Has anyone on here built a house using 24″ O.C. framing with header hangers, sill hangers, etc…
Any pros or cons you could share with me about this method would be appreciated.
Did you use 5/8″ wall sheating to reduce defectlion between studs?? Were you able to find windows from a manufacturer that had R.O.’s to fit directly between the studs placed 24″ O.C.??
The house is built as a school project, and is picked up and moved 5 – 30 miles away. Will this type of framing be strong enough to prevent numerous sheetrock cracks, crooked door openings, etc…???
Thanks for the input.
upnorth8
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ttt
See you haven't got much on this yet, so I'll take a stab at it 'till a better answer comes along.
I don't see it collapsing, but I don't see the finishes coming through unscathed either.
I was recently reading a mag about modular building, and many of the ads related to specialty metal connectors that would allow the pre-finished modules to travel without a lot of damage.
You might look into how they do it.
I think even the modular homes need some "touch up" on arrival, though. Very tough to have materials that cannot flex (drywall, for example) take that kind of acceleration load at every stop sign.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
24"OC is becoming more common as thermal brigging issues gain more notice. With 24"OC framing, you should move directly to 2x6 wall framing for the extra stiffness. 2x4 framing in my experiance is not typically up to the task with the 2ft OC building style. If you do go with 2x4s then your exterior sheathing should be bumped up to 5/8" or better yet 3/4" and a tight nailing schedule must follow---see your local building codes or an engineer to comply with your local areas codes.
Now, as far as headers are concerned, do yourself a favor and use trimmers under your headers, I've used the header brackets/hangers and I have my reservations about their longterm durabilaty. Windows land where they land as per the home design, as with 16OC framing, 24OC is no differant, you will need to place the king studs as the design mandates.
If you want to go to the next step/level, look into SIPs(structural insulated panels). They are the wave of the future.
For moduilar comnstruction sheet goods sucjh aas drywall and exterior sheathing are glued as wel as nailed, to create a stable diaphragm that can handle movement and vibration down the road
Insulating iot with blown in place foam adds to stiffness also.
It is a waste of time trying to fit windows to the framing - you end up with ugly house and save almost nothing
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I recently built a 2x6, 24" OC addition with Simpson HH6s (HH4s on interior walls), two stud corners, and drywall clips - 1/2" rock throughout, all screwed no glue. Insulation was the new JM Spider blown-in fiberglas. I used single LVL scraps with a 2x6 bottom for all headers.
Seemed to work fine; I ordered the vinyl windows to fit between the studs, lined up the trusses and used a single top plate. Sheathed the outside with 1" blue foam; 1/2" + 1/2" OSB on the corners. Nailed the window flanges through that 1".
I posted pictures in an earlier thread somewhere . . .
Forrest