I am in the design phase of a 2-story, 2,800 sqr ft home. New builds in my area are mostly going with 9′ walls on the 1st floor. However, my wife & I are under 6′ and feel the no need for this extra height, other than for resale. Also we would like to avoid the additional cost( lumber, longer doors, brick, cabinets) and put it in some other part of the project.
I am considering using full 96″ studs as a comprmise to get a few more inches in height. Questions: 1) does this create any additional issues that I need to consider? 2.) Is there really a cost savings over 9′? 3.) has anyone used this practice in the field with any success?
thanks for the input
Buffalo, New York
Replies
A 92 5/8" stud with a single bottom plate and double top plate is just a tick over eight feet tall which allows for the installation of two horizontal sheets of 4' drywall without ripping or putting in a thin filler strip. If you use a 96" stud you'll be over height to drywall and you'll have to add a 4" filler piece in between the two sheets. If you are hanging and taping the drywall yourself it probably is not a big deal. If you are subbing it out you will want to run it by your guy first. Drywallers hate surprises.
Would it be possible to use the filler strip at the bottem, and use a larger profile basemolding, and not require that this bottom seam be finished, saving cost?
It is possible and a very good solution as well.
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specializtion is for insects. - robert heinlen
I don't suppose the gap behind the baseboard would violate any sort of fire codes would it?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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Good point. If so,you could just fire-tape it ( tape and a single mud coat). I would think that would satisfy any code issues.
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specializtion is for insects. - robert heinlen
or 4" chair rail...lolIf Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
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Hey now thats a good idea, now if I could just remember where I put my toenails to fasten that.............. =)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specializtion is for insects. - robert heinlen
Hey now thats a good idea, now if I could just remember where I put my toenails to fasten that.............. =
~~~~~~~~~
If you'd smoke a little less you'd see them on the skyshelf...geezzz...you kidz nowa dazeIf Blodgett and Gunner say, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
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Not really......the bottom sheet will have a depressed edge of about 1.75" wide (for the pate joint). That coupled w/ your 4" filler means that the base molding will have to be about 6" tall for it to work.
Sheetrock install will be more time consuming as you'll have to order out either half the run in 54 or pc in the difference of two 48''.
Around here, 8' studs vary in length a bit-1/4-1/2'', so all the studs might have to be evened up.
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Another consideration for you - With higher cielings, the staircase will take up more room. you'll have at least one more riser. With a typical pitch, that will add ten inches to the framed openning
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But... with 9' ceilings you have a feeling of spaciousness that you do not get with 8'. Our current house has 9' ceilings, and although it's a small house the space feels great. I immediately notice when I go into a typical 8' house now. We have 6'8" doors and tall windows with the headers set a foot higher than the doors. I'll duplicate it if I build us another house.
I wasn't arguing against it. I like it and have built a couple with 9' to 9'4".
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9'4"... I guess you get 56" sheetrock!
That is up to the SR guy.Sometimes yes, but usually no
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What about heating and cooling costs, since you are adding more volume but not more square footage - that must cost at least as much as the add'l materials and labor... over time.
It is a weird feeling after spending a week at my parents Cape Cod vacation house with 7' ceilings and then coming home to my 9' ceilings - very weird.
PJ
I'd say it's too much pain for too little gain. I'm so used to my 9 ft. ceilings that 8 ft. feels like a cave to me. You're looking at about as much extra work and expense to get only a third as much extra height. Go the full 9 ft. if resale is the issue, or 8 ft. if economy wins out.
-- J.S.
I like to remind clients that apartments and habitat for humanity houses are built with 8' ceilings because they are the absolute cheapest way to go, not the best.
It's hard to get excited about 8' ceilings, even in basements.
Cheers
The trend these days is toward big open spaces. We no longer need a bunch of walls to hold up floor or roof above; TJIs and roof trusses have made wide span solutions very affordable. All those wide open spaces will look more cramped and low in 8 ft ceilings. If your planned home follows this trend, you should have a good look at the higher ceilings. I agree with the other posters who say go with either 8' or 9', not something in between.
IIRC, didn't Mike Guertin suggest skipping precuts in a recent FHB?
I've built two houses for myself - the first had 9' throughout and 27' in the big (32x20) cathedral section. It was a great house, but lacked "coziness", I think the ceiling heights were part of that.
Our recent house has 8' in all the bedrooms, and the public areas of the house have a 6/12 pitch ceiling to open things up a bit - the kitchen ceiling is still 8'. (this was easy with trusses and a 1 story house)
I agree with the poster who said big spaces and low ceilings don't mix - but I'd stay with 8' upstairs, and use 96' down stairs unless you have a "great room" or other expansive area, then 9' would be good design. Actually varying the ceiling heights downstairs would be even better design, but its two stories and we are talking saving$.
One advantage to taller studs is transom windows, which look great in big rooms wit views, but if you are looking to save $, maybe not a helpful suggestion.
Finally - since this is FINE homebuilding, and your gonna use at least 5-1/2" baseboards (right?) - You could use 8' studs, regular drywall tight to the ceiling and just rip 1/2" plywood strips for a great baseboard nailer - problem solved. Lumber saved, brick saved, same cabinets and doors as precuts would allow.
or 4" chair rail : )
If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
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