Hello All,
I am trying to get smart on single phase 240 volt circuits to help make some intelligent decisions on wiring for the basement appliances in my new house (washer, dryer, small table saw etc). Where can I go online to get good advice?
Thanks
GAB
Replies
dis be da place, but i'm not da guy. somebody with real experience will chime in sooner or later. in the meantime, try posting a more specific question or set of questions.
m
Roger that,
I guess I am so far behind the power curve I need a site that has articles on how to calculate what outlets, wire size safety etc so I can learn what I need to ask!
Thanks!
Most small applainces in the US use 110v, except for dryers which are 220. Before the days of central air, 220 outlets used to be wired for 220v window air conditioners, although most window air conditioners are 110 these says.
I haven't spent much time looking at small table saws, but the one's I've looked at were all 110.
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Washer will likely require a dedicated 120 outlet, 20A, and GFI protected (breaker $$ or outlet $) since it is in the basement.
Not sure if more than one outlet box can be on the washer circuit. Another basement item is a dehumidifier.
Dryer will likely require a 30A 240V circuit. Hard to advise on wiring since we don't know anything about your basement. It might be 10/3 Romex through the joists and behind drywall, or it might involve putting up 3/4" conduit and pulling (4) 10 ga wires.
Tablesaw should be on a 20A GFI protected circuit. If you are putting in a workshop, I'd suggest a pair of these GFI circuits, and each wired to at least a couple of 2-socket receptacles separated by 4 or 6 ft so that you don't need to use extension cords with any of your tools. You can also use the second circuit for power to a dust collector unit.
How is your lighting circuit down there? A shop with sharp tools requires good lighting. You don't want to add extra lights onto the new outlet circuits because the tool might pop the breaker and leave you in the dark.
If the table saw/ workbench area is some distance from the main service panel, it might be a good idea to put in a small sub-panel at this point. That way it is much easier to add circuits later, there is more power available to the tools (less wire loss) and you are pretty close to any popped breakers.
For more info, the creative homeowners series book on Home Electrical is a pretty good reference.
"Another basement item is a dehumidifier. "
The house is in northern Ohio and uses a boiler for heat (no central air) so I am already thinking about a dehumidifier. The basement is almost 1100 sq ft, half finished. Should I go with a couple of portable units from Home Depot or should I look for a larger single unit from a manufacturer like Lenox or Carrier? What size?
"Dryer will likely require a 30A 240V circuit. Hard to advise on wiring since we don't know anything about your basement. It might be 10/3 Romex through the joists and behind drywall, or it might involve putting up 3/4" conduit and pulling (4) 10 ga wires. "
I am sure it is Romex, with a three prong 240V plug. Should I be looking for a four prong plug (the city housing inspector did not gig the seller)?
"Tablesaw should be on a 20A GFI protected circuit. If you are putting in a workshop, I'd suggest a pair of these GFI circuits, and each wired to at least a couple of 2-socket receptacles separated by 4 or 6 ft so that you don't need to use extension cords with any of your tools. You can also use the second circuit for power to a dust collector unit. "
Thanks, this is a good idea. Where can I find a magnetic switch to prevent the saw from comming on if the power goes out?
"How is your lighting circuit down there? A shop with sharp tools requires good lighting. You don't want to add extra lights onto the new outlet circuits because the tool might pop the breaker and leave you in the dark. "
The basement is a dark hole on the side I want to put the washer and dryer plus my machines. At least the basement is dry and painted white.
I'm not a licensed electrician, but I play one from time to time.
A 220/240 VAC circuit is 2-phase, with two hot wires and one ground. 10 gauge should be enough for a dryer. I think code requires a dedicated circuit for electric dryers.
The only place the code requires 4-wire is mobile homes. I don't have my code book in front of me, and I don't remember why.
Whether a 240V circuit is 1-phase or 2-phase depends on your point of view. But in the US at least the designation is meaningless either way.
Most 240V outlets require four wires -- two hots, neutral, and ground. The code that allowed shared ground and neutral was changed about 25 years ago.
For a shop, I'd recommend installing a separate subpanel of 40-60 amp 240V capacity. That way you can add circuits as required without making it a hack job. (Just make sure that the electrician keeps his mits out of it when wiring the washer, dryer, etc, so that he doesn't use up all the capacity.)
I've been using a basic 10qt dehumidifier from Sears for the last 12 years. In Baltimore it ran continuously from April to October. Here in Oregon I have it on a timer and it runs for 3 hrs, twice a day. That is enough for it to ice up in the winter when the basement humidity is at its worst. In the summer it runs w/o icing up. This is for a 900 sq ft basement.
"I am sure it is Romex, with a three prong 240V plug. Should I be looking for a four prong plug (the city housing inspector did not gig the seller)?"
I am not sure what you mean. Is there an exisitng dryer receptacle or are you wanting to add one.
Until 1996 the NEC code allow dryers to be wired with a 3 wire system (2 hots and a NEUTRAL). However, some mobil homes and some locals required a 4 wire system earlier (2 hots, neutral, and ground).
http://www.networkcable.com/pages/components/nema_nonlocking.html
The 3 wire system used a NEMA 10-30, the 4 wire system 14-30. If there is an existing 3 wire dryer receptacle and you still want to use it then you need to get a 3 wire cord set and install the bonding jumper (case ground to neutral) on the dryer.
If you are intalling a new one or moving it then you need to go with the 4 wire system.
A washer will work with any ground outlet on a 15 or 20 amp circuit. But again if you are installing new them you need to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the laundry "room".
You do not need to use a GFCI for an receptacle that will service a infrequently moved applicane such as the washer, sump pump, frezeer, or dehumidifier.
For the table saw (if it is 3 hp) then you will want a 240, 20 amp circuit. It will use a 6-20. That is 2 hots and a ground.
Grizzly has some cheap magnetic switches.
And you might want to install some other 240 circuits for dust collector, etc.
All non-decicated 120 volt circuits in an unfinished basement need to be GFCI protected.
<Washer will likely require a dedicated 120 outlet, 20A, and GFI protected
Wouldn't put a GFI on the washer..The back emf from the relays and electric solenoid valves kick them off all the time..
Hmmm, code here is GFI for all basement 120 circuits. Have had two types of washers on it for 3 years and no problems.
That may be, but my washer ,which isnt that old kicks the gfi regularly. I did away with it, and DW is all the happier for it.. I assume the back emf from relays/soliniods fool it into droping out.