the riser and the drain hose thru that..
the preventer looks like a donut and the drain hose plugs into the hole.....
the preventer has a built in AAV...
if you want to add the AAV... soil wye the stand pipe at the top and do a take off of the wye and run the AAV to the cieling... put it as high as you can go with it....
you going to put a check valve on the WM's drain hose??
if you pedestal the machines and check valve the drain hose you should be able to get more riser... something she said you need... er.. could use more of.. you get the idea...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
waddya mean yur not done yet..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
dang......yer tough! no sympathy for my day job?>the preventer plugs into the inside of the riser and the drain hose thru that.....got it
>the preventer has a built in AAV.......didn't know that
>if you want to add the AAV... soil wye the stand pipe at the top and do a take off of the wye and run the AAV to the cieling... put it as high as you can go with it.........don't need to (put in wye) if AAV built in....?
>you going to put a check valve on the WM's drain hose??.....isn't that what the preventer is?....but yup.
dang......yer tough! no sympathy for my day job?
multitask...
this job has gone on for 4 days, 6 hours and approximately 40 something minutes...
you getting hourly rate here or something?? cost plus??? is the union you belong to??
geeze..
.....don't need to (put in wye) if AAV built in....?
redundency in this case won't hurt a bit.... go for it..
.....isn't that what the preventer is?....
nope.. not for the hose.. just the stand pipe...
but yup.
good.. you have a lot of lift there with as high as that hose to stand pipe is.. put it in as close to the machine outlet as you can... you'll be diong the WM's pump a favor...
it is a good thing to shorten that length (WM drain hose) up some but shortening the stand pipe isn't the way to go..
you want as least 18" or more of stand pipe.... doubt if you will get it but try..
can ya post piv of the inside condition of the galvinized pipe if you ever get there...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
uh...ohhhhh!went to replace the reducing bushing (cast iron) out of which comes the 1 1/2" galvanized pipe. bought both 3" and 4" males with bushings to reduce to 2" for the pvc. the old threaded hole is about 3 1/2".....too small for 4", too big for 3". my local plumbing supply has nothing like it, and haven't found 3 1/2" on the internet.any ideas? you would have been proud, got all the stuff figured out/bought, got my bfw on the pipe, knocking on it with the 5 lb.er and thought hmmmm, i'll check the size. woops!
View Image
if the galv is 1.5" the bushing should be 2x1.5".. if that hex is a bushing..
the nevt one up should be 3x2".. the 2 could be a 2.5"...
you could pull all of the bushings and go with reducing donut insalled to the inside of the main line's hub or use a reducing fernco to attach the PVC to the outside of the 1st reducer out of the hub....
do yurself a favor and reverify the sizes of the adaptors yur pulling...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
nope, not done yet, feel like i'm studying for an exam with this....the hex is part of the bushing from the galvanized to the right to the threads to the left in the picture....was hoping to just screw in a pvc male into that with a reducing bushing to 2"..guess if i can't do that i'll go with the reducing fernco. i'm just gonna buy every size i can and stop messin' around!and so it goes.....again, thanks.btw, happy thanksgiving
so how goes it???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
had to order the part (fernco 4x2) from the internet.....NO BODY has it in my area (red bank, nj). as soon as i get that, i'll be just about done.btw, has it been your experience that plumbing supply houses are about as helpful as HD? i went to two near me, "united supply", and when i asked for the fernco, and the AAV, they looked at me as if i was an idiot, i mean, i had the name of the part, the size(s) i needed, and everything, i took a pair of calipers and measured the pipe....etc, they were just lousy, i walked out with nothing. thank the lord that "breaktime" is here, or i'd be really in trouble. funny thing is i've worked in construction and am pretty handy, i pity those that aren't.forgive the rant, it just bugs me when "pros" pee on do it yourselfers.
so....the parts came in, started this morning about 7, tap,tap,tap.....etc for about 2 hours, looks like the threaded couple is starting to move....look further to the left, down the cast iron run, the cast iron wye is spinning in the long cast iron run.time to call the pros....?
yup
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yuo done yet???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I believe it is "Air Admittance Valve". It might help him find it. Good info!
http://www.studor.com/index2.htm
that's great, looked it up but couldn't find it......have it now.little laugh for you, went to HD and asked the "plumbing associate" for some of this stuff......should of seen the look on her face. i'm pretty sure i was speaking a different language.thanks
nother question...when going from cast iron to pvc/abs, do you just screw it in with teflon tape? or other?psyching myself up to do this gig!
Rectorseal 5 pipe dope..
it'll be used more as a lube...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yer the BEST!wanna see pix when i finish?thanks!
I or nobody here will buy into that...
we all love pics...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
forgot to add, i felt i needed a check valve in the washer line as when i turn on the pump for the slop sink....it backs up into the washer.i swear it was like this when i bought the house....just want to make it right.
DVW lines under sized or the DVW needs snaking for starters..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
everything about that hook up is wrong..
1/4" is too small for a condensate line.. needs to be 3/4..
you need an air gap in the run..
make it right and live better..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The 1/4" line does sound like the drain for a condensate pump from the furnace - do you have a high efficiency, direct vent furnace? I just had one installed, and since my basement doesn't have floor drains they had to include the pump. It's similar in function to a sump pump - the condensation from the furnace drains into a little reservoir in the pump, and periodically it pumps the water it's collected through the 1/4" drain line to a drain somewhere. In my case it goes into the laundry sink, in your case to a standpipe.
The purpose of the air gap is to prevent the possibility of wastewater backing up the drain and somehow getting back up into the device. I don't know if that's a concern for a condensate pump or not.
that's what it is
had to go back and redo that last post to you..
posted it a bit early..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!